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post #1 of 37 Old 08-25-2014 Thread Starter
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fuse popped, ARRRG

All the rewiring I did as many of you may remember? Well the cube fuses seemed ok. I wasn't overly impressed with them. Anyway. The fuse for the starter on the engine battery burned out. 125 amp, terminal loosened up "again" . with lock washers that was the cause. Any way... the new terminal is all green on the cable so I'm going to replace it with new one and get better washers on the cube terminal and go to 150 amp for the starter. I'm really tempted to leave it out. since that is what had to be done to use the engine battery again.

So it also dawned on me I need the batteries combined so the solar trickle feeds them all? (Blue Seas Isolated battery circuits switch, with acr)

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #2 of 37 Old 08-25-2014
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Re: fuse popped, ARRRG

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Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
All the rewiring I did as many of you may remember? Well the cube fuses seemed ok. I wasn't overly impressed with them. Anyway. The fuse for the starter on the engine battery burned out. 125 amp, terminal loosened up "again" . with lock washers that was the cause. Any way... the new terminal is all green on the cable so I'm going to replace it with new one and get better washers on the cube terminal and go to 150 amp for the starter. I'm really tempted to leave it out. since that is what had to be done to use the engine battery again.

So it also dawned on me I need the batteries combined so the solar trickle feeds them all? (Blue Seas Isolated battery circuits switch, with acr)

Denise a 125A or 150A amp fuse for a starter load is a JOKE!!!! You really need 250-300A and at the smallest 200A bare minimum.... What size is your wire?

Beyond that use a nylock with the MRBF with the nylock on top of a split washer.

ANY BATTERY THAT CAN BE CALLED UPON TO EVER START A SAILBOAT AUX DIESEL NEEDS A MINIMUM 200A FUSE, BUT PREFERABLY 250-300A TO AVOID NUISANCE TRIPS....!

Once you get the right fuse in there you will have many thousands of starts and will completely forget the fuse is even there.

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post #3 of 37 Old 08-25-2014
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Re: fuse popped, ARRRG

And if you have no silicon grease to schmear on the fittings to prevent them from turning green, you can always use chicken schmaltz.

With any leftover chicken schmaltz, you can make chopped liver.
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post #4 of 37 Old 08-25-2014
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Re: fuse popped, ARRRG

I went with the 300A fuses for my Universal 5424. The cabling is 00, so according to the table my fuses are just about small enough to protect the cabling. 00 is rated for 280A continuous inside an engine space. I think I read you are allowed a certain rating over the continuous rating, when selecting fuses. Mainesail, do you know what that percentage is?

"the new terminal is all green on the cable". Does this mean the conductors are not tinned?

Genuinedealz.com will sell you nice cables, terminated, with tinned marine-grade wire. That's what I use, and the price was less than the bare cable at my local chandlery.

Bristol 31.1, San Francisco Bay

Last edited by MarkSF; 08-25-2014 at 05:43 PM.
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post #5 of 37 Old 08-25-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: fuse popped, ARRRG

Hides behind sofa and softy says; "weeeell I wanted to size them closer to the load"
# 4 marine battery cable only about 4ft to starter. It's only a little 2 cylinder engine.

the terminal was loose enough to rattle. they make copper nylocs?

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #6 of 37 Old 08-25-2014
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Re: fuse popped, ARRRG

I used to have 4 gauge cabling. It starts with a lot more enthusiasm, now it has 2/0.

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Re: fuse popped, ARRRG

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I used to have 4 gauge cabling. It starts with a lot more enthusiasm, now it has 2/0.
Well #4 can handle 136 to 160 amps load, and more on the surge

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #8 of 37 Old 08-25-2014
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Re: fuse popped, ARRRG

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Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
Hides behind sofa and softy says; "weeeell I wanted to size them closer to the load"
# 4 marine battery cable only about 4ft to starter. It's only a little 2 cylinder engine.

the terminal was loose enough to rattle. they make copper nylocs?

What "load"? You do know a starter can draw many times it's "rating"... I have measured a 1.2kW starter at 640A during the in-rush... I have measured a 1.4kW at over 1000A in-rush. ANL, MRBF and Class T can handle brief in-rush but still need to be sized well in excess of the kW rating.. On a warm day with healthy battery & wiring you might see just 2X the rating but as the battery gets weak, marginal cable of cold temps etc. the starter load can go up..

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post #9 of 37 Old 08-25-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: fuse popped, ARRRG

load From the new 90am alternator. the terminal was loose for the starter! Could of burned, glad the fuse went

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #10 of 37 Old 08-26-2014
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Re: fuse popped, ARRRG

Hi Denise,

You should size the MRBF to the location, wire gauge and insulation temperature rating. I have AWG 2 leads with 105C insulation going to my batteries, and this is inside the engine room, so for me the proper size fuse for me is 178.5A - call it 175A.

Look at the table below, and find your wire gauge, then find the insulation, and read what should be your fuse rating.
(Posting this image from Maine Sail's site);


[EDIT] If sized too small, you WILL blow fuses as your battery voltage drops. You know that the voltage will drop as you spend a night at anchor, and use the batteries. Voltage down means current up to produce the same power to the starter motor.


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Last edited by eherlihy; 08-26-2014 at 09:12 AM.
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