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Turns out I never downloaded the ARS-5, but I do have the ARS-4, which has the alternator temp sensors. It appears, then, that the ARS-5 has BOTH batt and alt sensors, so you should be able to do so.
Again, how you use it is important. As Maine Sail cautioned, the AGMs will accept far higher input amps than wet cells, so regardless of how you configure your banks, X amps out requiring charging of X amps back in, is gonna require a higher alternator output at engine startup, unless you use the Amp Manager (a royal pain) or the Small Engine Mode.
Another factor is that I let the engine idle for maybe 20 minutes or more as I bring up the anchor with a manual windless. At idle speed there should also be less amperage coming from the alternator and gives the 490 a/h battery bank more time to recover. I would think that the design of a 100 amp Balmar alternator would be such that it would not burn out at the high end of its output.
That's not necessarily true, because your alternator won't be putting much back at idle speed, even with your manual windlass, and 20 minutes is not a long time to "refill" a night's load when on the hook if you have a fridge. So when you eventually get up to cruising speed, you'll experience what I wrote about in the Hot Alternator link. Think about it. The Small Engine Mode as I've discussed it is right up your alley.
Stu Jackson, C34, 1986, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
Last edited by Stu Jackson; 11-04-2010 at 03:11 PM.