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AIMS Power Inverter

4K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  punahougirl84 
#1 ·
Does anyone have experience with the AIMS Power Pure Sine Inverters? We are researching inverters in the 2000W range that can be hard-wired with our boat's existing AC system.

We bought a Beneteau First 38 last year. She came with a Xantrex Freedom 20, which was located in the engine compartment. The surveyor recommended moving it out. So we did - it ended up in the starboard aft cabin, in the back (the 2 4D wet cell batteries are in the front, under the berth).

It worked for a little while, then died. So now it is in a dockbox. Sigh.

After varying recommendations (get it fixed, get something else, wait to get something and just get a charger for now...), we ended up installing a Mastervolt charger (50 amp). The suggestion was to not have an inverter/charger because when it dies you lose both functions, and we didn't need the inverter right away, so start with the charger and then do the inverter later. This was supposed to also be a money-saving option, and the inverter could be installed right next to the charger.

I'm not having a ton of success finding an inverter-only option that we can hard-wire into the boat. I'd obviously prefer to not pay the inverter/charger price for just an inverter. The wires are set up and ready to go.

Regarding the 2000W option: "This AIMS Power pure sine inverter is capable of producing 2000 Watts of clean power ideal for running your sensitive electronics. Great for use in vehicles, boats, camping and emergencies where back up power is needed. The inverter features a resettable GFCI outlet, along with a USB outlet and a direct connect terminal block for harnessing the full inverter's capacity. An optional wired remote is available for this unit, AIMS Power part number REMOTEHF."

Thank you in advance for any information/thoughts/reviews you might have!
 
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#2 ·
I just replace my Freedom 20 with a Magnum pure sine. So far, very happy with it. If you had the remote panel for the Xantrex, the Magnum is a direct replace (size and hole config), as was all the AC and DC wiring. I did have to upgrade my DC cables, as I upsized the inverter. I understand the Magnum guys left Xantrex to improve on the product, but that's just rumor to me.

Personally, I say get the inverter/charger and have your mastervolt as a backup. If you have a separate start battery, perhaps the mastervolt could keep that topped up.
 
#3 ·
I have no useful input for you (sorry) but please report back and let us know what you end up doing, I'm in the exact same boat. I'm happy with my charger and want to hard wire a standalone inverter. Pure sine for sure, 2000w seems to be our magic number too... have same setup in our camper van and love it, but really want something "marine" (despite increased price) so I don't have to change it out every two years.

So please let us know what you come up with.

-- Bass
 
#4 ·
I don't have a separate start battery (though that's on the list of things to investigate and do at some point). But that's a good thought. After investing in new standing rigging, a new bottom, and new sails, a Magnum isn't happening for now! But I could see doing that in the future. We do have the remote panel for the Xantrex, and we replaced and upgraded all the cables.

I spoke with a tech at AIMS today (they are in Nevada) to make sure the one we are looking at can be hard-wired. I hope to get more input but am certainly leaning that way for an affordable solution. I will certainly check back and if we go with it, report how it goes.
 
#5 ·
It may be my ignorance but AFAIK any piece of electronics can be "hardwired" into a boat. You screw/strap/glue down the equipment, and you similarly make a robust attachment of all the wires, and now you're hard-wired in. That's all there is to it.

Never heard of that brand, can only say that there's a lot of re-branded poorly made junk from China with short warranties, crude sine waves, over-rated capacities, etc. so do your best to check out reviews, other users, and the warranty. And use a credit card that adds a year to that.

One problem with electronics of any kind is that for every 10 degree C rise in temperature, you cut the life of the components in half. So If your boat's cabin or quarterberth is at 68F/20C, and the engine compartment is 140F/60C, that's a 40C rise, so you cut the life of the electronics in half, four times. You're left with a solid-state device that might have had a nominal life of 100 years, now with 1/16th of that life, i.e. five or six years before expected failure. (Yeah, WOW.)

The drawbacks of course are "Where can I stick the damned thing" where it won't get wet, can't make spark dangers, won't bang your head or ribs if you roll over in the berth, won't need long heavy cables....all that good stuff. Wait till you calculate voltage losses per foot of expensive tinned battery cable, for a 2000W potential load.(G)

And you might also want to make sure it doesn't create a lot of radio interference, on your VHF or other rigs. Or any electronics you have on board.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Maybe I should have been more clear: "hard-wired" as in wired into the boat to run the outlets that can be found in each cabin, the galley, and the nav station. Many lower watt inverters come with on-board outlets and those are the only ones you can plug into - so they cannot be "hard-wired" into the boat in the way I mean. I don't want that kind of inverter - I want the kind that will power the outlets that are built into the boat.

I posted to get any reviews or experience people have had with it! I'm obviously doing outside research as well, but no search here turned it up so I thought I would create a new thread. Always use a CC for an online purchase like this. Hoping to figure all that out before spending the money.

As for the rest, yes, that's why the new placement is out of the engine compartment, in a cooler, better ventilated area, and closer to the batteries without immediate exposure to any fumes (that area is ventilated as well. But away from the radio, the VHF, etc. Thanks!
 
#7 ·
""hard-wired" as in wired into the boat to run the outlets "
Makes no difference, really! If you have an inverter that maxes out at 2000W, that's 117.5 VAC (US nominal wall voltage) at 17 amps, so you'll probably want that to run directly into a 15 amp breaker. Whether you make that connection by plugging a standard heavy-gauge (14AWG) extension cord from the inverter to the breaker, or you remove the "outlet" from the inverter and run a wire more permanently, has no effect on the electricity. In fact, if you "plug in" that gives you an extra option, should the inverter fail and you need an alternate way to power the outlets. (A shore power cord.) I know, that's not ABYC approved, but it won't blow up overnight either.

It is a matter of options and choices, no big deal to add or remove a duplex outlet from a piece of equipment.

I think you'd find more of a difference when it comes to gensets. Some of those are designed so that the generator automatically detects when an AC outlet has something plugged in--and then automatically starts the genset. Neat trick.

But for inverters? Dunno, I like the option of just unplugging the damned thing if it dies, or has to go out for service.

Last time I asked a similar question (about 2000W and sine wave) the answers were all over the map. Making me think "plug it in" and "disposable" were about the only thing folks agree on. Like Mr. Westinghouse said, that AC electricity Mr. Edison is peddling, it'll jump out of the sockets and kill you in your sleep. Yessir. (Or did I get that backwards?)
 
#9 · (Edited)
Does anyone have experience with the AIMS Power Pure Sine Inverters? We are researching inverters in the 2000W range that can be hard-wired with our boat's existing AC system.
Sorry I am seeing this only now. I bought an AIMS Pure Sine inverter 2 years ago. It is the 1200W model, not 2000W. It seems well-built and came with a few feet of primary (12V) cable, enough for me to connect it to the batteries. I looked at the sine wave with an oscilloscope and it looked nice. I wired it into the boat and it has been performing flawlessly so far.

Three suggestions:

First, get the remote switch. I installed the unit itself down in a locker (to get it out of the way, close to the battery, and somewhat cool). I would not want to climb in there each time for turning it on or off.

Second, although the unit can do 'pass-through' (i.e., it is compatible with onshore power), I installed one additional outlet that is directly connected to onshore power. The reasoning is that if I should run a large load (like a heater), I would not want to unnecessarily route that through the inverter. Use a separate GFI with LED which gives you an immediate indication when the power is on (more on GFIs below)

Third, when you install it, put a GFI in the circuit as the first outlet after the inverter, and put the GFI outlet somewhere we you can see it and reset it. Buy one with an LED that will immediately tell you whether it is powered. Wire it in series so it will protect all outlets. If it is not completely clear to you how to make this connection, please don't mess with high voltage!!!! If may kill you or someone else. I don't want to imply you don't know this but if that is the case, PLEASE stop right here and have someone install it who is very familiar with 110V installations.
 
#14 ·
Thanks so much for replying with your experience with an AIMS unit (we aren't rushing into this so the timing is just fine!). We would definitely plan on getting the remote. We have onshore power that goes directly to our outlets without the inverter already (so we can use the outlets at the dock, just not at anchor). But the first outlet isn't GFI/GFCI so we are replacing it (the LED is a great idea - I'm not sure if the replacement has that and will check). At the moment, this would be the same one that is first in circuit. We do have installation help from qualified people - we've had that help with removing the dead Xantrex and installing the Mastervolt. I don't mind the advice - all the help is welcome.
 
#10 ·
Does anyone have experience with the AIMS Power Pure Sine Inverters? We are researching inverters in the 2000W range that can be hard-wired with our boat's existing AC system.

We bought a Beneteau First 38 last year. She came with a Xantrex Freedom 20, which was located in the engine compartment. The surveyor recommended moving it out. So we did - it ended up in the starboard aft cabin, in the back (the 2 4D wet cell batteries are in the front, under the berth).

It worked for a little while, then died. So now it is in a dockbox. Sigh.

After varying recommendations (get it fixed, get something else, wait to get something and just get a charger for now...), we ended up installing a Mastervolt charger (50 amp). The suggestion was to not have an inverter/charger because when it dies you lose both functions, and we didn't need the inverter right away, so start with the charger and then do the inverter later. This was supposed to also be a money-saving option, and the inverter could be installed right next to the charger.

I'm not having a ton of success finding an inverter-only option that we can hard-wire into the boat. I'd obviously prefer to not pay the inverter/charger price for just an inverter. The wires are set up and ready to go.

Regarding the 2000W option: "This AIMS Power pure sine inverter is capable of producing 2000 Watts of clean power ideal for running your sensitive electronics. Great for use in vehicles, boats, camping and emergencies where back up power is needed. The inverter features a resettable GFCI outlet, along with a USB outlet and a direct connect terminal block for harnessing the full inverter's capacity. An optional wired remote is available for this unit, AIMS Power part number REMOTEHF."

Thank you in advance for any information/thoughts/reviews you might have!
#1 You only want to install a UL-458 marine inverter or marine inverter/charger, especially if it will be connected to your vessels AC system. It should meet UL458 plus the UL-458 SA. SA is the Marine Supplement portion of UL-458. I know of no stand alone inverters that feature a 30A internal transfer switch which is suitable for marine use.

The inverter you reference, based on description, I suspect is not a marine unit and many of the AIMS are not intended for marine use. I could not find an AIMS 2000W inverter only that has a 30A internal auto-transfer switch. Most stand alone units will have a floating ground when operational. A floating ground, when the inverter is operational, does not comply with US marine safety standards. You would need to wire in a rotary transfer switch, such as a Blue Sea/Kraus and Naimer switch to make this work and now you've added another $300.00 +/- plus you'll need to understand how to wire one of these switches for proper neutral/Earth bonding for shore and inverter..

#2
AIMS does make a 2000W pure sine that meets UL458 but I do not believe it meets the marine portion of UL458, which is supplement SA.. As such the transfer switch on their 2000W UL458 unit is incorrect for use on a boat. I believe they can modify it, and send you the correct internal transfer switch wiring, but you need to know what you're talking about to even begin to order this.

#3 If installing a "automotive" type inverter, basically any inverter with a 15A or 20A GFCI outlet, you are best to keep it 100% isolated from the ships AC system. You can wire in some dedicated inverter only outlets but don't mix ships AC and inverter unless the inverter is specifically designed and tested for marine use. Because "automotive" units are a 15A or 20A outlet the max optional auto-transfer switch rating is generally 15A or 20A. If you have 30A service, well, this is not good because now your whole boats AC system has lost 10A or 15A worth of service when plugged into shore power...

This is why an inverter/charger makes the most sense when wishing to power your vessels existing AC system. Because the transfer switch is internal to the unit, it properly transfers neutral/Earth bonding when operation and unbonds Neutral/Earth when plugged into shore power.

Magnum & Victron both sell good quality marine inverter/chargers. I would probably steer you towards a Magnum MS2000.
 
#15 ·
Hi! I know we have already read some of your articles/posts here and have benefited from them when working on the boat. Thank you for the reply.

In a perfect world, with 20/20 hindsight and a flush bank account, we would have just gone to a Magnum or Victron last year. We had to spend less and got the charger - we weren't anchoring anywhere. We might delay again depending on the input and the lottery LOL.

This is the unit I was looking at:
2000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter

I had been wondering if a transfer switch would be needed, or if we would just turn off the charger and turn on the inverter when AC power was desired away from the dock. It helps to know this and the additional cost. I looked to see if stand-alone inverters had such a switch but assumed they didn't and that only combo units would have them.

I wasn't trying to look at "automotive" type inverters - I had only noticed that many units were offered for marine/RV use. I was specifically looking for inverters without the onboard outlets because I figured they wouldn't be the type to hard-wire to the boat's system. This unit seemed to offer both options.

When we are plugged in to the shore we still have power at the outlets, without the inverter. We only need an inverter that will take the DC power, invert it, and deliver it to the AC board. This is probably something I should have mentioned in my first post - I'm still new to having AC at all on a boat!
 
#12 ·
Magnum does not, Victron does not, Mastervolt does not. Part of the reason for this is they don't want a device that is essentially a parasitic load automatically transferring when there is no charger side to it.

Most combis or inverter / chargers automatically enter charge mode when you plug into shore power and transfer to inverted AC when you unplug. Most marine I/C's have an internal transfer switch that is set up for proper neutral/Earth switching at the rating you desire or need..

Mastervolt offers transfer switches for stand alone inverters, as an accessory, but they are generally intended for GEN / SHORE so they will usually recommend a rotary transfer switch (Krauss & Naimer type) for a stand alone inverter. The Mastervolt 2000W 120V inverter only is more costly than a Magnum MS2000 I/C and you've still not purchased a transfer switch.

That said I have curtailed installing "high frequency" inverters, unless a customer agrees to accept the reliability whack vs. a transformer based unit. Until HF inverters become more reliable, and this would include Xantrex Pro-Sine or HF and the Mastervolt high frequency inverter/chargers I will be continuing to install old school Magnum I/C's and some Victron's too, heavy as they may be......
 
#13 ·
One thing I really like about my new Magnum is that I can turn the inverter completely off, from the remote panel. Indeed, if it's on, it will auto switch between charge and invert, based up the presence of shore power. However, I don't want the inverter to interrogate for a load, when disconnected from shore. I want to control when it's on or not. I worry someone will accidentally turn on an AC breaker or plug something in that starts draining the house bank. I'm a control freak.
 
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