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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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Old 11-03-2012
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winterizing yanmar 2gm raw water

So my first crack at winterizing and just want to make sure that I covered the basis! Here is what I did:[LIST]

- drained engine block of cooling water from valve
- pulled thermostat out (once I found it)
-pulled water intake hose and replace with a temporary hose which I inserted in a pail of antifreeze
-ran engine till it was pumping pink out the back
-opened engine block drain valve to make sure it drained pink which it was. - - tightened valve
- ran engine a little more to replace what little drained out of engine block. - - - turned engine off
- poured a couple tablespoons of oil into oil fill while hand cranking engine
- sprayed engine with wd40
- sat down to think about what I might have forgotten to do
- couldn't think of anything, so closed up boat and went home.

So, anything I missed or messed up?
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Old 11-03-2012
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Re: winterizing yanmar 2gm raw water

Remove impeller.
Before all of that, change oil and filter.
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Old 11-04-2012
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Re: winterizing yanmar 2gm raw water

I'm planning on winterizing my 1gm10 today so the timing of this thread is good.

Here is Don Casey's list (consolidated)
-Drain/Replace coolant with antifreeze
-Replace oil and oil filters (old oil is a bit corrosive and left for a long time will attack the bearings)
-Replace fuel filters
-Bleed fuel system, run engine and top off oil an coolant
-Remove impellar, Backflush/clean raw water system
-Drain raw water system
-Fully charge batteries. Remove if possible
-Treat battery and cable with grease to prevent corrosion. Spray engine with corrosion inhibor
-Cover the engine to protect from leaks from above

So I think the biggest thing you missed was the oil change. Unfortunately that means running the engine again which would mean replacing the anti-freeze.

EDIT: Also as jsaronson says the impellar is a good one to do every year or every other year. I'll try to get it done today although I've always found it to be a pain - but it's failed on me once before.

Also what about zinks and transmission fluid? If you don't know when the air filter was last done that's a quick one too.

Last edited by asdf38; 11-04-2012 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 11-04-2012
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Re: winterizing yanmar 2gm raw water

many thanks - actually I did replace the oil just prior to "take out" so have that angle covered! I had a mechanic do it last year and my intent was to watch him do it so I could then do it myself. The problem is he turned out be as wide around as he was tall and his girth totally blocked my view!
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Old 11-05-2012
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Re: winterizing yanmar 2gm raw water

I was successful yesterday with my winterizing. Two things are a huge pain, pouring in oil and replacing the zink.

Next year I'm going to be better equipped with various containers for measuring and pouring the oil. It will be a lot easier to measure it out so I know how much I've put in and don't constantly have to recheck the dipstick.

Same thing with the tranny oil, I didn't measure so I had to keep stopping. Also I forgot at first that you measure the tyranny oil with the dipstick UNscrewed.

The zink just isn't ever going to be easy where it's tucked behind the starter motor with the temp alarm wiring and engine control cable running past the area. I used butyl tape to stick the screw into a socket which gave me a better handle for manuvring it in place.

Also nodders, you shouldn't have to refill with anti-freeze. The only bad thing is for the engine to remain full of water, if it's either replaced with anti-freeze or empty that's ok. Personally, I'm going to try to drain the block of the remaining anti-freeze next time I'm there. It will also hedge against any water remaining in the block. You removed the thermostat which is the best thing to do but I used an alternative method for the last gallon or so - pinch the bypass hose. In theory this also forces all cooling fluid through the block and ensures the anti-freeze gets in there.

Also note that some people say leaving the impeller soaked in anti-freeze wears it out. I think if you just let the anti-freeze drain from the pump it should be ok. Since I'm going to replace it anyway I'm going to remove it now and then replace it with a new one in the spring.
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