A couple of points... first, you need to have a proper shore power panel. A good one for a boat the size of the Smacktanic is this one
I'd also recommend getting a proper shorepower outlet. I like the newer design that looks like this:
Which is on sale over at SBO until the 12th or so
This cord is a bit better a design than the older twist-lock ones. It also has a built-in thermostat that shuts it down if the outlet itself starts to overheat. However, you do need to buy a regular 30 amp shorepower cord and hack the end off to install the plug that comes with this one. I just installed this on my boat.
The panel needs to be within 10' of the shorepower outlet to be compliant with ABYC code. The hot and neutral wires should be connected to the shorepower ganged breakers on the panel, and the ground should be connected to the boat's 12 VDC system as well as the AC panel ground bus strip. DO NOT CONNECT THE NEUTRAL AND GROUND LINES, which would be the normal practice on a terrestrial 110 VAC system. The connection between Neutral and Ground must be made on SHORE.
The back of the panel should have a non-conductive cover, especially if it is in close proximity to the 12 VDC wiring systems.
Each circuit should have a GFCI outlet as the first outlet, closest to the panel. The additional outlets do not need to be GFCI outlets, as they are protected by the first outlet on each circuit.
Ideally, you shouldn't run high voltage and low voltage wiring together.
If you have to do so, put the high-voltage wiring inside a cable loom to protect it from chafe and help identify it as high-voltage. I use color-coded cable ties to identify high-voltage wiring from 12 VDC wiring. It helps if you use YELLOW wire for the 12 VDC ground wires, since the black wire is used for 110 VAC hot wiring.