Best solar panels for the buck - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 60 Old 01-18-2012
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With the Kyocera 135, do you need a charge controller if you have an Inverter controlled by a Link2000 ? Ie; can you hook up the 2 panels direct to the inverter and let the Link Controller do the work? Or do you still need a seperate solar panel controller like the Blue sky SB2000E?

s/v Talisman 1979 SJ45 #179
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post #32 of 60 Old 01-18-2012
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You would still need a controller.

The only way you could possibly wire to the inverter would be the DC input which is a direct connection to the battery bank.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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post #33 of 60 Old 01-18-2012
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6463 alloy

Basically the same as 6063 (very common alloy) but it handles the bright finish anodizing better.

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We checked with the local metals outfit for the best type of aluminum to be used in the construction of the frame for solar panels. They recommended aluminum alloy 6463 bright dipped anodized. They said this is what the tuna towers are mostly built from. Has anyone experience with this or other aluminum alloys? With respect to angle it only comes in 2 X 2 X 1/4.
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post #34 of 60 Old 01-19-2012 Thread Starter
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Basically the same as 6063 (very common alloy) but it handles the bright finish anodizing better.
Thanks. It looks totally appropriate for this application.
Pete
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post #35 of 60 Old 01-19-2012 Thread Starter
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My Morningstar Tristar MPPT 45 controller arrived yesterday. I'm really impressed by its construction and features. It has a maximum PV (input) voltage rating of 150 Volts and maximum PV (input) current of 45 Amps so it's a bit overkill, but should provide great performance. It can handle system (battery) Voltages from 12 to 48. I watched a training video on it at:
http://www.morningstarcorp.com/en/su...cfm?ItemId=444
and it uses a very fast complete sweep of PV IV curve to set maximum power point; pretty sophisticated overall. Competitors do dynamic sweeping which just looks at a limited portion of the IV curve near the current setting. This can miss better power points when the IV curve has bumps in it. This is, of course, a bit of marketing; not sure to what degree it's significant.

My (two 200 Watt) panels have been delayed and won't arrive until Monday. This will give me a bit more time to fine tune the solar mounting. The support frame and tilt lock will be constructed from bright dipped anodized aluminum 6463 and the support structure from type 316 stainless steel.
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post #36 of 60 Old 01-19-2012
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LOL. Don't think so, but feel free to improve upon our ideas!
Pete
Too bad, I might have covered all the costs for yours and mine both.

But I understand.

regards,
Brad

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post #37 of 60 Old 01-19-2012 Thread Starter
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Too bad, I might have covered all the costs for yours and mine both.

But I understand.

regards,
Brad
Now you tell me, LOL! I have come up with some improvements to the tilt lock which I'll document once implemented. According to the new concept the tilt lock pin will pass through holes in stainless on both sides of aluminum to provide better support. This will be done by using a jaw such as this:
Threaded T-Bolt Toggle Jaw -Left Hand
This device also allows fine adjustment to align with aluminum via the threads. The remaining issue is how to best compensate for loss of strength in vertical 1" stainless tubing caused by 1/4" hole.
Pete

Last edited by prroots; 01-19-2012 at 06:27 AM.
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post #38 of 60 Old 01-19-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prroots View Post
Now you tell me, LOL! I have come up with some improvements to the tilt lock which I'll document once implemented. According to the new concept the tilt lock pin will pass through holes in stainless on both sides of aluminum to provide better support. This will be done by using a jaw such as this:
Threaded T-Bolt Toggle Jaw -Left Hand
This device also allows fine adjustment to align with aluminum via the threads. The remaining issue is how to best compensate for loss of strength in vertical 1" stainless tubing caused by 1/4" hole.
Pete
OK, I didn't think you'd invent, design, build, test, etc. something and then give me a set of low-production run devices (a.k.a. expensive prototypes) for free. That wouldn't be right!

I've been thinking about a simple release system. The (one large) panel would be level unless I pulled the pins and let it hang down. I'm seeing this as more for winter snow protection and for fitting into slips without being charged for more length-over-all.

Regards,
Brad

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Last edited by Bene505; 01-19-2012 at 09:45 AM.
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post #39 of 60 Old 02-01-2012 Thread Starter
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Can anyone recommend some type of flexible conduit to protect our AWG 8/2 (conductor) wire from the UV? The cable itself is flat and about 5/8" wide. Thanks
Pete
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post #40 of 60 Old 02-01-2012
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heater hose.

It's 5 o'clock somewhere:


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