Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative - Page 8 - SailNet Community
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post #71 of 268 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Funny you should mention that...

All that residue is paint. Hard to tell from the early, pre-machine shop pics, but the inside of the block and oil pan were both painted with a very durable black paint. I've been contemplating whether or not to go to do it again.
Do it, your oil will thank you for it. Use the electrical insulating paint - all the engine builders I've ever read or spoken to call for it, not engine paint.

Some of your pics look like you still have casting sand in some nooks & crannies.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #72 of 268 Old 01-17-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Do it, your oil will thank you for it. Use the electrical insulating paint - all the engine builders I've ever read or spoken to call for it, not engine paint.

Some of your pics look like you still have casting sand in some nooks & crannies.
No, no sand.

Most of the stuff I've read mentions Glyptal, which is also an insulator paint from the electrical realm. I'll see what I can find out about Dolph's equivalent. Thanks.


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post #73 of 268 Old 01-18-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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No, no sand.

Most of the stuff I've read mentions Glyptal, which is also an insulator paint from the electrical realm. I'll see what I can find out about Dolph's equivalent. Thanks.
Glyptal is the same thing - it is specifically what the engine builders usually refer to but I couldn't get it here. The Dolph is the same thing - sort of like Awlgrip & Imron I guess.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #74 of 268 Old 01-29-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Chapter 10: Heading Down the Back Stretch

Although some of you may have been worrying that I'd bailed on the project, I have not!

The work has been delayed by our recent cold snap. While I can function fairly well in colder temps, paint does not.

Here's the latest update.

As SJB suggested, I decided to seal the areas of the block and head with Glyptal. Lots of varying opinions out there in the interwebs about the wisdom, utility and benefit of doing this; some folks swear by it, others raise worries about the paint coming loose and plugging up the oil pump and/or oil galleys. Others raise worries about the paint's insulating properties retarding heat transfer from the oil out through the block and oil pan. What ultimately swayed me in favor was that it had been done to this engine before and it looked to be holding up just fine.

After taking an air gun to the block and head, I began by masking off the areas I wanted to keep clean. Now some of you may absolutely dread masking, because trimming the edges of masking tape with an Xacto knife or razor blade is a tedious affair -- it doesn't have to be.

First, clean your surface and apply the tape.



Next, run a round screwdriver shaft lightly along the edge of the opening. The pressure will cleanly cut through the tape and the excess can be pulled off.



Another tool that can be used is a ball peen hammer, just like you'd do to cut a gasket.



Here it is all masked.



I did have to fashion some plugs for the tappet bores and the fuel lift pump shaft. I used wooden dowels bulked out with tape. (No pics -- sorry)

Anyway, once it was masked off I then sprayed the bejeesus out of it with brake cleaner to wash off any remaining oil residue or other contaminants. After double checking to make sure the tape had not lifted I began to paint. Nothing fancy, I just went at it with a chip brush, and a couple of smaller art brushes I picked up at Michaels. Here's how she looks now.











A few comments about Glyptal. First, this is an alkyd enamel that was developed for use as an insulator for electrical coils and armatures. It has a very high resistance to heat, and plays well with oil. It's also pretty viscous -- 60% solids by weight. Unfortunately, after many, many hours of searching I've never been able to find any user instructions. The can itself has almost no instructions, other than generic warnings to "thin with proper thinner for spraying" and "use the right brush" for those who apply by brush.

I did two coats, about 90 minutes apart. This stuff skins over pretty quickly, but as thick as it is it will take a while to actually set up enough to apply another coat without disturbing the one below. I probably could have smoothed things out even more if I had applied a third coat.

For cleaning up a few spots where I did actually color outside of the lines, I used brake cleaner sprayed on a lint-free paper towel. It worked very well.

We're getting close to reassembly -- WOOHOO!


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post #75 of 268 Old 01-29-2013
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Originally Posted by PorFin View Post
As SJB suggested, I decided to seal the areas of the block and head with Glyptal. Lots of varying opinions out there in the interwebs about the wisdom, utility and benefit of doing this; some folks swear by it, others raise worries about the paint coming loose and plugging up the oil pump and/or oil galleys. Others raise worries about the paint's insulating properties retarding heat transfer from the oil out through the block and oil pan. What ultimately swayed me in favor was that it had been done to this engine before and it looked to be holding up just fine.
I had the same concern about it flaking. After I ran the engine for the initial 20 minute break in period I changed the oil & filter. I cut the filter apart and found a few small flakes and that was it. It doesn't affect heat transfer to any measurable extent. I first learned about it decades ago from racers who did it primarily to speed up oil drainback at high RPM's. They wouldn't continue to do it if any of those concerns were valid.

Somehow I suspect the people expressing those concerns have never done it and experienced the benefits.

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Anyway, once it was masked off I then sprayed the bejeesus out of it with brake cleaner to wash off any remaining oil residue or other contaminants. After double checking to make sure the tape had not lifted I began to paint. Nothing fancy, I just went at it with a chip brush, and a couple of smaller art brushes I picked up at Michaels. Here's how she looks now.
Very nice job. I used spray cans rather than brushing though - is Glyptal available that way? Spraying with brake cleaner is a good idea. I wiped it down with lacquer thinner which also worked well but was much more work.

I'll be interested to know if it keeps the oil as noticeably cleaner in a diesel - I've only done it in a gas engine.

P.S. Don't forget to do the inside of your sheetmetal parts - rocker cover, front cover, oil pan etc.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.

Last edited by SloopJonB; 01-29-2013 at 09:06 PM.
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

That's looking like a work of art! Assembly should be fun.

Tom K

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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Very nice job. I used spray cans rather than brushing though - is Glyptal available that way?
Yeah, the 1201A is the spray can version. It's way more expensive, and I am pretty certain that they've thinned it out considerably in order to make it able to spray.

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I'll be interested to know if it keeps the oil as noticeably cleaner in a diesel - I've only done it in a gas engine.
I'm not holding my breath (although if it does that'll be an extra benefit.) I think addressing my blow-by issues are much more likely to keep the oil a bit cleaner.

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P.S. Don't forget to do the inside of your sheetmetal parts - rocker cover, front cover, oil pan etc.
The black coating on insides of the oil pan and rocker cover are still in great shape, so no need to hit those. The timing cover, though, will certainly get the full treatment.


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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Porf - we're going through withdrawal on your engine build - any updates?

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

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Porf - we're going through withdrawal on your engine build - any updates?
You and me both -- been fighting a stomach bug for the last week or so.


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Re: Perkins 4.108M DIY Rebuild -- A Narrative

Sorry to hear that Porfin. Hope you're getting better. I guess we can wait

Tom K

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