Deck/Steaming light wiring question

[andyjen]

Thank you for the help, it is much appreciated. I have a very busy family life and do not have allot of research time. You have been a big help. ps I did purchase the replacement panel box with eight circuits. Thanks again. Andy C22 Sunshine Daydream on Seneca Lake, NY

[saildork]

Andy, when you get it all wired up, test it with a multimeter or a continuity tester (available in auto parts stores) so you don't have to raise the mast just to see if it works.

Pat

[rikhall]

Originally Posted by saildork

Andy, when you get it all wired up, test it with a multimeter or a continuity tester (available in auto parts stores) so you don't have to raise the mast just to see if it works.

Pat

Pat makes an excellent point. Continuity testers are cheap and are good!

Because I like the "toys", I have a plastic box full of old electronics. I found a transformer for a modem or an old printer or some such thing and it was 120 AC in (that's the house voltage) and 12 DC out (that is my boat voltage) . I cut off the little end dongle and put two protected ends on it with little alligator clips. To test things on board I now have a 12 V DC source.



RIk

[tommays]

I just check everything with a 9 volt battery as i work So i dont have to wonder were the problem is later

And it cant do to much dammage if you screwed up

[jaschrumpf]

This thread has prompted me to ask a question: on a standard six-switch breaker panel like the one on my 1975 Newport 28, the switches are pre-marked as anchor light, running lights, cabin lights, bilge pump, aux 1 and aux 2. Where did they figure someone would put the steaming light connection? Do most people have a separately wired switch, perhaps connected to the hot lead for the running lights, since one would probably be using the steaming light in conjunction with the running lights?

On my boat a PO put the steaming light on Aux 1 and relabeled the switch; but why wouldn't the panel manufacturer account for it as they did for the other lights?

[Diamondjet]

IMHO it needs to be pointed out that if you have a two-pronged wire connector from the mast to the cabin it shall require upgrading to a four-pronged connector if you wish to have the steaming light and deck light on separate circuits. This would seem to me to be a necessary bit of information which was overlooked in this thread and may not be obvious to all (such as me). If this is so please forgive my resurrecting this thread.