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Modular wiring terminals -- help!

5K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  hellosailor 
#1 ·
I purchased a 2005 Beneteau 36.7 and am trying to do some simple changes to the electrical system. Problem is I have no idea how the modular terminal blocks work (picture below). The blocks make things tidy, but my attempts to release or add wires have been very frustrating. Do I need special tools for this? Where can I get jumpers like some of those you can see? Who makes this?
Hoping someone else has a similar setup and has figured this out.
 

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#2 ·
If you don't see screw heads in the smaller holes alongside the wire terminals, then they are probably spring loaded.. ie you insert a tool (small screwdriver) and push to open a spring-loaded terminal clamp. That should release the wire.
 
#3 ·
Thanks, Ron. No screws, and yes, I'm sure it's spring-loaded. Problem is trying to make it release. The round holes on the small gray blocks are really constricted, and I haven't had any luck with them. I'm thinking I'd need a small rod tool or a *really* small screwdriver. The bigger modules (e.g., for the negative bus) don't seem to have similar holes. They do have a slot on the top, but trying to get something pressing down or up in there is not working, and I don't want to break the plastic. That's why I'm wondering about special tools.
Would love to find out who makes these blocks, assuming they're still in business 10 years later.
 
#4 ·
Yes they are spring loaded. They are an excellent and inovative design when you work out how to use them :)

See your photo cropped, below.

Note below each red wire coming in from above is a shiny hole on the side towards us. See 4 wires, see 4 shiny holes.
Jamb a small flat headed screwdriver into the shiny hole till it goes all the way in. That forces the spring thing down and the red wire releases.

Same to put a wire in.

It does take a little force and wiggling to get the screwdriver in. But not so much that you break it all!

Mark
 

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#5 ·
Thanks! Need that confidence to push that hard. I have now managed to add a positive 16-gauge wire into an empty slot. I also added a 10-gauge wire into the negative bus to add a more standard negative bus with screws.
The amount of force needed, though, seems excessive, and the release is not obvious (still makes me feel like I'm doing something wrong).
Also, I would love to know whether the little blocks of 4 or 10 can be removed/replaced, and whether I can get jumpers to link a positive in (at bottom) to more than one out (at top).
Still no luck finding the company or this product online.
--Nick
 
#7 ·
those are DIN rail terminal blocks. started in europe but used throughout the world now. you can mix and match brands, they all fit on the universal DIN rail. come in screw and push in terminals. lots of other components fit the rail like fuse holder, circuit breakers, timers, relays, etc.
 
#10 ·
Is there a preference for the WAGO 222 or the 221? They seem to have basically the same specs, but the 221 is smaller and clear so you can see inside.

Thoughts?
 
#11 · (Edited)
The 221 (24AWG to 12AWG) is a newer and more compact version of the 222 (28AWG to 12AWG). The clear plastic allows you to see insert depth but it is very easy to feel this in the 222. I still like the 222's as they have a more positve closed snap to them and a bit more leverage on the arm. The 221's almost feel to easy and less positive..The "guides" on the 222 are also rounded and seem to more properly align the wire upon insert without it catching and stopping prematurely. Course on the 221 you can see insert depth so the wire guides are less critical.

Be very careful buying Wago Lever-Nuts as the Chinese have knokcked them off in a big way and quality is not the same. I accidentally ordered some knock off 222 Lever-Nuts when wiring our addition up at the mountain and broke three of them in 15 minutes. Despite it being very cold, about 20F that day, I found it odd that they broke? It was only then that I noticed they were not genuine Wago, despite even the box looking identical. I then had to redo every single one... Arghh..... The knock-offs also lacked compliance testing and other things required to meet code. It is my understanding these are still patent protected so my guess is the Chinese can't send the copy cat product to UL. This is yet another reason why buying from Amazon can be scary. I needed them quickly so used Prime with a Wago Lever-Nut 222 as the search.. Bad chocie, and Amazon refused to take them back as counterfeit, or even accept my review, and then edited the copy to remove refernces that could imply they were Wago.

That said I don't yet use them on boats as I have dealt with some pretty frustrating corrosion issues on Euro boats using DIN rails.
 
#13 ·
I have one small bin full of knock-off wiring stuff that I keep just for the lesson it teaches and for comparison. I use it for test set-ups that will never be installed anywhere. Most were bought by accident or given to me.
* electrical tape that burns. even has a UL stamp.
* heat shrink that doesn't.
* barrier strips with poor plating.

Amazon is really handy for getting something small, fast, with cheap shipping, but you have to watch.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I just pull tested some Wago 222s. Using 14 AWG THHN wire...

Terminal type Pull-out force (pounds)
Wago 222 12 this meets ABYC for the type (6 pounds)
Wire Nut, Ideal 18-22
Choc bloc 16-18 (quality varies--this one had pressure plates)
Screw Strip 50-60 crimp failed

I'm not sure what I think of this. The wire nut is tough on fine strands but OK with THHN wire. The others did not damage the wire.

Thoughts?

---

Choc block and barrier were Eaton/KemaKeur
 
#20 ·
Maine-
Some years ago I was told (I didn't confirm it) that getting UL certification for something as simple as a wall-wart power supply, could cost $50,000. Whatever the amount is, even if it was $1000, why would a counterfeiter bother wasting that money and delaying their shipments, and alerting someone to the existence of their product, when they could just make a knock-off? Complete with the UL logo in most cases.
There was a recall from a major US chain store about ten years ago, counterfeit power strips complete with the gold hologram UL label, that were catching fire. And more recently, Home Depot has been taken to task by the FCC for selling LED lights that were never FCC Part15 type accepted, creating scads of radio interference.
Why ask why, the answer is almost always simply "Cherchez le buck!"
 
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