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post #1 of 11 Old 05-24-2012 Thread Starter
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Newbie needs help, m18 universal

Hi,

Short history: Bought the boat last year and didn't realize the engine overheating at the time. First trip engine overheating over 200, took it back to marina, mechanic changes thermostat.

Try #2, results in same type of overheating. Bring the boat back, the mechanic (with us not present) realized that the boat has hot water heater and over flow tank, adds coolant, says boat ready to go. We take it to our 8 hour trip to our harbor and it is overheating at anything about 1500 rpm, but we make it and use the boat for about 2 months.

winterize ( no oil change)

This year we changed impeller with two broken tooth blocking the passage way, thinking it will fix a problem and it didn't
After our 8 hour trip to harbor we couldn't go more then 1800 rpm.

Today (after searching internet) we bleeder the coolant system as much as we can, it started to run smoother in idle. We put her in gear, and 2 min later she is at 195(max range) the oil lamp goes on and off and on and off, we bring boat back, and look at the oil dip stick level and its at very low. We put it back again and it says it has double the oil level. Several tries later, as engine cools down it indicates that oil is double the level it should be.

Could too much oil be the problem? Did we destroy the engine, oil pump? We plan to change the oil tomorrow and try this again, but I wonder if marina upon selling us the boat didn't properly get her ready for spring and didn't drain any extra oil they put in her? And could the extra oil cause overheating?
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post #2 of 11 Old 05-25-2012
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Re: Newbie needs help, m18 universal

I would guess the overheating and oil issues are not related. Getting an accurate reading on the oil level can be tricky on some engines. I would just remove the oil and then put in the proper amount so you know what you have.

Do you have a good flow of raw water out the exhaust? Since you found broke pump vanes, blockage in the raw water circuit would be where I would look first. Sounds like you have some cooling as you can run at lower power.
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post #3 of 11 Old 05-25-2012
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What color is the oil? Perhaps a defective head gasket or hydrolock has added water to the crankcase. If the oil level was correct before you started the engine and overfilled upon return and there are no engine room gremlins aboard; the the added level has to be a fluid of some type. A blown head gasket reflects all your woes.
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-25-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie needs help, m18 universal

The oil is pure black. I have some cooling at around 1500 rpm, and when droped into neutral it cools really well. When i found the two broken teeth from impeller, they were right there blocking the pessage way, and we matched them and they matched, so i do not think there is anything from previous impeller that is blocking the way, ofcourse there could be something there from the time before.

We did a temp test and water coming into heat exchanger at around 60 and coming out at around 70, so maybe the heat exchanger is the issue.
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-25-2012
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Re: Newbie needs help, m18 universal

Air in the hot water heater heat exchanger would cause "mysterious" overheating. It needs to be "burped"
The engine oil will turn black minutes after an oil change too. (typical for diesels)

Your engine heat exchanger can be a culprit in all this too. "stuff" can grow in there and as you found out impeller parts can travel.

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post #6 of 11 Old 05-25-2012
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Re: Newbie needs help, m18 universal

I like Denise's suggestions. I think I'd start over:
1. Check the heat exchanger--you got your impeller parts out OK, but other stuff may be in there.
2. Refill coolant with proper mixture--maybe someone put 100% antifreeze in there, which doesn't cool as well.
3. Burp the coolant to get any bubbles out--I think you can do this by running the engine with the coolant cap loose.
4. Might be worth checking to make sure your propeller isn't fouled--that would make the engine work harder.

You've gotten a chance to learn a valuable lesson: don't trust the marina, or if you want to trust them, trust but verify. It's always a good idea to check the oil before you go out, but you definitely check after someone else has been involved.

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Re: Newbie needs help, m18 universal

If I do have a blown gasket or cracked block, and water indeed is entering and mixing with oil, what color would the oil be? I plan on doing an oil change tomorrow, would like to know how oil mixed with water looks.

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post #8 of 11 Old 05-25-2012
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Re: Newbie needs help, m18 universal

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If I do have a blown gasket or cracked block, and water indeed is entering and mixing with oil, what color would the oil be? I plan on doing an oil change tomorrow, would like to know how oil mixed with water looks.

Thanks
The oil will look gray if water is present. Since you state it's black, you should be fine.
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post #9 of 11 Old 05-25-2012
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Re: Newbie needs help, m18 universal

Engines with HW heaters in the circuit can be notoriously difficult to re-establish proper coolant circulation flow.. Ilike the idea of running with the cap off for a time, monitoring the level as you do so (dropping level means you're evacuating air)

Just because you found all the impeller bits THIS TIME doesn't mean there aren't trapped bits from another time.. also growth and scaling could be your culprit as well. Flushing the H/E is a good idea in any event.

Doesn't sound like a leakage issue (ie coolant to engine sump) but you may well be looking at several compounding problems...

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Re: Newbie needs help, m18 universal

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Originally Posted by zerologic View Post
If I do have a blown gasket or cracked block, and water indeed is entering and mixing with oil, what color would the oil be? I plan on doing an oil change tomorrow, would like to know how oil mixed with water looks.
Water in the oil is grey, but if the gaskets blown on the low side you'll have oil in the water.
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