Hi all, this is kind of a continuation of my post a few days ago, and quite long, so I apologize ahead of time. I went to the boat today and had the same condition - house bank "1" was flat, bank "2" was good. So, without bothering to check the voltage at the batteries, I pulled both house batteries and went to WM. First surprise was that my "house" batteries were both starting batteries. Nice! Wait, there is a second surprise. So, I bought 2 deep-cycle flooded batts at WM on sale and returned to the boat. Well, after installing them in bank "1", my battery capacity gauge still showed bank "1" as dead. Hmmmm. After much testing and continuity checking, I found that the PO had labeled the back of the battery switch opposite of what the terminals actually were. So the big cable labeled "1" was attached to a lug that was also labeled "1" with magic marker. Guess what? When I bought a new battery switch (don't ask!) and began to connect it, I discovered that I had unknowingly been using bank "2" when I thought it was bank "1".
Why is this an issue? Well, the two "dead" batteries that I turned in to WM for the core charge were actually the two that were OK. So I have two new wet-cell deep cycles and two dead-as-hell starting batteries. I don't know why I have two starting batteries, but I was thinking this would be a good time to add one more deep-cycle to the house bank and just one new starting battery. That would give me a house bank of 3 group 24 batteries and one good starting battery. Does this sound reasonable to any of you?
BTW, I bought a new battery switch because I kept getting wierd readings on my multimeter while trouble shooting. I am guessing that when using the meter on the back of the properly functioning battery switch, the following conditions should be found: When "off" there should NO continuity between ANY of the lugs. When in position #1 there should be continuity between the lug for #1 and the common ONLY. When on "all" there should be continuity between all the lugs. And when in position #2 there should only be continuity between the lug for #2 and the common. Does this sound correct?
If so, my old battery switch works just fine. In the meantime, I seem to be dumping $ for no good reason. On a side note, I did make some $ today at the boat swap meet in my marina. The trouble is I bought a bunch of other people's stuff
Thanks for reading and I will be very happy to try any suggestions that you are willing to make.