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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Electrical Systems
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  #11  
Old 11-02-2010
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That looks pretty good, and a great improvement. Sorry it's been so long, I've been busy with other stuff.

Couple of notes:

1. Even though you have dual outputs from your shorepower charger, your ACR will do the work of combining the two banks. Have the charger go to the house bank only. You should also find only ONE ground from the charger not two.

2. Wiring from C post to inverter: This may be a pretty hefty wire, because of the load. You should check on its sizing. There appears to be no advantage to having it go to the C post, rather run it to the house bank. I understand your concept of turning it off when the switch goes off, but if there's nothing connected on the AC side, there's no load.

3. Ground: You mentioned you're trying to figure that out. If all you have is an outboard motor, the (-) post of your batteries IS the ground. That wire, wherever it may go, seems useless. If you had an inboard engine, it would go there.

4. Outboard (+) output: As shown, it goes only to the start bank, regardless of the position of the 1-2-B switch. Since starting an engine takes very few amp hours (albeit a heavy load, but only for a short duration) out of a bank, I suggest considering moving it directly to the house bank. Your ACR will top off the start bank right away anyway when the engine is running, and will disconnect the two banks when the engine stops. Also consider wiring the ACR directly across the two banks, rather than at the switch. Different ends of the same wires, but less voltage drop when done directly. Don't forget the fuses.

5. Radio: There should be two power wires - one for power and one for memory. Run the memory wire as shown, but run the I/O radio power to the main panel.

Nice job, what did you use to draw it?

You might also be interested in this, which discusses the same issues you have, but for inboard motors, same concept though: Electrical Systems 101
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  #12  
Old 11-02-2010
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Looks good to me with Stu's recommendations.

The batteries should be fused - within 7" on the positive cable. The inverter positive input should be fused. And the charger output to house positive should also be fused.
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  #13  
Old 11-02-2010
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Diagram 2

Thank you, Stu and Brian.

Brian, now I have to learn all about fuses. What sizes, how to install them, etc... And I thought I was supposed to work on my sailing skills... By the way, it looks to me that right now there are no fuses.

Stu, I will go over your notes:

1. I am attaching a picture of the charger. However, it seems to me that I need a single bank charger since I have the ACR, right? I think I might still be able to change the order.

2. OK, but now I get into wire sizes. As you can see in the first picture of my original posting, there are three sizes, but at this point I can't tell their numbers. I'll look into this.

3. Clear

4. Did I get this one right? Yes, the fuses, I know.

5. I didn't know a radio has two power inputs.

I use Adobe Illustrator. If you need any help with it, let me know.

Thanks again.
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Emergency battery charge ?-charger.jpg   Emergency battery charge ?-charger_single.jpg   Emergency battery charge ?-diagram_version2.jpg  
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Old 11-02-2010
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The line that goes from the ACR to #1 on the switch should instead go to the positive post of the start battery.

The single bank charger will be a better choice.

The fuses are there to protect the wire from burning if there is a short circuit or a large overload. They should be sized less than the wires capacity in amps and be larger than the expected load.

For the main battery fuses the Blue Seas terminal fuse blocks are the easiest and mount right on the battery post. Shown below.

For the battery charger fuse the cable with an inline fuse that is rated higher than the charger output by a bit. For the 6 amp charger shown I would use a 8 or 10 amp fuse.
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Emergency battery charge ?-1.jpg  
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Thanks Brian.

Like this? With two new fuses?
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That looks good to me. Impressive drawings .
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Old 11-03-2010
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Brian's suggestion for the fuse at the bank is a good one if you've only got ONE wire to fuse. Instead, consider a Blue Seas Power Post, which is pretty much what it says: a post to gather the wires and their fuses and then run a single short wire to the house bank positive. BLUE SEA SYSTEMS Power Post Single Terminal Connectors at West Marine

If you do this, it's then called a PDP, positive distribution post. Do the same for the negatives (NDP) or use a bus bar for them, too. It avoids loading up the posts on the batteries. Reason is the weight of all those wires can strain the battery post.

Renumber the batteries to avoid confusion with the 1 & 2 on the switch. House bank 1 and 1A or 1A and 1B, reserve bank 2.
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Last edited by Stu Jackson; 11-03-2010 at 11:29 AM.
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OK, this is the latest and I'm not going to bother you anymore. If I don't have to.

I spoke with the charger manufacturer and they recommended I get the dual charger.

I also spoke with the ACR manufacturer and they said that the diagram works with the unit. They said that there is no need for a fuse on the outboard wire, because it will surely blow.

Somebody also mentioned that, since from C on the switch the wire only goes to a panel with circuit breakers, I don't really need fuses between the batteries and the switch. If they are needed, then I'll get a positive distribution post, as per Stu.


Thank you.
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Old 11-03-2010
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ABYC calls for a fuse on the battery positive within 7" of the post. The breaker panel you have wired to the common on the switch will protect the wires after the breakers but not before. The exception is if the battery is a dedicated start battery, but I fuse them as well. If a battery came loose in rough weather or was shorted by something you want the fuse to go. The fuse I pictured is the easiest way and saves on cables. They are also available with 2 studs and fuse holders.
The ACR could(should) be fused and just like fusing a start battery it depends what fuse you use. I have never had a problem with fuses on start batteries for diesels. The Blue Seas ANL fuses will withstand about 150% of their rating for 500 seconds.
Surprised they recommended the dual charger with an ACR connecting the banks.
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Brian, the tech at Guest said both will work, but he would go with the dual. I will get the single, it has more safety features, has a fuse already and there are two less wires to deal with.

I will also get the double terminal blocks (attached image) with 75A fuses for the ACR wires and 125A fuses for the switch wires. I am not sure if these are the right sizes, I've been reading all kinds of articles and documentation, my head is as big as a battery now, and I feel I need a fuse myself.

Also, what's up with the ABYC diagram? It says that wires between the battery and the switch do not require a fuse.

Best.
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Emergency battery charge ?-terminal-fuse-block.jpg   Emergency battery charge ?-21732.jpg  
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