block thread for coolant plug stripped... - SailNet Community

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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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  #1  
Old 12-11-2011
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block thread for coolant plug stripped...

The thread at the bottom of the aft barrel in my MD 17C Volvo is stripped, and so the coolant plug (brand new) will not tighten into it even with the help of teflon tape.

The coolant plug is the part number 829592 on this link...

Volvo Penta MD17C Diesel Engine Parts and Spares

I think the thread is 1/8 BSPT, but I cannot be sure.

It still holds coolant pump pressure, but I am afraid that it may blow out and cause an overheat. It reallty did turn far too easily today when I was draining the coolant.

I may have to drill and re-tap for a different design plug (and I have access for that) but I wondered if I could use a locking compound or some form of adhesive in there, and hope for reliability. I have heard that "liquid metal" may work.

Thanks.

Rockter.

Last edited by Rockter; 12-11-2011 at 04:13 PM.
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Have you considered Helicoil ?
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Landmineop :

It's quite a small thread, and it's tapered. Would a heicoil work?
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You could go to their site www.helicoil.com.ag and use the "contact us" to see what they say. It's sure worth a shot. Helicoil inserts are worth their weight in gold at times. Easy to use and strong. I've never had any propblems but maybe I was just lucky. Drop them an email and find out. Only takes a couple of minutes. Good luck and let us know what they say.
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JB weld, or similar, into the old hole, wait until about half cured and screw the plug in just snug. After fully cured tighten just a little more and then safety wire if there is room. Try to dry the hole before putting the JB Weld into it. Never tried this exact application but have used JB Weld and Marine Tex on other things, it is pretty durable stuff. Not much to lose by trying it, next step could be the Heli - Coil as mentioned above.

Dabnis
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Old 12-12-2011
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Get it dry, clean with cellulose thinners, coat both hole and plug with JB weld and refit.

Let it dry for 48 hrs and refill.

Job Done.
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The correct answer to this is to drill and tap for a larger plug provided that you won't hit anything in doing so. I don't have my copy of Machinery's Handbook with me right now but I would imagine that you would completely drill out the old threads by going to a 1/4 BSPT. You shouldn't have too much trouble looking this up.

If you do drill it out, be very careful not to leave any metal shavings in your cooling system.
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Klem is correct. 1/4"x1/8" BSP reducing bushes are easy to get.
Grease up the tap which should keep most of the thread shavings out of the block. Afterwards clean the area thoroughly.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCboatrx View Post
Klem is correct. 1/4"x1/8" BSP reducing bushes are easy to get.
Grease up the tap which should keep most of the thread shavings out of the block. Afterwards clean the area thoroughly.
"most of the thread shavings"? The rest may end up going through the pump impeller? Hard to say what, if any, damage they might cause? JB Weld, as mentioned earlier, is tough stuff, maybe worth a try before drilling, if you can get a drill in there.

Dabnis
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Old 12-12-2011
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Not being able to see this, but going by "drain plug" and "under"...

I'd also vote for JBWeld. Thoroughly clean and degrease a large area around the hole, and the threads, to make sure it binds well. But since you may want to unscrew a drain plug at some point in the future, I'd go a bit further.

Either drill and tap a new smaller drain plug in the middle of the existing one, or JBWeld a plate over the area around the hole, and (again) drill and tap a new drain plug fitting into the middle of the plate.

So either way, JBWeld, but providing for a new drain plug of some type before you seal it up.
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