A/C wiring the C27 from scratch - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 33 Old 04-16-2010 Thread Starter
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GREAT explanations miti and hello. Thank you guys.

Miti, your explanation of the ground thing makes perfect sense. I needed that. And you're right, everything DC ends at the battery.

Now for a couple of minor clarifications Hello:

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
On a megayacht like the Smacktanic, one really could argue that just having the GFI and ONE main breaker for the two AC outlets, would be more than sufficient. I mean, if the breaker blows and you've only got two outlets, you can certainly figure out what to unplug, right?
Actually, I tell the ladies it's a "Maxi". I don't let on that I'm comparing it to an Opti - but hey, it's the whole E=MC+2 kind of thing (Einstein was a BFSailor you know).

Anyway, my whole design is built around the amp hours required to blast Barry White's "It's Ecstasy When You Lay Down Next to Me" at 103 decibels for 2 hours after sunset in the marina. I guess you're right about the 30 amp breaker.

As for the advanced troubleshooting on a tripped breaker in my design...you flatter me.

Seriously, at the end of the day, I'm sure there are a million reasons to spend a buttload of cash on the "best" possible set up. But, honestly, all I care about it what works at a basic level and what teaches me something in the process. And KISS works great at this point. I'm easily distracted.

You guys rock.

(PS - The USCG are obviously scared to death of Lake Travis. I've never seen them once. Lake Travis and Cape Horn - the two places in the world you'll never see the CG.)

S/V Dawn Treader - 1989 Hunter Legend 40

Last edited by smackdaddy; 04-16-2010 at 01:29 AM.
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post #22 of 33 Old 04-16-2010
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While reading this, I was about to say, do the 30a circuit as most marina's outside of L Travis are 30 or 50amps. This way if you ever got the chance to move the smacktanic off of Lk Travis, you could have power!

My rig is about the same size as your rig. maybe 2' longer. I have outlets in the Vberth area, under the nav desk and in the kitchen area. The vberth is seperate from the other two.

I also removed all the 110 lights when I redid the interior, and went with ALL DC lights. If I need a 110, a shop light suffices, or I'll get some other light for that need.

I would do which it appears you are, a panel, this would allow you more than one circuit or equal for what ever you need or want. IIRC I have 7 circuit breakers, 3 are in use as I recall.

Do not ask me about wiring on a boat, I try to read directions. DC for out in your yard, ie sprinkler systems, low voltage lighting etc. no issues! That is all in a days work. probably why I got rid of the AC lights, as the DC lights in the boat work like the lights/sprinkler valves I play with daily.

Enjoy the new digs in the smacktanic!

marty

She drives me boat,
I drives me dinghy!
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post #23 of 33 Old 04-16-2010
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Originally Posted by smackdaddy View Post
Cool. Thanks for taking the time to respond Stu.

So to make sure I understand - you say DON'T "ground" either the DC or AC? Simply run the AC ground wire into the "negative" side of the DC buss and call it a day?

And now that I'll be getting that breaker, let me make sure I have this part right as well...the line comes into the breaker from the plug. The ground wire comes out from that to the buss. Then the line for the outlets comes out of that breaker connection and runs to the first outlet (then onward). Right?
Heck, no. DC ground is either your (-) on a battery bank with no inboard engine, or your engine with an inboard from the (-) battery bank posts. The AC ground should NOT be connected to anything but the AC green ground of your shorepower inlet/AC system. Did I miss explaining that clearly in #1???

Three wires in (black hot, white neutral, green ground) from the shorepower cord to the inlet from the inlet to the breaker, from the breaker to receptacles. Three wires, all the way.

You really do need a book.

Stu Jackson, C34, 1986, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

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post #24 of 33 Old 04-16-2010
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Stu is right. Keep the AC and DC separate in your case. With an inboard allowing a path to earth the AC and DC grounds should be joined but there is no reason to in your case. Make sure there are 3 wires to each receptacle. Green, black, and white.

Brian
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post #25 of 33 Old 04-16-2010 Thread Starter
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You really do need a book.
You kidding me? For what I have to pay for the membership here?

I think I've got it now. Thanks. Watch for my story in the obits.

S/V Dawn Treader - 1989 Hunter Legend 40
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post #26 of 33 Old 04-16-2010
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Or the Darwin Awards website... Just remember the cable you've is only rated for 20 amps, and not as heavily insulated as most marine shore power cables... so use with caution at other marinas.

Quote:
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You kidding me? For what I have to pay for the membership here?

I think I've got it now. Thanks. Watch for my story in the obits.

Sailingdog

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post #27 of 33 Old 04-16-2010 Thread Starter
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Siiiiiggghhhh. Dog, baby, read my specs, will ya? I won't be going to other marinas.

It's like herding cats with you Dog.

S/V Dawn Treader - 1989 Hunter Legend 40
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Best to get a 30 amp cable with a 20 amp adaptor if travelling to other marinas much.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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So, in the end, the original diagram was right on the money. It's a glorified extension cord.

I love simple.

S/V Dawn Treader - 1989 Hunter Legend 40
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post #30 of 33 Old 04-19-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smackdaddy View Post
So, in the end, the original diagram was right on the money. It's a glorified extension cord.

I love simple.
Sometimes simple is too simple. SD gave you great advice about using a 3 circuit panel. Right off I see good reason to use two circuits. Battery charger and outlets. You probably want the battery charger running when the boat is unattended, but you probably also want to shut the outlets down.

Lets say you have a 110VAC lamp installed (I would never do that - DC LEDs only for me) and its sitting there on the table. You decide to go home but you forget to turn the lamp off. A wave comes, it falls over, and your boat burns to the bottom. BTW, thats why all my bulbs are LEDs.

Or you turn the lamp off but the brand new leak starts to drip on it. Best case there is that the breaker trips, but its the same breaker that is keeping that battery charger running.

There are many good reasons to turn the outlets off when you leave the boat. Your glorified extension cord approach means all or nothing.

Is it really all that expensive? The breaker is probably going to cost $50 by itself. For $150ish you get the main 30A breaker, the panel and 3 more 15A breakers. Someday you'll want the panel, then you'll have an extra breaker.

Helios
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