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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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Diesel This is a forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


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  #21  
Old 03-15-2012
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Re: How to destroy a diesel in one easy step...

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Originally Posted by Sailingking22 View Post
I should have read this forum before sailing but luckily none of that happened to me. I hear everyone and I mean everyone who sails saying change your impeller. I changed mine and the new one sucked.....so I took it apart again and but the old one back in. Works like a charm. Plus, they work fine even with tabs broken so I don't see the huge emphasis here. When the engine overheats....change it. I don't have a temp sensor on my YSM 12 but it shuts off automatically when it gets too hot. This is usually, when I leave the seacock closed or the mixing elbow on the exhaust gets clogged/blocked which seems to happen about every 24 hrs of run time. I hear everyone praising the Yanmar engines but I've never had more trouble with an engine. The one thing I would praise is I've been able to fix everything....pretty easy to work on. Well almost....currently I'm mounting a little 8 hp evinrude to the transom...not sure whats wrong with the Yanmar now. Won't spin. Probably water in the chamber which .... rebuild or replace with something better. It's on a Hunter 30 and only ran 4.5 knots. I'd love to get something that'll get me 6.0 knots.
I guess you're not kidding here. Running your engine until it cuts out from overheat and using that as your impeller wear indicator is just a bad idea. Probably not good for the engine, but also, this event might just happen at the worst possible time--when you really need your engine. There are lots of sailboat parts that give nice obvious indicators when they've failed, but best not to go there.
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  #22  
Old 03-15-2012
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Re: How to destroy a diesel in one easy step...

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Originally Posted by erps View Post
put off dealing with a worn cutlass bearing, which leads to excessive engine vibration, which leads to a ten pound alternator shaking back and forth, which leads to the timing chain cover breaking open where the alternator bolts on.
Sounds like an old Universal diesel with the old alternator bracket?
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  #23  
Old 03-15-2012
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Re: How to destroy a diesel in one easy step...

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Sounds like an old Universal diesel with the old alternator bracket
It was a little Kubota 2 cyl (Westerbeke). We sailed it into Bellingham, where I mocked up a new alternator bracket out of cardboard, took it to a local machine shop and they had a new replacement bracket cut out in about a half hour. Then I marinetexed the the timing belt cover back together and ran her that way for another four years.
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  #24  
Old 03-16-2012
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Re: How to destroy a diesel in one easy step...

Another sure-fire way to make mechanics rich is to have a leak in your fresh water cooling system, let the engine boil over, then shut it down and add cold water. If it doesn't crack the block it will at least warp the head.
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Old 03-16-2012
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Re: How to destroy a diesel in one easy step...

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Originally Posted by donradclife View Post
Another sure-fire way to make mechanics rich is to have a leak in your fresh water cooling system.
How do you take leak in your....ooops sorry wrong forum
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  #26  
Old 03-20-2012
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Re: How to destroy a diesel in one easy step...

Being that this is my field i can say with out a pause that the number #1 killer of Diesel engine is... Water...
Water in to an intake acts like ball bearings and does not compress everything around it will, rods get shorter, piston ring lands get smaller etc. Water from the fuel system is the most common the second is the air intake system.
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Old 03-20-2012
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Re: How to destroy a diesel in one easy step...

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Originally Posted by donradclife View Post
Another sure-fire way to make mechanics rich is to have a leak in your fresh water cooling system, let the engine boil over, then shut it down and add cold water. If it doesn't crack the block it will at least warp the head.
Actually, cold water in a hot engine gets steamed off. The water becomes steam and forces the engine to hyper contract which causes cracks. Diesels are not as prone to cracking as gas engine due the heavy construction of the components. They will survive it, i have seen it happen more times than a failure. The best thing to do is allow it to cool then run water slowly and check for damage. Engine with liners are the most prone to damage as the high heat crystallizes the o rings that seal the liners. Then water just fill's the crank case.
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Old 03-22-2012
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Re: How to destroy a diesel in one easy step...

I'm guessing you speak from experience. If I wasn't getting water flow I would change it again, but I'll start the motor.....verify water is flowing heavily out the exhaust and moving through the clear tube after my impeller. The old crappy one moves it just fine....the new one jams or doesn't quite fit in right even though it looks the same and was the part # according to the engine so I put the old one back in. When the engine has overheated (4x since I've owned) it shuts down on it's own...but I've run this baby for stretches of 40 + hrs straight. During those 4 shut downs what kind of damage are we talking? All 4x it started back up within 30 min no problem and the problem every time was clogged mixing elbow.
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Old 03-22-2012
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Re: How to destroy a diesel in one easy step...

Clogged with what? Maybe a major rethink regarding the whole cooling system is in order. 5thx at the breakwater waiting 30 min as the hull grinds could by a reality. Meanwhile I'd be wondering 'Did I glaze or score the cylinders or damage the rings.?'
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Old 03-26-2012
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Re: How to destroy a diesel in one easy step...

Capt Len - Clogged with a carbon build up of salt water (Yanmar Engine is Salt-Water Cooled) and carbon. It blocks very easily in the mixing elbow and seems to be a common problem from reading the other threads and forums. When I clean it I basically punch it out with a screwdriver and coat hanger to clear the entire mixing elbow. Then she runs clean and smooth until the next clog.
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