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post #1 of 12 Old 04-02-2012 Thread Starter
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Universal Engine Mounts

I have a 2 cylinder Universal engine in my 84 Newport 28 MKII with 3 engine mounts. I recently noticed that the right side of the engine has dropped 0.25 inches based on the alternator housing rubbing the plywood enclosure that once cleared. There is still 0.150 inches between the engine mount frame and the washer with visible rubber between. I have pictures of the engine mounts (Upload of file failed). Can any one tell me if this drop in normal over time? If I readjust the right mount how do I assure the prop shaft alignment is still OK?
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post #2 of 12 Old 04-02-2012
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Re: Universal Engine Mounts

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Originally Posted by Donaldpeter View Post
I have a 2 cylinder Universal engine in my 84 Newport 28 MKII with 3 engine mounts. I recently noticed that the right side of the engine has dropped 0.25 inches based on the alternator housing rubbing the plywood enclosure that once cleared. There is still 0.150 inches between the engine mount frame and the washer with visible rubber between. I have pictures of the engine mounts (Upload of file failed). Can any one tell me if this drop in normal over time? If I readjust the right mount how do I assure the prop shaft alignment is still OK?
Firstly, is is NOT normal and must be corrected. You have to disconnect your shaft coupling first - there could be heavy side loading on it which can wreck the shaft, stuffing box and cutless bearing.

Once you've done that you can sort out the mount problem - without pictures I'm guessing but it sounds like the lower adjusting nut has slacked way off and allowed the mount to drop.

Describing how to align a shaft in words is very difficult - I suggest you do some research and find some illustrations on how to do it.

It requires very precise adjustments - in the range of .005" runout around the circumference of the coupling.

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post #3 of 12 Old 04-02-2012
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Re: Universal Engine Mounts

Ditto what SloopJonB says. Tolerances on engine-shaft alignment are way smaller than 1/4" But how does an engine only have 3 mounts? 2 on one side, 1 on the other?

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post #4 of 12 Old 04-02-2012
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Re: Universal Engine Mounts

Universal 5416 would be the most likely model. unless it's a newer m-18 (i think) I have 3 mounts on mine. one under the crankshaft damper pulley and one on each side of the engine by the bell housing.

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post #5 of 12 Old 04-02-2012
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Re: Universal Engine Mounts

3 point mounting has been the standard on rear wheel drive cars for decades - one on each side near the front of the engine and one on the transmission. The reverse of the setup Denise describes.

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Last edited by SloopJonB; 04-18-2012 at 02:30 AM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-02-2012
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Re: Universal Engine Mounts

DonaldPeter :

If the other two engine mount nuts are unaltered, then simply jack the rogue mount back up to where it was. If you know it has dropped 1/4", then raise it by 1/4" to where it was.

Put your gearbox into neutral and see how free the tailshaft is before, during and after you have made the adjustment. You may find that when you have finished that the tailshaft turns a little more freely (perhaps not though, but watch for it).

I have had engine mounts slack off on me before. As long as it is just one of them, I have just jacked them back to where they were. I watch the rubber elements carefully though. If one of those collapses, then I have to replace it and go through the full re-alignment procedure. It is not particularly difficult... you take your final drive coupling off and offer up the final drive coupling to the gearbox. It is a near-perfect fit. Then you run a feeler guage round it to try to make the alignment very close by jacking the engine mounts up or down. It takes a wee while, perhaps a morning, but it is a bit of a laugh with another person to help you.

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post #7 of 12 Old 04-18-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Universal Engine Mounts

Thanks for the good ideas. With the gear box in neutral I was able to raise the engine up 1/4 inch on one side by rotating the port mount nut while rotating the prop shaft. There was a spot where the prop shaft rotated freely. BTW the engine is a Universal (Kubota Z-500 block) antifreeze cooled. Not sure if this make it a 5411 with a heat exchanger added or a M-15. No sure how to tell.
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post #8 of 12 Old 04-18-2012
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Re: Universal Engine Mounts

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Originally Posted by Donaldpeter View Post
Thanks for the good ideas. With the gear box in neutral I was able to raise the engine up 1/4 inch on one side by rotating the port mount nut while rotating the prop shaft. There was a spot where the prop shaft rotated freely. BTW the engine is a Universal (Kubota Z-500 block) antifreeze cooled. Not sure if this make it a 5411 with a heat exchanger added or a M-15. No sure how to tell.
Sounds like you got it close but you really need to disconnect the coupling and use a feeler gauge between the coupler faces while you rotate the shaft to check for runout. Simply removing the gross binding caused by the mount problem isn't enough. Leaving it as is risks your shaft, shaft log, strut and even your transmission.

You can set an engines timing "sort of" by just twisting the distributor but you have to use a timing light to get it accurate and avoid burned valves and pistons - much the same idea.

This is a case where "close" just ain't good enough.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-20-2012
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Re: Universal Engine Mounts

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Not sure if this make it a 5411 with a heat exchanger added or a M-15. No sure how to tell.
Universal 5432 & M40 engine information

scroll down, there's a chart.

also try Marine Diesel Engines and Engine Parts - Universal, Volvo, Westerbeke, Yanmar, MASE

Stu Jackson, C34, 1986, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-21-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Universal Engine Mounts

Thanks Jon, I agree I need to fine tune the adjustment I made. Also I plan to use WD-40 and let these screws sit for 15 minutes before I try to unscrew. Is this considered OK practice for rusted screws on a boat? Do you know where I find the proper assembly torque for the upper 3 nuts on the engine mounts, the 4 screws on the coupling, and the single lock down coupling screw. Also I assume for assembly proper torque is used without loctite.
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