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  #1  
Old 04-17-2014
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Being ANL

fuses are ANL .. what is the real story on them. Blue Sea. products I love but ANL fuses are so cheap for like car stero wiring for amplifiers that draw big amps and require large fuses like we need on our boats.
Can I assume a 100 amp anl fuse for $4 is the same as a Blue sea fuse
ANL Fuse 100 Amp Genuinedealz.com $13 for one
or
Amazon.com: Absolute ANL100-2, 2 Pack ANL Fuses 100 Amp Gold Plated: Car Electronics Amazon.com: Absolute ANL100-2, 2 Pack ANL Fuses 100 Amp Gold Plated: Car Electronics


2 for $4!

Not to mention the terminal blocks for the same are also cheap. I do .of course realize the "marine"type have stainless bolts on the blocks.
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Last edited by deniseO30; 04-17-2014 at 01:25 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-17-2014
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Re: Being ANL

Quote:
Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
fuses are ANL .. what is the real story on them. Blue Sea. products I love but ANL fuses are so cheap for like car stero wiring for amplifiers that draw big amps and require large fuses like we need on our boats.
Can I assume a 100 amp anl fuse for $4 is the same as a Blue sea fuse
ANL Fuse 100 Amp Genuinedealz.com $13 for one
or
Amazon.com: Absolute ANL100-2, 2 Pack ANL Fuses 100 Amp Gold Plated: Car Electronics 2 for $4!
The real story is that crap is NOT a true ANL, does NOT have the same trip delay and is NOT ignition protected. They are pure and utter Chinese JUNK.

I tested about 30 of them perhaps a year or two ago and roughly 4 in 10 failed in an UNSAFE manner.

There is only one ANL to buy for marine use and they are the one Blue Sea has made for them and ignition protection rated.... I have never had one fail in an unsafe manner and I have done extensive testing of ANL, MRBF and CLass T, for Lithium batteries, for an ABYC committee I am on...

That residue is the windows literally blown out of the Amazon/el-cheapo car stereo fuses. There is a reason this crap does not say "Ignition Protected" on it....


Yes proper fusing, MRBF, Class T or true ANL's are not inexpensive. ANL look-a-likes can be cheap but you get what you pay for in all aspects of performance.

That said any fuse is likely safer than no fuse at all. I'd still strongly urge the Blue Sea IP rated ANL's. They fuse holder is also head and shoulders above other brands too.....
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  #3  
Old 04-17-2014
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Re: Being ANL

thanks MS! I was thinking that you had mentioned this some time back
I do like Blue Sea's stuff.
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Old 04-20-2014
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Re: Being ANL

As usual, MaineSail has the real poop!

Denise...those Blue Sea fuseholders are not stainless steel....they're nickel-plated copper.

Stainless is a poor conductor of electricity, and one should be very careful to use e.g., stainless washers and nuts only for compression, not for current conducting (i.e., OK to use a s/s nut or washer to compress a lug onto a conductor, but NOT to use between the lug and the conductor).

Bill
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Old 04-20-2014
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Re: Being ANL

Thanks! I just placed my first order from Genuine dealz Going ANL real soon! LOL
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Old 04-24-2014
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Doing the ACR soon!

Finally after close to 3 years ,I finally have all the parts and pieces to install the Blue sea ACR, WITH the proper battery switch, fusing and wiring!

Have all new batteries too! 2-6v for house, 1-12v for starting I may.. If I keep the boat... add 2 move 6v for a large house bank. but don't think I'll need it.

No I don't have an outboard. the diesel wiring dia. is not really differen't unless the starter and alt are wired independent ( I think I understand!)



Just found this.. which is more representative of what needs to be done. IF the Alt and Start are separate which I don't think they are.


Or this... LOL all the same yet somewhat different
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Last edited by deniseO30; 04-24-2014 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 04-24-2014
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Re: Being ANL

Denise

You should wire the alternator output to the bank of 6 volt batteries, not the starter battery.
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Old 04-24-2014
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Re: Doing the ACR soon!

Quote:
Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
Finally after close to 3 years ,I finally have all the parts and pieces to install the Blue sea ACR, WITH the proper battery switch, fusing and wiring!

Have all new batteries too! 2-6v for house, 1-12v for starting I may.. If I keep the boat... add 2 move 6v for a large house bank. but don't think I'll need it.

No I don't have an outboard. the diesel wiring dia. is not really differen't unless the starter and alt are wired independent ( I think I understand!)



Just found this.. which is more representative of what needs to be done. IF the Alt and Start are separate which I don't think they are.


Or this... LOL all the same yet somewhat different
Yes, this is what I am talking about. Projects! I love your projects as they turn out so nice, especially if they involve wood, perhaps a nice marquetry wood inlay fuse panel, with an inlaid diagram of your boat with led's showing what is on and off? That would look nice above your custom chart table.

OK perhaps that is too much, just glad to see that your not talking about selling now!
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Old 04-26-2014
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Oh Geeze Oh Geeze!

Got started today! omg what a F-----G mess!
Mounted the ACR and it's fuse legs. The 2 batts showing are the house bank, the starter battery is more aft. the empty box from when I had 2 on the start bank will stay empty for now.

Pulling things apart (yes all hot wires are off the batteries) MaineSail, Lookie Look what found! It's not melted, but it is old and one side is rubbed through. I will be getting a terminal strip for that. The alternator and starter are separate #4 wire and the starter wire does go to the key panel. ( as noted last year when we replaced the key start switch.)

Question.. what do I "feed" the engine panel with and where from? Should be fused too no? Thinking #10 wire.

The panel;

removed the old switch, new one fits perfect, jiust needs longer machine screws to hold it in place.
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Old 04-26-2014
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Re: Being ANL

Looks like this is going to work like shown and the only thing really changed would be taking Alt line directly to the house bank, and I'm not even sure I need to do that, since the ACR will always make sure the charging is sent to the bank needing it. Getting rid of the "trailer" connector won't be easy.
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Last edited by deniseO30; 04-26-2014 at 04:36 PM.
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