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post #1 of 8 Old 04-08-2010 Thread Starter
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battery switch wireing

Greetings,
I am re doing my battery connections and would like your input as to other ways to do it or if my hook up will work.
2 banks 210ah each B1 and B2. B3 is my starting battery. 2 switches(1,2,both,off)
My idea is to use B1 as main supply and switching to B2 when needed, this one runs the refridge and aux power in cockpit.
The present connections have B1 and B3 on one switch, switch 2 does nothing but serves as a buss to charge and connect to battery and fridge.
Thanks....



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post #2 of 8 Old 04-08-2010 Thread Starter
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Sorry about the size of the image but I can't make it biger... It is fine in my gallery ???


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post #3 of 8 Old 04-08-2010
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Conventional wisdom today is to put all your house batteries in one bank, not two.

Charging is (simplified version) a matter of percentanges - the bigger the bank the more and faster you can charge it due to acceptance rates and such.

Also the bigger the bank the less likely you discharge it as deeply, cycling the batteries and causing damage.

Hate to be a nay sayer, but start there and rethink the bank situation. It also simplifies switching, and you can have that for a freebie.

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post #4 of 8 Old 04-08-2010 Thread Starter
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Chuckles thank you for your response.
I like simple, but you know how every thing is about redundancy, the what if...

Keeping the two banks on one switch I guess would allow me to separate if need be. Then the other switch to the starter system... that is simple no?

But I have a question, my alternator has two out puts bat1 and bat2, can these two go to a common point or need to be separate? Just don't want to blow my alternator.

Where should the wires from alternator or charging connect to prevent draining to other banks?

Thanks again.....


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post #5 of 8 Old 04-08-2010
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Here is how my batt banks are set up:

2 Group 31 batts for the house. They are on a 1, 2, both, off. 99.9% of the time it is on both. The only reason I have the switch installed is because I already had it. It is nice to be able to disconnect the batts when working on the electrical without having to remove the leads from the batt posts.

1 Group 24 start batt. This runs everything I need for the Atomic 4 engine. i.e. the blower, starter, spark plugs, fuel pump, etc. This is controlled with a 4 pos ignition switch. I highly recommend getting the 4 pos switch. Life is much easier now that I installed it.

The house and start banks are connected through an ACR. I am able to bypass this with a combiner switch. I am also able to turn off the auto combining via a breaker on my elec panel. This came in handy when my house bank would not hold a charge, but my start bank was fine.

I run all charging sources (except shore charger) to my house bank. Since it has more capacity than the start bank when the two are combined it will not draw down the house bank too much to equalize the two.

I find this system to be very simple, redundant, and relatively affordable.
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Last edited by nickmerc; 08-18-2011 at 06:22 AM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 04-08-2010 Thread Starter
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Hope this diagram comes out right..

Would this be appropiate?


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post #7 of 8 Old 04-08-2010
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Just curious, why you have two house banks? You're really much better off having ONE larger house bank. The main reason for this is that a larger house bank actually is more efficient.

If you have two house banks at 225 amp-hours @ 12 VDC @ 20 hour rate, and your house load is 11 amps per hour, you'll have effectively 20 hours of run time, since you only want to drop the batteries down to the 50% level... However, if you have a single 450 amp-hour bank, by combining the two banks into a single larger one, you'd actually have more run time, since the battery bank is larger in proportion to the load, and you'd likely get more like 22-25 hours of time out of the larger bank.

This is due to the Peukert factor or rating, which basically states that the larger the load is relative to the battery size, the lower the effective amp-hour rating will be. This is why the 5-hour rating of a given battery is always lower than the 20-hour rating for the same batteries.
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Originally Posted by MiVelero View Post
Hope this diagram comes out right..

Would this be appropiate?

Sailingdog

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post #8 of 8 Old 04-11-2010
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Or there are the ideas included in this article: Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade - C34

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Last edited by Stu Jackson; 04-12-2010 at 01:38 AM.
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