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post #1 of 20 Old 03-24-2013 Thread Starter
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Alternator for Universal 5416

Looks like my alternator is not working - there was no output voltage, so I would need to replace or rebuild it.
I did some research and found several replacements, the older alternator is no longer available.

One is this one:
New Motorola, Leece Neville 12v 51 Amp Alternator: Alternators &amp Alternator
for $215

Torrensen Marine has it here
Westerbeke 42847 Sailboat Supplies, Engine Parts and Boat Parts
at $605.

Is the price reflective of the quality? Why is Torrensen is so much more expensive?

Will the cheaper one fit well and work ok if I buy ше?

From what I got, here are the part number:
Manufacturer: Universal
Part Number: 302280
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post #2 of 20 Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Alternator for Universal 5416

Leece Neville makes alternators. Like, for example, Balmar. Att triple or more the cost. You can't go wrong with LN. Good stuff.

Additional New Alternator Source & Maine Sail's Analysis of Alt. Sources

See page 2.

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post #3 of 20 Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Alternator for Universal 5416

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romario View Post
Looks like my alternator is not working - there was no output voltage, so I would need to replace or rebuild it.
I did some research and found several replacements, the older alternator is no longer available.

One is this one:
New Motorola, Leece Neville 12v 51 Amp Alternator: Alternators &amp Alternator
for $215

Torrensen Marine has it here
Westerbeke 42847 Sailboat Supplies, Engine Parts and Boat Parts
at $605.

Is the price reflective of the quality? Why is Torrensen is so much more expensive?
No.

There is a three word answer: OEM Marine Alternator

Quote:
Will the cheaper one fit well and work ok if I buy ше?
Yes - actually the Leece-Nevil 90 amp alternator, per Stu's post, is an improvement over OEM, if your vessel can handle the higher amperage.


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post #4 of 20 Old 03-25-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator for Universal 5416

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Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
Yes - actually the Leece-Nevil 90 amp alternator, per Stu's post, is an improvement over OEM, if your vessel can handle the higher amperage.
Ok, maybe a stupid question - how do I know if the boat can handle 90 amp? I have O'Day 30 if this helps. Not sure there was a lot of upgrades to electrical parts of it, but I can do some things if needed.

There are a lot of different ones out there in the link, will this one fit -
Prestolite - Leece Neville
?
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post #5 of 20 Old 03-25-2013
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Re: Alternator for Universal 5416

Hey,

How do you know that the alternator is bad? It might be a broken wire or some other simple problem. If you can't diagnose the problem I would suggest removing the alternator and taking it to a decent automotive place for testing. It could be something simple like a bad voltage regulator that can easily be replaced for a lot less $ than a new alternator.

Good luck,
Barry

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Mt. Sinai, NY

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Re: Alternator for Universal 5416

That looks to be the new&improved version of my alternator (8MR20690TA), I suspect that it will fit where the old Motorola was. [EDIT] I just looked at the Spider Marine site. This DOES NOT look like an equivalent alternator! Check the mounting flange to see if it matches yours! Again, unless you are sure of what you're doing, don't do it!
See this (what I have):
versus this (the part you referenced):


I am referring to the condition and gauge of the wire from the alternator to the starter, to the Off-1-both-2 switch, to the batteries, when I mentioned the caveat. Also, if you have an AMP meter in the cockpit, REMOVE IT. I believe that you may have separate connections for the field exciter circuit. I know that I did on my boat with the Motorola 50A. You will not need these.

Without seeing your installation, I cannot give you a definite answer on what will work in your situation. However, in the hope that it helps, here is the wiring diagram of how my electrical system is laid out.


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Last edited by eherlihy; 03-25-2013 at 09:12 AM.
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post #7 of 20 Old 03-25-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator for Universal 5416

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Originally Posted by BarryL View Post
Hey,

How do you know that the alternator is bad? It might be a broken wire or some other simple problem. If you can't diagnose the problem I would suggest removing the alternator and taking it to a decent automotive place for testing. It could be something simple like a bad voltage regulator that can easily be replaced for a lot less $ than a new alternator.

Good luck,
Barry
Well, the only thing I know is that I tested the voltage on the running engine and it was 0. Rebuilding the alternator might cost similar amount to a new one (and it's not that expensive - $180). Also, my boat is about 2.5 hours away from where I live and the gas to get there is around $50 every time I go, so just going one more time probably defeats the purpose, it's easier to buy a new alternator and install it.
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Re: Alternator for Universal 5416

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Well, the only thing I know is that I tested the voltage on the running engine and it was 0. Rebuilding the alternator might cost similar amount to a new one (and it's not that expensive - $180). Also, my boat is about 2.5 hours away from where I live and the gas to get there is around $50 every time I go, so just going one more time probably defeats the purpose, it's easier to buy a new alternator and install it.
Huh?

If the engine were running, and everything were working correctly, you should have seen ~14V. If the alternator were shot, you would likely have seen ~12.5V (from the battery). Exactly how did you conduct this voltage test?

Note, that if you disconnected the battery, while the engine were running, you likely fried the alternator in doing so...


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Re: Alternator for Universal 5416

Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
That looks to be the new&improved version of my alternator (8MR20690TA), I suspect that it will fit where the old Motorola was. [EDIT] I just looked at the Spider Marine site. This DOES NOT look like an equivalent alternator! Check the mounting flange to see if it matches yours! Again, unless you are sure of what you're doing, don't do it!
See this (what I have):
versus this (the part you referenced):
How about this one:

New Motorola, Leece Neville 12v 90 Amp Alternator: Alternators &amp Alternator
it looks more similar and was suggested as an alternative to the 51 amp one I have.

Quote:
I am referring to the condition and gauge of the wire from the alternator to the starter, to the Off-1-both-2 switch, to the batteries, when I mentioned the caveat. Also, if you have an AMP meter in the cockpit, REMOVE IT. I believe that you may have separate connections for the field exciter circuit. I know that I did on my boat with the Motorola 50A. You will not need these.
I have a device in the engine compartment which I don't know the designation of. There is some scale there and a bunch of wiring goes inside and out of it. May be it's the amp meter you are referring to. I need to do some work on the electric system since some of my cabin lights don't work, so I think I can replace the wires to/from alternator.

Quote:
Without seeing your installation, I cannot give you a definite answer on what will work in your situation. However, in the hope that it helps, here is the wiring diagram of how my electrical system is laid out.
Thanks for the diagram, I will try to make mine to clarify for myself what's going on and how can I change it.
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post #10 of 20 Old 03-25-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator for Universal 5416

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Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
Huh?

If the engine were running, and everything were working correctly, you should have seen ~14V. If the alternator were shot, you would likely have seen ~12.5V (from the battery). Exactly how did you conduct this voltage test?

Note, that if you disconnected the battery, while the engine were running, you likely fried the alternator in doing so...

I don't remember how exactly I measured, I looked in the book how it's done and did it this way. Now, that you mention it I remember something about the danger of disconnecting the batteries. I know for a fact it doesn't charge the batteries.
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