Given that the boat is only 27', here's what I would recommend.
First, get a new shorepower inlet. The old one is likely corroded and may have other issues as well. I'd recommend upgrading to one of the SmartPlug shorepower inlets and modifying a shorepower cord to go with it. The kit shown below has the inlet connector as well as a cord end connector that allows you to convert an existing 30 amp shorepower cable.
Click photo to see product page at manufacturer's website
You'll also want a Shorepower main AC panel. A good one for a boat the size of yours is this one:
Click on image to see product over at Sailorsolutions.com
This panel has the ABYC required double breaker for the hot and neutral lines, as well as bus bars for the neutral and ground wires and allows you to have three separate circuits.
For wiring, I'd recommend buying either Pacer Marine or Berkshire Cable, as they're both far better priced and IMHO better product than the Ancor that is typically found at West Marine and such. Pacer's website
has some pretty good deals on odds and ends.
You'll also want a good crimper and adhesive-lined, heat-shrink terminals to go with it. The crimper I recommend is this one:
Click to see product at Fastenal.com
You can use FTZ or KrimpaSeal terminals with it. Also, you should read Maine Sail's excellent tutorial on Marine Wiring Termination
Don't forget to add GFCI outlets on each circuit to protect you from ground faults.
IIRC, the Shorepower panel should be within 10' of the shorepower inlet cable to be compliant with ABYC standards. This is measured along the cable, not as the crow flies.
Also, if you're going to be re-wiring the boat's DC side, try to get YELLOW insulated wire for the DC side ground wires. This makes it safer to diagnose/troubleshoot, since any black wires are likely to be HOT 110 VAC wires then... and the two will be easily distinguishable from one another.
Finally, remember to jacket or enclose the 110 VAC wiring when it is running in proximity to low voltage wiring. Cable loom with brightly colored cable ties to differentiate it from the 12 VDC wiring is a good idea.