Instead of the Blue Sea panel, I would recommend using this one from Sailor Solutions:
The BlueSea 8025 doesn't have the neutral bus bar. It also doesn't have the ganged double breaker required by ABYC for the HOT and NEUTRAL incoming Shorepower lines. It also doesn't have an RP indicator. Finally, it doesn't give you the option to have multiple AC circuits if you set it up with a ganged breaker, limiting your flexibility and how you can setup your boat. One breaker should be dedicated to a shorepower-based battery charger. Then you can have two other circuits for outlets and such.
IIRC, the shore power panel is supposed to be within 10' of the shorepower inlet as measured along the wire and that the 110 VAC wire should be jacketed or run through a conduit/insulated loom and kept separate from 12 VDC wiring.
How many separate circuits are you planning on setting up. You only need ONE GFCI outlet per circuit, and it needs to be installed as the outlet closest to the panel on each circuit. In your diagram, you'd need ONE GFCI and two standard outlets. Putting multiple GFCI outlets on a single circuit can cause serious troubleshooting and maintenance headaches.
For the Shore Power inlet, I personally prefer using a newer design SmartPlug, which looks like this:
I think it is a better design and safer than a standard shorepower twist lock type connector.
BTW, click on either photo to see the product page for it.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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