Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative - Page 7 - SailNet Community

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Diesel This is a new forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


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  #61  
Old 01-15-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Originally Posted by Tallswede View Post
Porfin, I haven't heard any talk of valve stem seals. Does this engine use them? In my experience leaking valve stem seals can cause the mess you had, especially the coating on the valves and oil in the exhaust.

Kevin
Kevin,

As originally designed, the intake valves have o-rings that fit into grooves on the valve stem just below the retainers. The exhaust valves have no seals.

The overhaul kit I purchased came with umbrella seals for all eight valves.
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  #62  
Old 01-15-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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PorFin - another tip on painting the engine - don't paint it Perkins blue, do it white instead. It shows up leaks right way and makes them easy to trace. It also brightens up the engine compartment which I presume is the usual gloomy hole.

See the before & after of my last engine.
Nice job, SJB. The white is very tempting; no doubt my practical side will be struggling with my traditional side
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  #63  
Old 01-16-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

I think my traditional side would win on that one.
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Old 01-16-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Originally Posted by PorFin View Post
Kevin,

As originally designed, the intake valves have o-rings that fit into grooves on the valve stem just below the retainers. The exhaust valves have no seals.

The overhaul kit I purchased came with umbrella seals for all eight valves.
I've had good luck with the umbrella type seals, much better than the O-ring type. 'Course my experience is all automotive not marine diesel. Thank for sharing with us in this thread, we'll be learning alot through your experience.

Kevin
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Chapter 9: An Engine Family Reunion

Some of you may have been intrigued by the title of the chapter I promised earlier. OK, so shoot me -- things change... (but I will use that title for a forthcoming chapter.)

So here's a quick show-and-tell of the stuff that's now back from the machine shop.

Head:











Block:





Some may have noticed a gray residue on the surface; that's all gotta come off before painting. If I had a pressure washer, I'd be in a lot better shape than I am now. I spent several hours with a wire toothbrush attacking it, and it's coming off albeit slowly. I've still got a couple of hours of work left to do. The outside of the block is the easy part -- all the nooks and crannies on the inside are what are giving me fits.







I also prepped the rings for install on the pistons. Here's drill:

Put ring in cylinder



Use a piston head to get it level in the bore



Verify end gap is within spec (0.009" - 0.017" for this engine)



Out of the 20 rings (five per cylinder), only three had gaps of less than the 0.009" minimum which were easily corrected with a diamond grit honing paddle. None are more that 0.012".

That's the latest -- there's a lot more to follow (but not today )
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Old 01-16-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Head:

That pic is the single best illustration of the dumb design quirks that cause British engines to be such notorious leakers.

Note the almost complete absence of a raised rail or lip around the rocker area. That pressurized area is almost entirely dependent on the rocker cover gasket for sealing. When the engine is running there will almost certainly be pooled oil higher than the sealing surface with only a cork gasket to keep it in the engine.

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Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

I use RTV silicone to adhere the cork gasket to the valve cover, then coat the bottom surface with never seize. Works very well with no leaks, and makes valve adjustments a breeze. Shhhh it's a secret, don't tell everyone, ok?
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Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Originally Posted by Capnblu View Post
I use RTV silicone to adhere the cork gasket to the valve cover, then coat the bottom surface with never seize. Works very well with no leaks, and makes valve adjustments a breeze. Shhhh it's a secret, don't tell everyone, ok?
An old hot rodders trick to keep gaskets from sticking is to rub lip balm on them. It's mostly used when the valves are being lashed regularly though. Once a diesel is set up the rocker cover doesn't (or shouldn't) come off very often.
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Pofin - another trick you might want to do is to paint the INSIDE of your engine with "electrical" paint. I used Dolph red polyurethane electrical insulator paint. It is the colour of red oxide primer. I have NO idea what it's used for in that industry but it is extremely durable inside an engine.

Spray all the exposed surfaces that are washed with oil inside the block, head etc. Wipe off all the machined surfaces with paper towels wetted with lacquer thinner. It's easier than it sounds.

It speeds up oil drainback to the sump by reducing "cling" on the internal surfaces. It also keeps the oil dramatically cleaner - I'm sure you know how rubbing oil on bare cast iron turns the oil and your finger black in no time.

I found my oil remained golden between changes - it has a quite dramatic effect. I would take the time to do it on any engine I built.
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
Pofin - another trick you might want to do is to paint the INSIDE of your engine with "electrical" paint. I used Dolph red polyurethane electrical insulator paint. It is the colour of red oxide primer. I have NO idea what it's used for in that industry but it is extremely durable inside an engine.
Funny you should mention that...

All that residue is paint. Hard to tell from the early, pre-machine shop pics, but the inside of the block and oil pan were both painted with a very durable black paint. I've been contemplating whether or not to go to do it again.
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