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  #11  
Old 08-03-2012
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Re: Redoing shore power correctly

(What would the nautical term for "street legal" be?)

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Old 08-03-2012
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Re: Redoing shore power correctly

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaschrumpf View Post
I was planning on using the crimped terminals with the marine wire. Good to see a validation of that idea.

Is the purpose of the stranded, tinned wire for flexibility (the stranding) and resistance to salt air (the tinning)? Is not having it on the boat something the Coasties would bust you for? I want to be sure I keep the boat "street legal."

(What would the nautical term for "street legal" be?)

Thanks again to everyone who responded!
I have never heard of the Coast Gaurd looking for anything except safety (Flairs/fire extinguishers/floatation devices etc), registration, and sanitation. I don't think they are the enforcement of the other systems on board. Your insurance company and there required survey may be very concerned.
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Old 08-06-2012
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Re: Redoing shore power correctly

A reverse polarity indicator is also an ABYC requirement as are ELCI's (equipment leakage circuit interrupter) on new installations. Even though you have a minimal AC system, you may want to consider an ELCI to be in compliance with ABYC since you are doing a rewire.

Eric
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Old 08-06-2012
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Re: Redoing shore power correctly

Quote:
Originally Posted by fairbank56 View Post
A reverse polarity indicator is also an ABYC requirement as are ELCI's (equipment leakage circuit interrupter) on new installations. Even though you have a minimal AC system, you may want to consider an ELCI to be in compliance with ABYC since you are doing a rewire.

Eric
Eric,

As far as I know the extension for the deadline is still in place for ELCI's as the manufacturers are still getting them sorted out. I agree 100% that it is the best way to go but if false trips are still an issue I'd hate to recommend someone spend $140.00 + on a breaker that may not yet be ready for public consumption...

I just posted this question on the ABYC forum so hopefully John or someone in the office will answer. I have installed a few so far, and they seem to be working fine, but the ABYC extended the deadline because not all manufacturers had them sorted out.
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Re: Redoing shore power correctly

Last I heard, the requirement was delayed til Dec 31st of this year.

Eric
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Old 08-13-2012
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Haven't blow up yet!

Went to the boat this weekend and my Blue Sea main+6 panel wasn't in yet, so I picked up the main breaker to put in between the shore power plug and where the panel will be (it's about a 15 foot run). Pulled out the old Romex house wire and ran nice new Triplex 10 gauge wire from the shore plug to the corner where I put the main breaker. Used all crimp wire ends everywhere. Flipped the switch and the little green Power light came on. No smoke or sparks!

Can't wait to get the main panel and outlets in.
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Old 08-13-2012
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Lightbulb Shore Power breaker location note

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaschrumpf View Post
Went to the boat this weekend and my Blue Sea main+6 panel wasn't in yet, so I picked up the main breaker to put in between the shore power plug and where the panel will be (it's about a 15 foot run). Pulled out the old Romex house wire and ran nice new Triplex 10 gauge wire from the shore plug to the corner where I put the main breaker. Used all crimp wire ends everywhere. Flipped the switch and the little green Power light came on. No smoke or sparks!

Can't wait to get the main panel and outlets in.
It's my understanding that the max. distance from inlet to main breaker is 3 meters... which is a tad under 10 feet of wire. ABYC requirement, and most surveyors and insurers probably would require this too.

If you start looking at newer boats, it's getting common to find that the visible shore power inlet is backed up with a plastic or frp box with a main breaker mounted on it. You then raise a nearby laz hatch or similar access to turn on that breaker. That way the wiring "run" is under a foot.
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Old 08-15-2012
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Now this makes no sense

I'm installing the Blue Seas part 8077 Main breaker, with the "safety ground screw on panel back." I'm doing this because the run to the distribution panel is over ten feet, so I got a utility box to put the switch in. All is well until I go to make the connections. The neutral and hot terminals have big, robust screw connectors to which my crimped ring terminal connect very satisfactorily.

However the ground terminal is a puny, what looks like #6 - 1/2", screw with a 3/8" nylon nut. I've got two 10 gauge wire terminals coming at that and there's just no room for two ring terminals plus the internal ring connector.

What gives? Am I missing something here? The schematic makes it very clear that the AC ground and device ground are supposed to connect there, but there's hardly room for it. Is there some electrician's trick I need to know about?
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Old 08-15-2012
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Re: Redoing shore power correctly

You should be able to stack the ring terminals on the machine screw - I think it is #8 - if there isn't enough room get a longer machine screw the same size.
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  #20  
Old 08-16-2012
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Re: Redoing shore power correctly

The real problem is the lack of space around the screw. I wish I'd taken a picture of the back side of the unit, but you can get an idea from the front side:



That center top black screw is the ground terminal. It's not captive to the unit and the two LEDs are on posts that extend back into the body nearly 3/4"; so while you're trying to hold the screw in place and get all three ring terminals stacked onto a less-than-1/2 terminal post, you're also trying to fit them in between the two LED posts sticking up AND the edge of the utility box case, which is less than a 1/4" away.

A very tight fit.
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