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Diesel This is a new forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


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  #41  
Old 01-03-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
I'd suggest putting up a list of current replacement engines with their prices on the wall of your shop. Whenever you get some sticker shock on parts prices for your rebuild, just have a look at the list. Don't forget to add a boat buck or three to cover the incidentals for a swap to any of them.
Yeah -- I know, but then I ran across this...

e-bay Link

$3,250; <500 hrs; off a fresh water boat; includes txm; includes 165 amp alternator and beefed up belt/pulley;

Why does Homer Simpson come to mind?

Last edited by PorFin; 01-04-2013 at 11:25 PM.
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  #42  
Old 01-03-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Originally Posted by PorFin View Post
Yeah -- I know, but then I ran across this...




$3,250; <500 hrs; off a fresh water boat; includes txm; includes 165 amp alternator and beefed up belt/pulley;

Why does Homer Simpson come to mind?
OUCH...that's gotta hurt a bit...
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  #43  
Old 01-03-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

That is a rare deal but don't forget - it's in Canada so it'll cost you MORE when the exchange rate is figured in.
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  #44  
Old 01-04-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Chapter 6: Anybody Got a Tourniquet?

As I posted last time, the overhaul kit was just the first significant wound in what I hope will not become a death by a thousand cuts.

The next major investment is my seeming adoption of the machine shop. I dropped off the head and block to have work done that there's just no way for me to do properly in my one-car garage.

o Hot tank and magnaflux both the block and the head.
o Pressure test the head.
o Replace valve guides.
o Face valve seats.
o Remove and replace cylinder liners.
o Bead blast the timing cover and engine mounting brackets.

Now mind you, I didn't just pick this machine shop after a random check of the Yellow Pages; they were recommended to me by several fairly knowledgeable gear-heads. Since I haven't had any major engine machine work done is a couple of decades, I guess I was ill prepared for just how much it was going to bite into my wallet. Getting the head work done is going to run about $150, and they are going to go ahead and include lapping in the new valves and reassembly of the head.

So far, I'm happy.

Removal and replacement the cylinder liners? About $750. I almost choked at that one (OK, not quite true... I did choke at that one.) What, you would be asking, does that include? Well, a little more than just R & R of the liners. The machinist is going to also have to fabricate a couple of things to do the job right. First off, he's got to make a plate to drive the liner out. Then he's got to fabricate a plate that will drive the new liner in, but stop while leaving the top of the liner 0.025" proud of the deck (which the guys who installed the last liners failed to do properly.) Once that's done, they will finish hone the cylinder to 3.125", and double check to make sure that the valve to piston head clearance is right. After that, another trip to the hot tank tank.

I'll post pics once those parts come back.

Of course, I wouldn't be in such a foul mood if this were the only setback.

Here's something I missed on first inspection. That's my crank pulley, and yes that's a crack right through at the edge of the keyway. No way that's going back on with much hope of survival. TAD's got one for about $380; there's a retailer in the UK that has a new one for GBP 60 -- I think I'll do my part to stimulate the UK economy as well as the US (just call me an internationalist )



Here's what the rocker assembly looks like assembled. A little wear on the tips, but otherwise looks pretty good.







And here's what the shaft looks like after I finally managed to get the thing disassembled. Why the struggle? I'm guessing someone too cheap to invest in a torque wrench cranked the crap out of the mounting bolts at some point, and really REALLY compressed the pedestals onto the shaft.







I think we may have found suspect #2 in our search for the top end oil leak.

My initial (naive, it turns out) thought was "OK, just replace the shaft & arm bushings, easy peasy..." As Lee Corso would say "not so fast!"

I've been searching high and low for a replacement shaft. TAD's got a reconditioned shaft for $350. I've widened my search into the other equipment with 4.108's installed; it turns out that Massey-Ferguson, New Holland, Bobcat, and Gehl all built skidsteers with the 4.108. BTW: The M-F 811 parts manual is better than the Perkins one -- the diagrams are better, the parts descriptions are usually more detailed (including fastener sizes & thread types), and is has both M-F and Perkins parts numbers. Of course, the industrial 4.108 build excludes the marine raw water cooling adaptations, but it's still a good resource to have.

After a ton of time on the internet, I found a company in CA that will rebuild the entire assembly for $187. This will include a replacement hard chrome plated shaft, new bushings, reface arm tips, reassemble, and ship back ready to bolt back on the head in about a week. We'll see how that goes -- I'll post results once it gets back.

Next Up: (Depends on what I wind up doing this weekend...)
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  #45  
Old 01-06-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Chapter 7: Cosmetology & Elective Surgery

Well, with the head and block away at the machine shop, I can turn my attention to the more mundane tasks.

If you recall, I was thinking about replacing my timing cover since it's been victimized in a hostile work environment.

Here are a couple of pics of the damage. You can clearly see where the oblong washers sat under the nuts, and the areas around them that have been pitted by rust. After bead blasting, I'm not too concerned about further decay, but paint ain't gonna cover these acne scars...







So, being a cheap (er, miserly) guy, I decided to do what any shade tree mechanic would do: The next best thing. Instead of the ~ $300 for a new cover, I spent ~$5 for some JB Weld.

After cleaning the bejeebers out of the pitted areas, I gave them a skim coat of the JB Weld.





Let it dry overnight, then faired it this AM. Once again, the Fein MultiMaster came in really handy. Getting that radius from the edge to the pan was a chore, since it was hand work all the way.







Stay tuned for end results after I start painting...

Speaking of which, prep for painting is also starting in earnest.

Here's the valve cover. After stripping off the old cork gasket and digging all the sealant out, I took a little time to go back and true up the rim a little bit. Nothing radical, just took an adjustable wrench and did a little controlled bending, then sighting along the flats to check that it was all more or less copacetic. After straightening, I began the drudgery of feathering out all of the chips in the existing paint. Again, all done by hand.



Next patient on the table was the lift pump.





I took a toothbrush and Spray-Nine to it, and the paint was flaking off like a bad case of dandruff. The body of the pump (like many of the components on this engine) is made of aluminum, and when they painted this the first time, they just used standard red primer.

After I got it fairly clean, I disassembled it (sorry, no pics) to check the diaphragm. It looked almost new. I put it back together and then began getting all that old paint off. I could have used the soda blaster on it, but decided not to deal with the compressor noise. Instead, it was old school -- dental tools, marking knife, and brake cleaner for the body; and wire wheel for the steel fuel lines.

Here it is mostly clean. There are still a few specks of paint there that I'll have to get off before painting.





Next Up: A Woodworker's Approach to Engine Repair
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  #46  
Old 01-06-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

PorF, this is great! Thanks for all the effort you are putting in.
It's motivating me to get to work on some winter projects here. Thanks for the inspiration.
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  #47  
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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PorF, this is great! Thanks for all the effort you are putting in.
It's motivating me to get to work on some winter projects here. Thanks for the inspiration.
Inspired?! I am exhausted by your work, PorFin, but also in awe. Nice work on that timing cover! Appreciate the looksee into your project. I couldn't help but think that if my wife ever saw me with our engine in pieces like that, she'd never trust it again.
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  #48  
Old 01-07-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Using JB Weld as engine Bondo was a stroke of brilliance.

Let the aluminium parts soak overnight in Spray Nine - they'll come out almost spotless. Spritz them thoroughly wet and put them in a zip lock freezer bag.
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Wow. Porfin, I stand in awe of your work! Meticulous and detailed.
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  #50  
Old 01-07-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Thanks for convincing me that I should never try this!
erps, davidpm and MedSailor like this.
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