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post #11 of 20 Old 03-09-2009
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Maine Sail, wish I'd seen your post before I bought 30 feet of Ankor at 1.99 a foot at WM near my boat. I would have 70 extra feet for the same price. What about soldering rather than crimping?
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post #12 of 20 Old 03-09-2009
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You're really better off crimping for several reasons. First, making a proper solder joint is much more difficult than making a good crimp with a good crimper. Second, solder tends to create hard points which are far more subject to fatigue-related failure on a boat. Third, in an extreme case, the solder can heat up in a short situation and leave a hot wire exposed, since solder is not considered a mechanical connection—this can't happen with a properly crimped connection.

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post #13 of 20 Old 03-12-2009
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I have found another great source for marine wiring projects. I just finished completely rewiring my '74 Pearson 30. I ripped out all of the old wire, the old "panel", and the old AC. The cost was half of what I would have spent at WM. This guy even let me buy wire in less than 100' lengths at the spool price.

Take a look at Peter Kennedy Yacht Services - Marine Electrical Systems. Peter was very helpful answering all of my questions, had great customer service, and quick turn around and great prices on custom battery cables.
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post #14 of 20 Old 03-13-2009
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See these wire size charts:
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79wire_sizing_chart_-_e-0101_00001-med_original.jpg   79wire_sizing_chart_-_e-0102_00002-med_original.jpg  
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post #15 of 20 Old 04-28-2009
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So I saw this post, and while I am referencing Don Casey's Sailboat Electrics Simplified, I still have this question: Can I have a wire that is "too big"? And I don't mean a 2 gauge(AWG) wire for a 25 watt light, but if I bought a 12 gauge wire to run my electronics (which include VHF, knot meter, cabin lights, small cabin fan, steaming light, running lights, bilge pump...and I think that is it actually), would that be a big enough gauge. And I also mean that they will be on separate circuits. Thanks in advance!

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post #16 of 20 Old 04-28-2009
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Running wire that is slightly oversized is actually a good idea, if you can afford to do it. It will help protect the boat in case of a short, since the wire will be less likely to heat up and cause a fire before the fuse blows or circuit breaker trips. It also can give you expansion capability for future use. I generally recommend running wire that is at least one size, if not two, larger than what the circuit or equipment requires.

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So I saw this post, and while I am referencing Don Casey's Sailboat Electrics Simplified, I still have this question: Can I have a wire that is "too big"? And I don't mean a 2 gauge(AWG) wire for a 25 watt light, but if I bought a 12 gauge wire to run my electronics (which include VHF, knot meter, cabin lights, small cabin fan, steaming light, running lights, bilge pump...and I think that is it actually), would that be a big enough gauge. And I also mean that they will be on separate circuits. Thanks in advance!

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post #17 of 20 Old 04-28-2009
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Oh good, thanks! I'm about to dive into 100ft of Ancor Marine Safety Duplex Cable Wire 12/2 AWG, and with the simple electronics that I have, it should be plenty.
While we are on the subject (and I don't think it is possible to hijack this thread being a couple months old), I am rewiring the entire electrical system in my boat. Do you think it would be wise to install AC wiring as well, or just buy an inverter that can plug into a DC outlet? The most I will ever have requiring AC would be possibly a little window unit a/c and charging my laptop/phone. Thanks again.

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post #18 of 20 Old 04-28-2009
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I wouldn't buy Ancor wire as it is generally way overpriced. I'd go with Berkshire cable, which is available from GenuineDealz.com.

If you're serious about installing AC on the boat, it would make sense to install a shorepower outlet and an AC battery charger, along with some outlets. The small inverters are great for small loads, but if you're at the dock, it would make sense to have a shorepower setup.

Basically, you'd need a shore power inlet plug, a shore power main panel, a GFCI outlet and a good AC powered battery charger.

For a battery charger, I'd recommend you go with an Iota charger, available here.

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post #19 of 20 Old 04-29-2009
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Quote:
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I wouldn't buy Ancor wire as it is generally way overpriced. I'd go with Berkshire cable, which is available from GenuineDealz.com.
That's actually where I am buying from and only paying fifty cents more.

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Basically, you'd need a shore power inlet plug, a shore power main panel, a GFCI outlet and a good AC powered battery charger.

For a battery charger, I'd recommend you go with an Iota charger, available here.
The boat is already set up with a plug, but it is just a plug that a normal extension cord connects to, which I know is not the same as a shore power connection. But should I still install the right connection while I am doing this, even if I decide not to install AC wiring? Another words, will I benefit from the connection if I only have DC?

I am just trying to get an idea of the things that I should do while I am at it to make things easier down the road...well, because I have never done this before and it is finally happening.

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The Berkshire cable is better than the Ancor IMHO.

Having a non-locking plug for the 110 AC shore power is not a good idea. If the cable accidentally gets unplugged and falls in the water, bad things can happen. There is a reason that marine power cords for shorepower systems LOCK into place.

Photos would help.

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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