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Autohelm ST4000 Plus problems

45K views 47 replies 21 participants last post by  szigi 
#1 ·
[Did the best I could with other threads on AH 4000 and don't see answers to my issues - thus this post]. My setup is an 'Autohelm ST4000 Plus' on a bank of 4 AH instruments - depth, speed, wind, and the autopilot. It's a wheel lock system. The lock seems to work fine, and from other posts I don't believe the instruments are interconnected, as the light only works on one of them and doesn't affect the others, but that's just background context. When I bought the boat a year ago the autopilot worked on a sea trial.

In priority order the issues are:
1. Can't steer via autopilot even with the engine running. It now veers all over the place (well, I can't wait long enough to find out what it might EVENTUALLY do). Initially it had a course that was way off. I tried the calibration procedure on SF Bay and did 6 slow circles under 2kts, but it never registered any result. When I stopped calibrating it defaulted to zero deviation. I entered the correct compass course at some point, but it just gets confused. Any idea what could be wrong? or what further research I need to do to pinpoint the issue?
2. Never could autopilot steer when under sail power for very long because I'd get a "low battery" warning and/or a flashing AH4000 message. As far as I can tell the batteries were NOT low. If I started the engine I USED to be able to use autopilot for hours. (which is most useful singlehanded)

3. The compass course is off and won't respond to deviation input. This is low priority because I know where I'm going and have GPS and compass, so I don't need this.

What I need is for the autopilot to work again at least under engine power, and hold a straight course when I set it (even if it's displaying the wrong compass reading), and then be able to vary that course by 1 or 10* on request. I don't need the tacking 90* feature.

I know there is a lot newer/better technology out there, but I'd much prefer to invest my budget in sails and speed, rather than have to upgrade this device.

Thanks for your insight.
 
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#33 ·
Hello All:
I am new to posting and am excited to see that other owners have similar issues.
I just purchased my first boat, an Ontario 32 in September. I love the boat but there are a few electrical issues I will have to address. The Autohelm has power to the control unit but nothing engages at the wheel.
Does this sound like a simple cable issue? In truth I have dug very deep into the problem, just thought I'd through it out there.
It to is an Autohelm 4000

Thanks in advance
 
#34 ·
Hi, 90% of all electronics problems are cabling and connection. There is a wire from the control unit to the drive motor. First check all connections. It is quite easy to accidentally nudge the connector to the motor, and the connector or the wire can break inside. You can disassemble (quite hard) the connector by pushing the two pins on its side and pulling apart. Disconnect the cable from the drive and use a voltmeter to check the voltage while pressing the 1 or 10 keys (or just after switching on, it drives the motor for 3 secs for even drive belt wear). You will probably see only 2-3 volts indicated, as the driver uses pulses, so don't expect 12V to show up there. If you get voltage there, you can check the motor, by directly applying 12V there. If you get 0V at the cable end, is not good. Check the output on the back of the instrument, the same way. If you still get 0 there, it's instrument problem. Otherwise cable.
The cable as available ready made, but you can fabricate one, it uses Conxall/Switchcraft micro-con-x type connector on the motor end.
 
#36 ·
Hi, I am new to this forum & can't figure out how to post a new question.

I have searched through the various forums, but can't find this problem mentioned anywhere.

My ST4000+ display seems to have become very dim. If I look very carefully, I can just see the heading in certain light conditions, but it's almost impossible to make anything else out on the screen.

I am not sure if this is a LCD or a backlight issue, or something else. Raymarine have been impossible to contact for help (as always).

I hope someone can help.
 
#37 ·
This may not apply to your 4000+ or its firmware version, but some Raymarine instrument heads have adjustable contrast:

To set the contrast level for the ST7001 display:
1. With the autopilot in Standby mode, press the disp key for one second to
access the LAMP screen.
2. Press the disp key for one second again, to display the CONTRAST screen.
3. Use the up and down arrow keys to set the required contrast level (from
1 to 15). >/quote>
 
#40 ·
It's definitely not backlight problem, as the LCD should be visible in natural light, without backligth.
The ST4000+ is fairly easily taken apart. The LCD is held in place by a plastic bracket, secured by screws. Take it off, and carefully clean the contacts on the circuit board. If you are real careful, you can also clean the contacts on the LCD itself (they are invisible!) and the rubber conductor that is between the LCD and the board. Don't use WD40 or like, use alcohol!
This can help. However, if the LCD is uniformly dim, then probably there are other problems, as the above contact problems usually result in some of the segments6pixels being dim.
BTW, at the Raymarine Technical Forum Raymarine Technical Forum they seem to be very helpful and responsive, try that.
 
#41 ·
Thanks for that info szigi. That all makes sense.

I did actually end up getting in touch with a Raymarine tech guy here in Australia, but he knew very little about it & his advice was for me to buy a new one. I sent a message to Raymarine on their website, but they never responded.

I'll pull it apart this week & have a look.

Thanks for all the advice
 
#42 ·
Hi all,

I have experienced the same problems with my ST4000+ Head unit, which is installed on my recently purchased Catalina 36 Mk II. The 'Low Battery warning would kick in after a short period, forcing you to switch back on to 'Standby'.

Fortunately I had a the original ST4000 unit, which I replaced. This cured the problem. The ST4000+ was returned to Raymarine UK, along with the drive unit for examination. Raymarine told me that the processor in the head unit was faulty and that as these units are now obsolete, they do not carry the parts to replace it, and if they could, it would cost around £400.00. They did offer me a discount on a new wheel pilot for around £1100.00.

So for now I shall be using the original ST4000 Head.
 
#43 ·
I wonder if they really mean the processor, or if that is just a general statement they make to avoid fixing it. My unit had the low battery problem. Here is what I was able to determine on mine. The processor has a "buzzer" output line which is logic level 5 volt pulses. This drives an inverter which acts as a buffer. That in turn drives a transistor that creates 12 volt pulses from the 5 volt pulses. The 12 volt pulses feed a charge pump/voltage doubler to provide 24 volt bias on one of the power MOSFETs. This MOSFET switches closed to provide 12 volts to power the H-bridge driving the motor and the output clutch circuit (whatever that is used for). In my device, the BAV99 (I think that's the nomenclature, going from memory) dual diode package was bad. The result was that only 12 volts was biasing the MOSFET so that it did not switch closed to power the H-bridge. I was able to replace it and get mine operational again. Before I did that though, I removed that MOSFET and jumpered the 12 volts from 12 volts external to 12 volts internal to check that everything else was operating normally.
 
#45 ·
Have an Autohelm ST4000+ that works but has dim LCD display with burn mark.

Any idea where I might check for a used replacement display head? Or for someone to repair mine? Also, I might be able to locate a used display with a good LCD that could be swapped for mine. Any idea what this swap labor might cost and who or what kind of tech could do it? Can anyone comment on whether such a swap is feasible -- have no idea as to how the LCD is connected to control circuit board.

Thanks.
 
#46 · (Edited)
Have an Autohelm ST4000+ that works but has dim LCD display with burn mark.

Any idea where I might check for a used replacement display head? Or for someone to repair mine? Also, I might be able to locate a used display with a good LCD that could be swapped for mine. Any idea what this swap labor might cost and who or what kind of tech could do it? Can anyone comment on whether such a swap is feasible -- have no idea as to how the LCD is connected to control circuit board.

Thanks.
You can find broken instruments (people usually blow the FETs in there by shortcircuit and inadequate fusing) on ebay fairly regularly, with good LCD. The st4000+ and the st5000+ has the same display, so you can go for either.

It is very simple to replace the LCD, five minute job, and you only need a small Phillips head screwdriver. You can safely try it, even if you don't have much experience in it.

First remove the 8 screws on the back of the instrument. You may need to peel off the gasket to reach them. Then carefully pull apart the case. Grab the center cylindrical part on the back and the front of the case and pull. It may need some force. When it comes apart, be careful with the wire to the buzzer, as it is glued to the back. Pull off the connector.

Next, unscrew the three screws on the bottom part of the circuit board. Then lift the board. The LCD may be stuck to it, be careful not to drop. From here it is trivial, there are some parts, the frame of the LCD, the flexible striped connectors, the diffuser, just observe their place and order.

Put the replacement LCD in, and doing everything in reverse, assemble. It takes more to to write than to do it, and once you open the instrument, it becomes clear what to do.
 
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