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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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  #11  
Old 06-08-2004
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Balmar Alternator Eating Belts

That sounds like a viable alternative. I called Balmar again today and talked to a different rep. He suggested I switch to a Dayco "Top Cog" Belt and reprogram the regulator to step down the field potential a bit and fine tune the system. This may be my last effort before having the Hitachi altered. The season is too short here in Maine to waste weekends on mechanical problems.

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Old 06-11-2004
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Balmar Alternator Eating Belts

Ran into a similar problem. Belt dust everywhere.

Found the mount where you tension the belt was flexing alowing the belt to hit the edge of the pully.


Just an idea...
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Old 06-11-2004
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Balmar Alternator Eating Belts

I have a the same Balmar on my 3GM30 Yanmar and no belt problems as long as I set the alternator output to keep the amperage at or below 80 amps, and even then it will kill the engine at idle. I use a deep V industral belt.
From the author of books on boat refrigeration
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Old 06-17-2004
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Balmar Alternator Eating Belts

Thanks for the input,

I tried backing down the field potential on the MaxCharge regulator to 75% and used a Dayco Top Cog belt as Balmar suggested and still haven''t seem much of an improvement. I called Balmar back and now they are sending another pulley to try. I hope this does it becuase the alignment is perfect and sailing season is too short to be wasting all this time. Thanks for the help.

Steve
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Re: Balmar Alternator Eating Belts

Hi, I'm new to this forum and found the subject with my search engine. I don't know if anyone is still researching this issue (last entry was 2004), but if so, maybe this will help. I am installing a serpentine belt drive system on my Yanmar 3GM30F in a couple weeks, after it gets delivered. I will include photos. There are a couple suppliers, Electromaax in Canada, and AltMount (available through Balmar). This is supposed to be the hot system for this type of issue of driving high output alternators with the Yanmar engines. I'll let you know. It's supposed to take about an hour to install, but no one has addressed the raw water pump side of this issue. I'm guessing the old belt for the pump is simply re-used on the remaining v-groove of the crank pully. I'm also not sure what the effect will be on servicing the pump.
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Re: Balmar Alternator Eating Belts

I installed a Yanmar 80 amp alt on a 2GM20. I consider this to be the very upper limit for a single belt drive. I keep a couple spare belts on board, but the current belt has over 50 hrs on it and it is still in good shape.
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Re: Balmar Alternator Eating Belts

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoseASantin View Post
Try using a gates green stripe belt
+1

This is what stopped my engine room from being covered in black dust.
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Re: Balmar Alternator Eating Belts

I also agree om Bates green stripe belt. I too have the Balmar high output alternator on my Yanmar and te green belt stopped the problem. You may want to check the width, depth, and shape of your pulleys to the correct size of the belt.
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Re: Balmar Alternator Eating Belts

I have piles of 100A+ alts on Yanmar's set to run at 70-95A depending upon belt width.

The biggest problems I see are incorrect pulley widths on aftermarket alts. If you have an approx 3/8" belt and the new alt has a 1/2" pulley no amount of tweaking will solve the problem. I see this on a REGULAR basis....

Rusty crank, water pump and alt pulleys are a huge culprit. I see this constantly. Might as well be turning your belt with sand paper. The pulleys MUST be clean and rust free.

Incorrectly sized alt pivot bolts are also EXTREMELY common. This allows the alt to twist off and destroys belts. The alt pivot bolt should be a snug fit and NOT a sloppy fit in the alt AND engine bracket..

Improper fore/aft belt alignment is also very common. The ONLY way to get this right is with a straight edge and a set of calipers to measure offset to the edge of the belt.. Place it flat across the front of the alt pulley and measure the distance to the edge of the belt. Now measure the distance from the straight edge to the edge of the belt at the crank pulley while still holding it flat to the alt pulley.. These measurements need to be identical...

Hands down the Dayco Top Cog is the best performing alt belt I know of..
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