Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 48 Old 06-18-2011
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Sad to say I also am dealing with this same exact problem. Looking to check all the wiring next. New boat to me. The former owner says it definitely worked. It had been sitting on the hard for the last two seasons. So........
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post #12 of 48 Old 06-19-2011
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Follow-Up. I think mine is Kaput

So as a follow-up, I got my VOM fixed with a new battery. Tested the volts to the motor while my wife pressed +/- 10 deg on the course while in AUTO mode on the control. I got intermittent 0 to 2 V, more times 0 than 2. Power to unit is 12V. Unless the conductivity of the wire from the control head to the motor is intermittent, I think the unit is done.

So it is off to find a new control head unless someone has any other ideas.

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post #13 of 48 Old 07-05-2012
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Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

I came across this thread via a google search. My ST4000 has the exact symptoms as listed in DrB's thread. Was there a solution?
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post #14 of 48 Old 07-05-2012
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Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

Leegauge

If you have checked the 12 volt supply at the head and it is OK, the "Low Batt" message is the result of a problem inside the control head. It is usually caused by a component that has shorted somewhere on the circuit board and is not caused by one specific problem. I repair autopilots and can probably fix it. You can contact me through Sailnet.

CD
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post #15 of 48 Old 07-05-2012
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Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

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I came across this thread via a google search. My ST4000 has the exact symptoms as listed in DrB's thread. Was there a solution?
Leegauge,

I called Raymarine and the told me to send the unit in and they would test and evaluate. If it was fixable, they would tell me how much and if I authorized it, fix. It turned out that my CPU board was shot.

The replaced and charged me $275. They had it turned around in under 4 days. However, I live pretty close to their service center in New Hampshire.

CaptainDan99 I believe also can fix these things, and may be able to do it at a lower cost, but since Raymarine is so close, I gave them first shot. You could PM CaptainDan99 and see what his cost would be if you had to replace the CPU board. $275 included the shipping back to me also.

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post #16 of 48 Old 07-18-2012
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Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

Seems as tho that unit was not the best. HERE is another thread at another forum about someone with some issues and an ST4000+ unit. Along with how he fixed it. Not saying any of the above peoples problem is equal, just another person with issues.

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post #17 of 48 Old 07-19-2012
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Re: Follow-Up. I think mine is Kaput

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Originally Posted by DrB View Post
So as a follow-up, I got my VOM fixed with a new battery. Tested the volts to the motor while my wife pressed +/- 10 deg on the course while in AUTO mode on the control. I got intermittent 0 to 2 V, more times 0 than 2. Power to unit is 12V. Unless the conductivity of the wire from the control head to the motor is intermittent, I think the unit is done.

So it is off to find a new control head unless someone has any other ideas.

DrB
OK, i know this is an old post, but let me put something straight. The ST4000+ outputs pulses to the motor. A simple voltmeter will not give you correct reading on that, and you will probably see something around 2V.

Since I was just repairing a faulty control head I got for a couple of buck on ebay, I found a thing, which might be a design problem. If the brass studs are screwed in to hard to the instrument, the case will crack and water can ingress from the behind. This particular instrument got a couple of drops of salty water just next to some of the analogue circuitry (that is where the screw is), which is even more sensitive to stray currents caused by the water. I soaked the circuit board in distilled water, then in isopropyl alcohol, dried it, patched the solder mask on the circuit board and epoxy'd the crack on the case, and now I have a working instrument :-)

It is fairly easy to disassemble a ST4000+, worth checking for water ingress.
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post #18 of 48 Old 10-15-2012
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Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

Please forgive my ignorance, people, but although mechanically minded ( I have just installed a new diesel engine in my sailboat - 35 ft Bruce Roberts), I am a complete beginner when it comes to Autohelm ST4000, which came with the boat and was probably installed over 15 years ago. To start with, when the engaging lever is up and I press +10 or - 10 on the control panel, the motor whirrs but the wheel doesn't turn at all, and certainly not the required 10 degrees + or -. This I take to mean that there is a clutch or a belt slipping inside the unit. Any tips before I start to take this thing apart to find the problem? Are there still parts available?....many thanks for your patience people.
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post #19 of 48 Old 10-16-2012
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Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

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Please forgive my ignorance, people, but although mechanically minded ( I have just installed a new diesel engine in my sailboat - 35 ft Bruce Roberts), I am a complete beginner when it comes to Autohelm ST4000, which came with the boat and was probably installed over 15 years ago. To start with, when the engaging lever is up and I press +10 or - 10 on the control panel, the motor whirrs but the wheel doesn't turn at all, and certainly not the required 10 degrees + or -. This I take to mean that there is a clutch or a belt slipping inside the unit. Any tips before I start to take this thing apart to find the problem? Are there still parts available?....many thanks for your patience people.
Ashley,
Welcome to sailnet. The ST 4000 is no longer manufactured or supported by Raymarine. Look through this thread and you will see that member CaptainDan99 repairs these units and he may have parts as well if you contact him.

As for your question about operation, the clutch lever should be in the DOWN position (I am assuming you have a wheel pilot) and all tension off the wheel lock. In this configuration pushing the + or - 10 should cause the wheel to turn. It won't turn much and it may move in small jerking motions, that is normal. If yo still get the whirring and no movement when the lever is locked down then you probably have a broken gear or belt inside the wheel drive unit. Remove your wheel and there are a few screws on the back of the wheel pilot that allow it to separate into two halves.

Good luck and et us know what you find.

SV S.S.R.I
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post #20 of 48 Old 10-16-2012
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Re: Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

Thank you Silvio. Well I have got the wheel off, and in fact the motor with it. BUT, don't laugh, there don't seem to be any screws at the back holding the two parts togther! It looks like it could be a push fit to me, do the two halves maybe pop apart? I can see the shredded remains of what looks like a belt through the gap. I don't want to break the unit by forcing it so do you know if some models just pop apart under pressure?

Many thanks.

Ashley
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