In or Out the Mast ?

Squidd · #1 (**permalink**) 12-19-2011

When I got my boat the VHF antenna and the anchor light wires (2) were run externally down the back stay to the transom thru the locker and to panel and radio respectively...both are functional...

I do not have a steaming light... in the process of wireing one in I question weather I should run it "up, out and down" the backstay with the others...run it down and route it thru the saloon to DC panel ( leave others external)... or re route all the wires and antenna thru the keel steped mast- to saloon-to panel...?

The external wires are long enough to go down the mast tube and out a hole at base of mast,(which is already there) but I would have to cut them and splice in a "disconnect" for each as I pull the mast to transport home for the winter...and then extend them to the appropriate place in DC panel and to radio...

The other concern I have is "noise" from the wires banging around in the mast tube at dock and mooring...I've read of several peoples "complaints" of such, but not certain of their solution...

Is it worth the compromise of noise and extra work for the "protection" of the wires in mast, or are they fine running external (they are weather resistant cables) and I should just work out the steaming light issue...?

Minnewaska · #2 (**permalink**) 12-20-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squidd

....(they are weather resistant cables)...?

This is the biggest issue in my opinion. UV will eventually get to them, resistant or not. I would run them all inside for this reason.

On a lesser scale, I think it looks better not to have wires wrapped to the backstay. There is also a mechanical exposure to exterior wires being caught on something and ripped off.

Squidd · #3 (**permalink**) 12-20-2011

And the look tacky, I just didn't want to eliminate one issue and create another..

Lake Superior Sailor · #4 (**permalink**) 12-20-2011

I have mine run inside & slapping wasn't a problem untill; I added radar, now I have to find a way to correct the problem! I have been thinking of attaching closed foam at 3 ft. intervals shaped to fit mast on the radar line. Or what?--Dale

Squidd · #5 (**permalink**) 12-20-2011

On another forum it was suggested to use plastic wire ties every so often on the wire bundle, leave the "tails" on so they hold the wire from the sides of the tube..

I think I will be re-routing all my wires this way...

mitiempo · #6 (**permalink**) 12-20-2011

Wire ties work well.

smurphny · #7 (**permalink**) 12-20-2011

In mast is surely a cleaner way to do it. It also shortens wire length. Loose wires run up inside my mast and don't make any noise I notice. When it becomes necessary to replace the VHF wire, I plan to run a pc. of 1 1/4" schedule 40 up inside the mast with holes spaced to align with VHF, anchor, spreaders, steaming, radar, and outlet hole at base of mast. A new wiring harness for all could be done this way. Will secure it with 2 holes drilled every 4' to loop zip ties through. Some mast designs have a conduit built into the shape but I think a conduit can be incorporated like this without too much problem. I did away with the incredibly inaccessible wire-down-through-mast step and into beam setup as originally built (a REALLY bad idea) and ran all my wires out through a hole in the mast base, over the deck in a pc. of flex conduit and down through fittings on the port dorade box. This makes disconnecting easy, including being able to easily remove the entire radar dome/cable setup during storage. Getting the dome off really makes it easier to deal with moving the mast around and just throwing a tarp over the boat during the winter.

Barquito · #8 (**permalink**) 12-20-2011

I had wires that came out of the mast base and into a socket on the deck about 6" from the mast. I found I was always stepping on, or tripping over the sockets. One wire eventually failed. If the cabes and wires have enough slack, and a connector, shouldn't be a problem disconnecting from inside the mast when lowering the mast. I too, need to run a VHF and few other wires up the mast this winter, so I would be interested in any input.

smurphny · #9 (**permalink**) 12-20-2011

I used an LB elbow into the dorade box and a piece of Etcoflex type conduit which really protects the wires. I was going to glass in a "tunnel" but have not had any issue with it although I suppose it could roll under foot. The wires run directly to a block down in the head area, without any connectors/plugs to corrode away or get wet on deck. When the mast comes down it is very easy to just disconnect all the wires below, pull them up through and lower the mast. Having wires drilled through and buried in the support beam is just a terrible idea. The connector in the mast is inaccessible when it fails to make contact and many if not most boats with these designs wound up with a rotted header beam when the hole poked for the wires inevitably leaked with no good way for that water to ever evaporate. When there is a problem you can't see the wires to check 'em out. I dug out all the core under the step (another really bad idea) and made the deck solid glass 12" around the mast. This unloads directly on the header and there is now no way for any water to get through and eventually rot anything.

Barquito · #10 (**permalink**) 12-20-2011

Quote:

boats with these designs wound up with a rotted header beam when the hole poked for the wires inevitably leaked with no good way for that water to ever evaporate.

Yikes. I will have to poke around my Alberg designed Bristol 27 (same beam supported mast step).