Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever? - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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Diesel This is a new forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


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  #11  
Old 04-09-2013
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Re: Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever?

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Originally Posted by Rusty123 View Post
My understanding is that periodic flushing with Rydlyme or equivalent will get rid of the scaling, but short of converting to FWC (and replacing the zincs on time), is there anything I can do to keep the corrosion at bay?
I don't know if it good or bad (different opinions on this), but I fresh water flush my 30 year old Yanmar 3gmd (direct sea water cooled) engine after each use on return to the dock. I would rather have fresh water than salt sitting in the engine when not in use.

As far as the red lyme acid flush, I have heard that this could cause more problems than it solves. The acid could attack your "good" metals in the engine and cause more rapid corrosion than necessary. I am thinking of doing a 24 hour 50% vinegar and water soak then flush with water.
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Old 04-09-2013
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Re: Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever?

They let it sit in a tank of hot solvent, all of the carbon and deposits dissolve. Usually the longer you can let it sit there the better. I left mine for about 1 full day and it came out perfectly clean. I painted it yanmar grey.

Machine shops will usually "tank" blocks, heads, manifolds etc as a way to get them clean, or in some cases as the first step in getting them clean (with sand or bead blasting next).
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Old 04-09-2013
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Re: Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever?

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Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
I don't know if it good or bad (different opinions on this), but I fresh water flush my 30 year old Yanmar 3gmd (direct sea water cooled) engine after each use on return to the dock. I would rather have fresh water than salt sitting in the engine when not in use.

As far as the red lyme acid flush, I have heard that this could cause more problems than it solves. The acid could attack your "good" metals in the engine and cause more rapid corrosion than necessary. I am thinking of doing a 24 hour 50% vinegar and water soak then flush with water.
Can you describe your fresh water flush setup/procedure? How long does it take to perform?

Re: Rydlyme -- my understanding is that unlike generic scale solvents (CLR, muratic acid, etc.), Rydlyme is specifically engineered for this type of use, and will not attack metals.
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Re: Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever?

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Seakamp Engineering (Bellingham), or AAA Marine in Tacoma can supply nice little heat exchangers that might be worth looking into, but it is a pricey project. You would preserve the current condition of any loss of metals due to corrosion with RWC in play.
I called Sen-Dure (the original manufacturer of the FWC conversion kit). The gentleman I spoke to confirmed that they no longer sell the kit (low demand), but they still sell the HX (about $365, I think he said). Although the kit included a pulley operated pump (and brackets) for fresh water circulation, he advocated using a 12v pump instead, mounted on the bulkhead (along with the HX). The existing pulley driven pump would still pump RW, but through the HX instead of through the block. I assume it would still need to discharge into the exhaust elbow, so corrosion in the elbow wouldn't be reduced.

I'm guessing I could do this conversion for about $500 - $600, which doesn't seem too bad, particularly given the price of repowering.

I'd be interested in hearing feedback from others who have converted their engines to fresh water cooling.

Last edited by Rusty123; 04-09-2013 at 02:38 PM.
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Re: Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever?

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Originally Posted by Rusty123 View Post
Can you describe your fresh water flush setup/procedure? How long does it take to perform?

Re: Rydlyme -- my understanding is that unlike generic scale solvents (CLR, muratic acid, etc.), Rydlyme is specifically engineered for this type of use, and will not attack metals.
To fresh water flush here is what I do:

1. After the engine raw water seacock, I installed a "T" fitting with a shut off ball valve. From this install a nipple and a hose long enough to reach your cockpit. Take a bucket and install a hose nipple at the bottom of bucket.

2. When I return to the dock, I keep the engine running and then run hose to the cockpit and attach to the bucket hose nipple. Fill the bucket with fresh water. now open the ball valve located at the "T" at the raw water seacock. Make sure the hose an bucket are full of water (no air pockets). My hose runs nearly stright up from seacock to the bucket so all air is purged when bucket is full of water.

3. Shut raw water seacock so that now all cooling water is coming from your bucket full of dock water. Run the engine for 10 minutes while topping off your bucket with dock water- do not allow bucket to go dry. For my 3gmd at ideal it runs maybe 2 gpm. You are now doing two things, flushing the engine and letting it cool down (manual says to cool engine for 10 mins prior to shut down). Just before shutting engine down I do a 30 second full throttle to blow out carbon per Yanmar instructions.
4. While I am keeping bucket topped off, I am also rinsing the boat deck and rigging down to save time.

It is important to flush as above and let the engines raw water pump to flush the engine. Never hook a hose directly to engine or the raw water suction side of pump. The hose pressure could damage engine. My dock hose has 100 psi - way too much for engine- might even blow some engine gaskets or freeze plugs out.

I have heard tha Ryde Lyme is ok, still a little afraid to use it though. If it ain't broke don't fix it may be true here.

Last edited by casey1999; 04-09-2013 at 03:05 PM.
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Re: Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever?

Thanks for the detailed description, Casey - that sounds easy enough. My intake hose already has a "Y" fitting like you describe, so all I need is a bucket and hose. I could use quick fittings (like air hoses), which would make the connections super easy.

Still thinking about the FWC conversion though. Maybe I'll pull the head and exhaust manifold this winter and see what the insides look like. If its anything like the outside (like new), I might pull the trigger on the conversion. But if things look pretty far gone, my money is probably better spent elsewhere (like savings towards a repower). I'd sure like to keep this baby running - it's basically perfect for the application (and already paid for).
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Re: Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever?

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Originally Posted by Rusty123 View Post
Thanks for the detailed description, Casey - that sounds easy enough. My intake hose already has a "Y" fitting like you describe, so all I need is a bucket and hose. I could use quick fittings (like air hoses), which would make the connections super easy.

Still thinking about the FWC conversion though. Maybe I'll pull the head and exhaust manifold this winter and see what the insides look like. If its anything like the outside (like new), I might pull the trigger on the conversion. But if things look pretty far gone, my money is probably better spent elsewhere (like savings towards a repower). I'd sure like to keep this baby running - it's basically perfect for the application (and already paid for).
I thought about doing a fresh water cooling conversion on mine also- in same boat as you- engine good for the application and would be expensive to repower.

One thing I considered in fresh water conversion is that an additional belt and pump is added to the engine- somthing more to maintain and break. This just increases the probablility of failure. Although it may make the engine last longer. I have opened up my engine to get to the zincs and thermostat, and was surprised that there was no corrosion. I spoke with a mechanic and he said these engines use good materials to prevent corrosion. Where as an off the shelf fresh water cooled engine would not be made to this level, as it was not designed to be used as salt water cooled. I figure I could probably get 20 years or more out of my 1980 model Yanmar, by that time she will probably be worn out or too hard to obtain spare parts for and I will need to repower.

Also, a leak in the fresh water cooling will mean you need to carry anti freeze and water. A big leak you may be forced to cool the engine with sea water. A raw water cooled engine does not have this problem- you have an ocean full of cooling water available.
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Re: Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever?

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Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
additional belt and pump, anti freeze and water
That's a good point -- lots to be said for simplicity.

On a related topic, I notice that the service manual calls for a valve lapping every 1,000 hours. That sounds excessive to me, but as I've said, I want to keep it running for a good long time, and skipping maintenance doesn't seem like the way to do so.

I don't have the necessary tools or expertise to service the valves, so when I do it, I'd probably just pull the head and take it to a machine shop for the service (good opportunity to perform other work on and around the head).

It sounds like you take good care of your motor -- when and how do you handle the valve lapping requirement?

Last edited by Rusty123; 04-10-2013 at 02:16 PM.
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Re: Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever?

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Originally Posted by Rusty123 View Post
That's a good point -- lots to be said for simplicity.

On a related topic, I notice that the service manual calls for a valve lapping every 1,000 hours. That sounds excessive to me, but as I've said, I want to keep it running for a good long time, and skipping maintenance doesn't seem like the way to do so.

I don't have the necessary tools or expertise to service the valves, so when I do it, I'd probably just pull the head and take it to a machine shop for the service (good opportunity to perform other work on and around the head).

It sounds like you take good care of your motor -- when and how do you handle the valve lapping requirement?
I have never seen a yanmar manual that calls for valve lapping. I see where they do call for valve clearence adjustment. I did adjust my valves a few months back. This was the first time I had done so in the three years I owned the boat. A lot of people skip valve adjustment, but I would do it every 3-5 years. With boat engines, we probably don't put many hours on an engine so I would stick to time not hours. Valve clearance was pretty straight forward, remove the valve cover and check- finding top dead center was the hardest part.

I would not take the engine apart unless you have a problem. Do not remove head unless you need to for a reason (engine broke). Taking old things apart is a sure fire way to break something-been there, done that.

Last edited by casey1999; 04-10-2013 at 03:09 PM.
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Re: Yanmar 2QM15: How can I keep it running forever?

Factory recommended maintenance schedule is shown on page 14-1 of this link:

http://j30.us/files/2qm15_servicemanual.pdf

Valve clearance adjustment is recommended at 300 hour intervals, but valve lapping, bearing inspections, and some other relatively intrusive work is recommended at 1,000 hour intervals.

I'm with you on not tearing apart an operating engine, but on the other hand, there must be some valid reason that Yanmar recommends the maintenance.
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