Help: Simple Shore Power System

YeahJohn · #1 (**permalink**) 01-12-2011

Okay. I have searched all over and can only find over the top applications for shore power systems. I need 120v on the boat for basic evening fun and summer time adventures. This is what I am looking at:

50' 30amp cord
30amp Plug inlet
10' of 10g triplex
3 Circuit Blue Sea System AC Control Panel (8025)
30' of 14g triplex
3 15amp gfci's

Is this complete? Please help. Here is my very bad diagram...

sailingdog · #2 (**permalink**) 01-12-2011

Instead of the Blue Sea panel, I would recommend using this one from Sailor Solutions:

The BlueSea 8025 doesn't have the neutral bus bar. It also doesn't have the ganged double breaker required by ABYC for the HOT and NEUTRAL incoming Shorepower lines. It also doesn't have an RP indicator. Finally, it doesn't give you the option to have multiple AC circuits if you set it up with a ganged breaker, limiting your flexibility and how you can setup your boat. One breaker should be dedicated to a shorepower-based battery charger. Then you can have two other circuits for outlets and such.

IIRC, the shore power panel is supposed to be within 10' of the shorepower inlet as measured along the wire and that the 110 VAC wire should be jacketed or run through a conduit/insulated loom and kept separate from 12 VDC wiring.

How many separate circuits are you planning on setting up. You only need ONE GFCI outlet per circuit, and it needs to be installed as the outlet closest to the panel on each circuit. In your diagram, you'd need ONE GFCI and two standard outlets. Putting multiple GFCI outlets on a single circuit can cause serious troubleshooting and maintenance headaches.

For the Shore Power inlet, I personally prefer using a newer design SmartPlug, which looks like this:

I think it is a better design and safer than a standard shorepower twist lock type connector.

BTW, click on either photo to see the product page for it.

YeahJohn · #3 (**permalink**) 01-12-2011

AC Main + 1 Position - PN 8029 - Blue Sea Systems I was looking at the 8029 I think but the one you posted looks great. Is 10awg triplex okay for inlet to panel? is 14awg triplex okay for the gfci and plugs? Thanks.

mitiempo · #4 (**permalink**) 01-12-2011

Yes, 10/3 wire is fine for shorepower inlet to main panel, and 14/3 to each individual circuit. The 8029 works but is pretty minimal. In this case 1 gcfi and the additional outlets downstream can be standard outlets. On my boat I have each outlet on its own circuit and all are gcfi. I am a liveaboard and that way it is harder to overload an individual circuit.
On the other hand if there will be a battery charger hard wired a panel like dog showed will be more flexible, allowing for charger, outlets, and a spare.

I also like the Smartplug and have installed 2 in the last month. The conventional ones (designed about 75 years ago) tend to move or vibrate until a bit loose and then they arc, especially under winter loads like heaters, and eventually burn. The Smartplug will shut the power off if it gets too hot but its design is much better to start with.
Examples of shorepower gone bad. The first is from a 48' Grand Banks, the second from a 40' Chinese Junk, and the last from a 42' commercial troller, all wood boats. The last was the worst and the skipper was very glad he was aboard at the time it destroyed itself.

sailingdog · #5 (**permalink**) 01-12-2011

Yup...as Mitiempo said... should be fine provided it is marine grade wiring. I recommend Berkshire or Pacer Marine wire, but GenuineDealz has good prices on marine wire as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by YeahJohn

Is 10awg triplex okay for inlet to panel? is 14awg triplex okay for the gfci and plugs? Thanks.

nickmerc · #6 (**permalink**) 01-12-2011

If you like Blue Sea, just look around at their site. They have AC panels that are just as nice ad SD showed. If you have room where your panel will be mounted get one that allows for a few extra circuits.
________
California medical marijuana dispensary

75R20 · #7 (**permalink**) 01-13-2011

While what has been said is the proper and correct way to do it, there are other ways to accomplish what you want, to help determine what you need. My moorage is owned by the city, and they don't use "Marine" twist lock power cords, just 110volt standard cordsets is all that is needed. (I also have a nice Marinco 30amp cord for when at different moorages). My point is this, with the proper cordset for where you are, you can add a GFI (in line) to the cord set if you just need it for a few times a year, and don't leave stuff running on the boat while you are away for extended times. Different areas use different set-ups and this is what is common for my moorage, and many owners don't even bother with the GFI. Not saying it's right for long time use, but if you are looking for a temporary solution.....that is a choice that you can make.
Best of luck
Kary
S/V Mariah
#49080

YeahJohn · #8 (**permalink**) 01-13-2011

I am looking to go with a 30amp system, but thanks for the less expensive option. One GFCI is $15 and it is worth every penny to have that inline, just saying.

smackdaddy · #9 (**permalink**) 01-13-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75R20

While what has been said is the proper and correct way to do it, there are other ways to accomplish what you want, to help determine what you need. My moorage is owned by the city, and they don't use "Marine" twist lock power cords, just 110volt standard cordsets is all that is needed. (I also have a nice Marinco 30amp cord for when at different moorages). My point is this, with the proper cordset for where you are, you can add a GFI (in line) to the cord set if you just need it for a few times a year, and don't leave stuff running on the boat while you are away for extended times. Different areas use different set-ups and this is what is common for my moorage, and many owners don't even bother with the GFI. Not saying it's right for long time use, but if you are looking for a temporary solution.....that is a choice that you can make.
Best of luck
Kary
S/V Mariah
#49080

+1.

I shore-powered my C27 for almost nothing. It hasn't burned down...yet.

If you're only using power while you're hanging around the boat - it really doesn't have to be overkill.

YeahJohn · #10 (**permalink**) 01-13-2011

smackdaddy. What does your solution consist of exactly? I have 30amp at the marina and right now I have it running to a typical household extension cord with twist on plug-end (from previous owner), not a 30amp cord. It works and the only think I run is my 10 amp charger. Is there any way to improve on this with out spending the $500 in parts to upgrade to a full on system. I would not mind having plugs around the boat and the charger all integrated into the system but for now I am willing to with what is safe (or safer) and cheap.