Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items









Go Back   SailNet Community > Contributing Authors > Gear and Maintenance Articles
 Not a Member? 



Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2001
Contributing Authors
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 158
Rep Power: 13
Don Casey is on a distinguished road
Bypassing the Electrical Panel

I recently read that it isn’t necessary to run all electrical connections through the boat’s electrical panel when adding equipment that has its own internal switch. Thus stereos and VHF radios, for instance, might be connected in a way that bypasses the battery switch so that the appliances are always available and controlled solely by their internal switch. Do you agree, and if so, should that connection be made directly at the battery or through a bus bar that is always live?

Don Casey responds:

As a general rule, connecting any circuit directly to your battery is a bad idea. There are exceptions. The starting circuit, for example, is nearly always connected directly to the battery. (This circuit, by the way, is usually defused, but a high-amp fuse in the positive side—now readily available—makes for a safer boat.) The automatic bilge pump is typically connected directly, with a fuse in the positive leg near the battery. Some electronics, particularly Loran, are sometimes connected directly (with a fuse) to minimize interference. And SSB radios may also be connected directly with large cables to maximize the available current for long-range transmission.

Despite these exceptions, I strongly urge you to refrain from using the battery terminals as the power source for additional equipment or circuits. The power to all onboard circuits should originate downstream of the main switch so that in the event of a short or a fire you can disconnect everything with a single switch. A bus bar that is always live represents unnecessary exposure.

If your distribution panel is maxed out, it is a simple matter to install a supplemental panel, located wherever it is convenient. Breaker panels start at around $100, or you can buy a six-circuit switched-fuse panel for about $25. If you don't need switches, a simple enclosed fuse block will serve the purpose. But in all cases, pick up the supply power from the output side of the main battery switch, or better yet downstream of the main breaker if your boat has one, but not from the battery terminal.


Closed Thread


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is Off
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:14 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012