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Diesel This is a new forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


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  #121  
Old 03-22-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

I can't wait!
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  #122  
Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Chapter 15: Now, Where Were We?

Oh, yeah…

After a couple of random postings, here’s a more complete recap of what’s happened since our last full installment.

After getting the block primed, I started top coating. The paint I’m using is Eastwood Engine Paint (GM blue), which the guy at the machine shop recommended. After looking at several favorable reviews online, I decided to give it a try.

I started by applying a test coat on a few smaller pieces by brush, just to see what I was dealing with. The first try went on full strength right out of the can. It covered well, but obviously needed a little thinning to flow out – mental note recorded. The next couple of coats went on thinned a little, and it flowed out well.

I got a warm afternoon a couple of weekends ago, and I set up the back yard for spraying operations. Lots of little bits of wire were cut to hang parts off of, and once everything was masked and on a hanger, I went down the line cleaning each part with brake cleaner one final time. Instead of maneuvering the air compressor through the house to spray with a full sized spray gun, I decided to go the easy route and use a Preval sprayer. I found that I needed to thin the paint considerably to get it to spray even with the strainer removed from the pick up tube – the first coat still came out a little lumpy. By the time I’d gone from end to end it was time to start all over again. Three coats done, and I let it dry for about 2 hrs before I moved it all back into the garage.

By the time I got around to the block, I decided to forego the spray job and just brush on the paint. This worked out OK. The good thing about still having the engine on the stand was that I was able to rotate it 360* to keep from trying to paint “up” and into poorly lighted areas. Again, three coats and she was done.

After the paint set for a couple of days, I started dry fitting all of the pieces together. I wanted to make sure I had all the parts and fasteners, and I wanted to double check that I was putting the thing back together in the proper sequence to keep from having to backtrack after the glue was already in place. I also wanted to dial in the alignment of the alternator bracket to the crank pulley and the water pump pulley.

I took the time to replace all the rubber seals on the fuel lines at the lift pump and secondary filter. I don’t know when they were last replaced, but it’s a safe bet that it’s been a long while. Now that all diesel is ultra-low sulphur, I want to start fresh with un-swelled seals.

Now, some of the gaskets on this thing shouldn’t have to be undone before the next major overhaul (which may never happen.) All of those got Permatex Aviation gasket sealant. A few, like the those for the thermostat, the intake manifold and both water pumps, have a stronger likelihood of needing to come off. For those, I used Permatex #1 on the permanent side, and Hylomar on the other. The Hylomar is kind of like an automotive equivalent of Post-it-Note adhesive – sticks when it’s supposed to, but comes loose when you want it to.

Here's the intake manifold



There are three cork gaskets on the upper engine – the valve cover, the timing cover and the tappet cover. I used Aviation on one side of these (tappet cover gasket to the block, and directly to the valve and timing cover). I’ll use wheel bearing grease on the other side.

Of course, the results will be revealed only when I actually get the gal running and I can check for leaks.

Here’s an upgrade that I’ve been wanting to do ever since I first had to adjust the belt tension. The original design for the alternator adjusting arm on this engine is a steel bracket. In order to make any adjustment, you had to loosen bolts on both the engine front plate and the alternator. Now, that’s much easier said than done. You have to maneuver wrenches around a coolant crossover pipe to get at both sides of the engine bolt, and you have to come at the alternator bolt from the back end of the case, past the two positive battery feeds – all while laying over the top of the engine. All in all, a royal PITA.

Here’s my solution.



Here’s a shot of the back side to give you an idea of what the problem was…



I ordered a couple of 5/16” rod ends and a turnbuckle body from McMaster. I did have to trim a little off of threaded end of the rod ends, but only about 1/16”. I will have to unbolt the engine end to install/replace the belt, but not to adjust it – I’m already happier!

I erected the gallows and pulled the engine off of the stand this morning. The back of the engine needs to get put together, and that can’t be done on the stand.



Now, after consulting my parts manual I saw that there needs to be a gasket between the block and the end plate (pretty obvious now that I think about it.) Of course, the rebuild kit didn’t have one in it so I’ll need to order one tomorrow. Kind of regret not figuring that one out a couple of weeks ago…

Another interesting discovery as I was dry fitting the back end – the rear main seal housing will NOT go on while the back plate is in place. I was kind of on the fence about getting one of the “high speed, low drag” improved seals before today; after making this discovery, I will make the extra investment. Pulling the end plate while the engine is in the boat is just gonna be too much work. You’ll see why when the back plate, flywheel, bell housing chapter gets posted…

Here’s the Jabsco raw water pump. Rebuild was straight forward, and thanks to MaineSail’s instructions unsurprising. I’ll hang the pump on the timing cover after I get the timing set, which will need to wait until the injector pump comes home from school. I’ll dedicate an separate installment for that, since it’s a bit more involved than just wrenching down a couple of bolts.

After cleaning:



After paint (one more coat to go…)



Hope this keeps you happy for few days
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Last edited by PorFin; 03-24-2013 at 11:21 PM.
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  #123  
Old 03-25-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Nice upgrade on the alternator tensioner!

One question though.... Now that you've done all this beautiful work, are you ever going to sail again, or are you a motor-boater now?

Medsailor
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  #124  
Old 03-26-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Dear PorFin.

What a great post, and more timely than you can even think !!

I am planning the rebuilt of my 4.108 next fall, and will be ordering some of the rebuilt kit over the next few months. Mine still runs fine, but it has 5000 hours (1989) and is a little dirty and messy. Why rebuilt for just that ? Well, like so many of us, I am planning a circumnavigation starting spring 2014 and would rather have a "new" iron genny than and old clunker. My boat is in Martinique at the moment and I will need to bring with me most (if not all) the bits and parts required for the rebuilt as the cost of supplies out there is outrageous. I might even decide to sail to Florida to do this rebuilt, just in case (my brother lives near Tampa).

I did contemplate re-powering, but I don't think a new Yanmar would be as reliable as a 25 years old Perkins !

So I am eagerly waiting for the moment you start this engine !!!

If you can share with us the breakdown of cost for the project and maybe those nice spreadsheets you have designed!

If you can also share the source of the parts you bought (I see that some of it is mentioned in the posts) that could be useful.

Another solution might be for me to sail to your area, and give you another project !!

I love the red paint inside the engine. The whole thing looks really good.

Keep up the good work!

Jacques
Montréal, Canada / Marin, Martinique
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  #125  
Old 03-26-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

I'm probably stating the obvious, but in looking for a Before & After of your project I remembered this;
Quote:
We also were getting a pretty noticeable exhaust stain on the stern, which didn't indicate good things...
Quote:
Originally Posted by PorFin View Post
So, some good news...

I dropped off the injector pump at Arundel Diesel & Performance for a check-up. Before I left I asked them to check the static timing marks -- about 15 seconds later they said that it was off by about a 1/4" (which pretty much confirms my earlier suspicions.)
It seems that this is the explanation.

You need to post an after shot of the reassembled engine on that oil covered pallet.
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  #126  
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Looking at how thorough the guy is, the pallet will be repainted as well, so no more oil ;-)
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

By the way, if any of you owners of this venerable Perkins 4-108 are in need for a "Brand new", never installed Bowman heat exchanger (as pictures in the diagram) I have bought one thinking mine was shut, while a good cleaning revived it and it is good for another 20 years! The boat was in the Caribbean so I did not attempt dismantling the thing without a spare on hand.

It is complete, with the 2 rubber elbows at both ends.

I paid 900$ direct from England (plus shipping and taxes). Going for 750$ plus shipping. This is NEW, not used and cleaned, or refurbished. Spanking new !

Jacques
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  #128  
Old 03-26-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques-Andre View Post
By the way, if any of you owners of this venerable Perkins 4-108 are in need for a "Brand new", never installed Bowman heat exchanger (as pictures in the diagram) I have bought one thinking mine was shut, while a good cleaning revived it and it is good for another 20 years! The boat was in the Caribbean so I did not attempt dismantling the thing without a spare on hand.

It is complete, with the 2 rubber elbows at both ends.

I paid 900$ direct from England (plus shipping and taxes). Going for 750$ plus shipping. This is NEW, not used and cleaned, or refurbished. Spanking new !

Jacques
I had the exchanger on my 4107 redone by a radiator shop. I simply took the rubber caps off and took the "bundle" (the core that looks like the barrel of a Gatling gun) to the shop. They hot tanked it to get the gelled coolant off and it was good to go - no soldering or rebuilding required. Complete with new end caps it cost under $200. I doubt the tanks ever wear out so why buy a new one?
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Lucky your "core" was still good. I heard that some people have theirs so corroded they need replacing. It was the same price to buy the whole assembly from the UK than to buy the "core" and the 2 rubber caps! That's why I did this. On top of this, my "drain plug" was totally blocked and I feared the worse. In the end I managed to clear it.

So I am not sure that a new one is such a bad idea for some of us! Well I hope so or else I have a very expensive paper weight on hand ;-)
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Old 03-26-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques-Andre View Post
Looking at how thorough the guy is, the pallet will be repainted as well, so no more oil ;-)
I'm going to a few extremes on this, but even that seems a little too far to me
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