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  #11  
Old 04-30-2014
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Re: golf cart battery installation

Normally, just one fuse is used for the house bank, located as close to the batteries as possible. ABYC calls for within 7 inches.

For many, the MRBF (terminal) fuses will be very convenient. For some, they may not be, due to height restrictions or other reason. There's at least one report of corrosion possibly due to out gassing from flooded batteries.

Note that only three type of fuses are acceptable for direct connection to a house battery bank: the aforementioned MRBF, the ANL (with caveats as reported by MaineSail), and the Class-T fuses which come in larger sizes and are appropriate for, e.g., large inverters. Other fuses do not have a large enough ampere interrupt capacity (AIC)....should be at least 5,000 amps.

Also, only one type of breaker meets this specification: the new Blue Sea Systems series.

You mentioned earlier that you'd connect both wires to the positive end and both to the negative end of the new battery bank. Not sure what you are thinking, but only one connection at each end is required, especially if you're going to use 1/0 or 2/0 cabling. That cable should go to either position 1 or position 2 on your switch...whichever you plan to use all the time.

Bill
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Re: golf cart battery installation

Ok, one fuse for the bank it is That's easier on the wallet.

The two wires is because I'm not going to replace the wires from my existing two banks. They seem quite servicable and redoing them is time and money I don't want to expend. So I have two wires now, which are probably 1/0, and I'll hook them up in parallel. The wire gauge I was asking about before was for jumpers between the batteries.
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Old 05-01-2014
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Re: golf cart battery installation

A bit OT but about corrosion on fittings: Other than BoeShield I hadn't seen any anti-corrosion sprays on the market in ages. Last week I found one from Rustoluem, of all the odd folks, hiding with the spray paint cans. Apparently a thin wipeable film, meant for shovel blades, tools, whatever and I'm hoping good for anything including electrical connections.
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Old 05-02-2014
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Re: golf cart battery installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeador View Post
...My system is a mix of 1/0 (or maybe 2/0) cables to the bank plus 4/0 from the combiner to the inverter/charger. I'm thinking the jumpers should be 1/0 or 2/0 but I'm not sure which. They'll be very short, probably only about a foot.

Thanks!
Just make sure you are sizing your cables correctly. 4/0 for a combiner to charger and 1/0 or 2/0 for a jumper are overkill.
Do you mean 1 AWG not 1/0 AWG maybe?
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Re: golf cart battery installation

I don't think they're overkill. I sized the one to the inverter/charger using an online calculator. It can pull about 200A fully loaded, and it's probably a 6-8' from the combiner one way. This bank also feeds the engine starter and the autopilot, which are both heavy loads, though intermittent. I've actually been thinking that my battery cables to the combiner are a little on the small side, but since there are two of them I've decided it's good enough.
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Old 05-06-2014
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Re: golf cart battery installation

One note: if you draw high amperage you may want to consider clamping to the post rather then bolting to the SS studs. They studs can heat up and melt out of the lead. There is simply not enough contact area.

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Old 05-06-2014
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Re: golf cart battery installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shockwave View Post
One note: if you draw high amperage you may want to consider clamping to the post rather then bolting to the SS studs. They studs can heat up and melt out of the lead. There is simply not enough contact area.

I've got 400A bow thrusters using less than the contact area on a marine battery stud post... We have starters on 800HP diesels with less contact area than a marine stud battery post and they do fine...

The ONLY time I have seen melting of terminals is from improper installation of lugs (bad crimp), improper battery nut torque, improper lug stacking or SS flat washers inserted between ring and battery..

I've never once seen a melted stud post terminal, when properly installed.

I actually dislike clamp style terminals because they tend to creep and stretch over time and tend to get loose. Many of the large cranking batteries today don't even offer clamp posts they are bolt through because of this. If I had a dime for every "clamp" post what was pinched as tight as it would go, until both ears were touching, and I could still twist it by hand......

Heck I have a 100' "Deadliest Catch" off shore fishing boat I work on with a 12' long Caterpillar diesel that uses ring terminals and has been since the boat was built...

But beyond all that lets follow the logical progression of the DC circuit and what is in the circuit for the highest amperage loads we'd see on a sailboat..

Starter - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
Battery Switch - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
Windlass - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
Bow Thruster - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
Inverter or Inverter Charger - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
ANL, Class T, MRBF Bank Fusing - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
DC Watermaker - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
HO Alternator - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
HO Battery Charger - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
High Amp Shunts - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
High Amp Busbars - Never seen a lead clamp post on one, for ring terminals only
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Last edited by Maine Sail; 05-06-2014 at 09:32 AM.
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