Xantrex/Heart Freedom 25 -- How to connect Water Heater - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 65 Old 10-20-2010
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Here it is:
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Brian
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post #12 of 65 Old 10-20-2010 Thread Starter
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Remetau -- good input on the effectiveness of heating via wind. The second dump load is just in case the water is already hot.

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Here are a couple of options, based on some of the input here.

This first one uses a dump load controller to trigger a relay which lets powerf flow from the Freedom 25 inverter whenever the battery voltage starts getting too high from the wind generator charging.



This next picture uses a second inverter that I already have in place. The dump load controller sends battery power to that inverter, which in turn powers the hot water heater.



I made these diagrams this morning, before I realized there were dual input heating elements.

I'll have to make another diagram using the 110v/12v heating element.

Regards,
Brad

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Last edited by Bene505; 10-20-2010 at 07:38 PM.
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Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
Here it is:
Any idea how the 12v heating element knows when to turn off? The 110v circuit must run through a termostat of some type. I would think that the same thermostat couldn't be used with 12v at the same time.

I wouldn't want to create a boiling/exploding hot water heater ala mythbusters.

Regards,
Brad

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Here's the diagram with the dual element. It's much simpler, eliminating all relays.

Regards,
Brad


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post #15 of 65 Old 10-20-2010
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Brian's post is interesting and would be what you're looking for. Please note it's only 500 W at 120V. Most 120 V heaters are 1500 W.

All the 300 W and 500 W ratings mean is that it'll take longer to heat your water.

From your use descriptions, it sounds like what you're doing is elective, and not necessary.

Here's why:

When you've finished motoring to an anchorage, your water will be hot. After a day at anchor, not more hot water, but your wind machine will provide your hot water heating. No wind? Use your inverter, but that's not a good idea unless you have a HUGE house bank.

I wonder how the combined 12V/120V heater element is wired to have two sources to the same element without MANUAL switching between the two different voltage inputs.

If it was my boat, I'd keep it simple. Wind dump to house bank. Either choose 12V or combined 120V/12V heater element. Do the switching manually with a simple dump. Forget using the inverter for hot water.

Every time something else is added, it requires a backup, so plan on bypasses around what you add or backup "pieces" of "stuff."

Toggle switches are good bypasses!

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post #16 of 65 Old 10-20-2010
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One other thing

Unless your boat is actually wired that way, your diagram is wrong.

You should have an AC main breaker to an AC distribution panel.

The shorepower comes into the I/C, then back to the AC main breaker and then to the 110 Outlets and the hot water heater. The I/C has the transfer switch inside it.

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Originally Posted by Stu Jackson View Post
One other thing

Unless your boat is actually wired that way, your diagram is wrong.

You should have an AC main breaker to an AC distribution panel.

The shorepower comes into the I/C, then back to the AC main breaker and then to the 110 Outlets and the hot water heater. The I/C has the transfer switch inside it.
Yes, that's the way it is (or it will be once I install the Freedom 25 I/C). I think I typed that I was leaving the breakers out of the diagram to keep it simple.

Regards,
Brad

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post #18 of 65 Old 10-20-2010
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Brad, it's not the breakers, it's the basic flow of electrons in the wiring. As shown, for instance, you couldn't power your water heater form the Freedom I/C.

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post #19 of 65 Old 10-21-2010
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Stu
From what Brian said earlier I don't think he wants to heat water with the invertor.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour

Last edited by mitiempo; 10-21-2010 at 12:05 AM. Reason: add
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post #20 of 65 Old 10-21-2010
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Yup, could be, Brian, but the basic misunderstanding or misrepresentation of how the connections are made is what disturbs me, and they so should for him.

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