Wiring & Installing A Battery Monitor - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 59 Old 06-14-2011
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Our instruction manual for our Link 2000 (which, BTW, is working just fine after more than about five years - lucky me!) includes instructions for making up your own twisted wiring loom: put the wires together and chuck 'em in a drill chuck! Really. You can make your own.

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post #32 of 59 Old 06-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
Rik

Fuse size is not super critical for main bank fuses. From Blue Seas:
Brian to the rescue again! OK - so, I looked on the "Allowable Amperage of Current Carrying Conductors Under 50V as suggested by the ABYC " chart and for AWG2 it says 210 Outside and 178 Inside.

So - a Terminal Fuse Block with a 175 or 200 amp fuse should do it, right? Or am I still missing something.

Thanks

Rik

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post #33 of 59 Old 06-14-2011
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Rik

I generally fuse somewhere in the middle between the expected load and the wire`s ampacity. Too low and you can get nuisance blows but you want the fuse to blow before the wire gets too warm.

But ANL fuses are different than other fuses. The 175 amp ANL will blow with a 290 amp load after 500 seconds. You don`t have to go too high.

Are you fusing the house bank or the start battery.

Brian
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post #34 of 59 Old 06-15-2011 Thread Starter
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Rik,

A 200 amp ANL or MRBF should be sufficient. If by chance you do get a "nuisance blow" the ABYC allows for the ability to go to 150% of the ampacity ratings of the wire. That would be 315A for outside engine spaces and 267A for inside engine spaces for 2GA 105C wire. Never round your fuse size up to the next size when going over 100% always go to the closest size down.

Also check your wires temp rating. We've been discussing 105C wire but many older boats are wired with 90C or lower..

We start our 4 cylinder 44hp on a 225A ANL but with 2/0 UL1426 wire I do have the ability to go larger and still be under 100%..

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 06-15-2011 at 07:56 AM.
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post #35 of 59 Old 06-15-2011
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Rik:

Nice job. Lose that wing nut, though...they're a NO-NO on a boat :-)

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post #36 of 59 Old 06-15-2011
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Why is a wing nut a no-no?

Maine -- after using the battery monitor for several months now, it is one of the best investments I've made. I can see what's going on, which is more important now that I have a freezer running in my absence, an inverter powering the microwave, and a wind generator providing power. Let me know if you are ever on Long Island or Block Island, so I can buy you beers. (Nantucket in August?)

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post #37 of 59 Old 06-15-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bene505 View Post
Why is a wing nut a no-no?

Maine -- after using the battery monitor for several months now, it is one of the best investments I've made. I can see what's going on, which is more important now that I have a freezer running in my absence, an inverter powering the microwave, and a wind generator providing power. Let me know if you are ever on Long Island or Block Island, so I can buy you beers. (Nantucket in August?)

Regards,
Brad
Because of the way they are used. The ABYC has made their use on batteries unacceptable. Simply put you can not apply the proper torque needed with your fingers..

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post #38 of 59 Old 06-16-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikhall View Post
Brian to the rescue again! OK - so, I looked on the "Allowable Amperage of Current Carrying Conductors Under 50V as suggested by the ABYC " chart and for AWG2 it says 210 Outside and 178 Inside.

So - a Terminal Fuse Block with a 175 or 200 amp fuse should do it, right? Or am I still missing something.

Thanks

Rik
Rik,

Just as a point of reference.. I was working on a boat yesterday with a Yanmar 2QM so I measured the inrush starting load on my Fluke 376.

Inrush is the absolute peak load the starter draws. This usually only occurs for about .22-.25 seconds max and is NOT long enough to blow a properly sized ANL, MRBF or Class T fuse.

The Fluke 376 captures DC inrush currents and can capture transients to less than 100ms or 0.1 second. It also captures average and minimum and maximum amperage and voltage.

The peak inrush captured on the 2QM Yanmar was 316.6A but remember the inrush is for less than about .25 seconds. We started the motor 6 times and got a low inrush of 277A high inrush of 316.6A. The average starting current was about 130A.

As you can see a 200A ANL can support 500% of it's rating for about .7 seconds. It can support over 300% for 1 second and 200% for as long as 5 seconds. You can push 150% through for up to 500 seconds.

Even if you figured an inrush that by freak chance lasted for 1 second, which just does not happen, a 200 amp ANL can supply 600A which is double what the peak inrush is for a 2QM.

200 AMP ANL Seconds vs. Amps


.7 Seconds =1000A
1 Second = 600A
5 Seconds = 400A
500 Seconds =300A



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post #39 of 59 Old 06-16-2011
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Many thanks Main Sail. Excellent remarks, you were just missing one line from your comments:

Either:

1 - Here's the chart, yes, a 175 or 200 amp fuse would be good

or

2 - Here's the chart, no, a 175 or 200 amp fuse would not be good - this size ___ would be better.

I think you are saying "yes", based upon your amp readings on the 2QM and the chart above.

Thanks

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post #40 of 59 Old 06-16-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikhall View Post
Many thanks Main Sail. Excellent remarks, you were just missing one line from your comments:

Either:

1 - Here's the chart, yes, a 175 or 200 amp fuse would be good

or

2 - Here's the chart, no, a 175 or 200 amp fuse would not be good - this size ___ would be better.

I think you are saying "yes", based upon your amp readings on the 2QM and the chart above.

Thanks

Rik
Yes a 200 A ANL or MRBF would be fine. You have 2GA wire which can handle 210A so a 200A is a fine choice for your engine.

The particular boat I was working on had 2/0 wire and a 225A MRBF but a 200A would have been fine too...

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