Autohelm ST4000 Wheel pilot

[fallard]

We had an older wheelpilot (Autohelm 4000?) that kept breaking down. First the belt, then a shear pin, then the plastic gears, then more shear pins. It went back to Raytheon several times. About a dozen years ago we replaced it with a below deck autopilot.

It was a lot more money, but well-worth it for the reliability and robust performance. We can use in in much heavier weather than the old wheelpilot.

[PalmettoSailor]

Originally Posted by RecoveringRacer

Although Raymarine is poor at supporting older products, I have a contact with a fairly large inventory of parts for older Autohelm/Raymarine autopilots who also does repairs--he also bought my remaining inventory when I retired. Very few of his items are listed on eBay, but you can contact him there through the ID kodiakjack99.

Thanks to this thread I have the part I needed for my obsolete autohelm on the way from kodiakjack.

I saw this thread yesterday and contacted him through ebay and lo and behold he had the part I needed and its on the way. As you said he only had a few things advertised, so you have to ask if he has what you need.

[KentIslandSailor]

Does anyone know how to open up the cover to get to the belt? The book says "remove front cover by pulling it up and away from the back cover" some FAQ on the Raymarine site said a special tool is required. "Raymarine offers a wheel drive service kit, part number D169, which should restore the drive unit to like-new operation. The kit contains a custom tool for opening the wheel drive unit, a replacement belt, waterproof grease and instructions. " Does anyone know what this custom tool is ?

[CaptainDan99]

The "special tool" is a plastic wedge. If you have the black drive, seperate the two halfs by placing a screwdriver between them and twist. A second screwdriver, placed 4-5 inches away from the first, will make it easier. It just snaps apart.

[KentIslandSailor]

Thanks, I figured as much. Mine is a "grey" colored unit. I tried prying it off with two 1.5" wide wood chisels and several screw drivers, it doesn't want to budge, and I'm afraid of breaking something and then will have to replace the entire thing.

[CaptainDan99]

If you have the grey unit (mark II), make sure that you have removed the three brackets that hold the wheel to the spokes of your helm wheel. If I remember, when those are attached, the halfs won't seperate.

[rich270]

I read below that there are issues finding a replacement for the, per diagram, part #2, the housing for the black body ST 4000+. It failed so I took it apart and found 2 rollers snapped off... right after a crew member "forced" the wheel without disengaging the pilot. Nice, huh? So... are these findable or does someone have an old part I can acquire? Your thoughts and input appreciated.

[RecoveringRacer]

On my own wheelpilot installation, I opted to use the exposed motor and belt that was supplied with the Autohelm 3000 and ST3000--even though I was using the then state-of-the-art S1G autopilot and ST6002 control unit. My choice was made because it was simpler, and because it could be easily removed when not needed.

I suspect the enclosed ST4000 design was partially dictated by safety issues, which I appreciate now that I have a four-year old grandson helping me in the cockpit. (I'm presently working on a below-deck linear actuator installation.)

[Faster]

Originally Posted by rich270

I read below that there are issues finding a replacement for the, per diagram, part #2, the housing for the black body ST 4000+. It failed so I took it apart and found 2 rollers snapped off... right after a crew member "forced" the wheel without disengaging the pilot. Nice, huh? So... are these findable or does someone have an old part I can acquire? Your thoughts and input appreciated.

These broken plastic rollers are a common failure point on the older black drive units. I've seen some people cobble them back together with new attachments (putting small bolts in) so I guess it's doable... I do believe the newer (grey) units are available separately and they should work with whatever controller you're using.