Ten Tips for Clean and Green Boating - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 17 Old 03-18-2010
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It's all about surface area when it comes to evaproration. A 55-gallon drum of oil with one end open to the air has very little surface area. But pour that drum out into a marina and it has lots.
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post #12 of 17 Old 03-19-2010
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Lightbulb Hurt My Mother And Ill Hurt You

TRASH IS THE WORST PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DONT THROUGH YOUR PLASTIC and cig buts, none of that stuff even compares to plastics (even though its all petroleum and everything that exists is technically natural) ,,, yeah adding soap to petrol spills to make it LOOK LIKE it went away is feckin retarded its just adding soap to the sea as well...
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post #13 of 17 Old 03-18-2011
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Bang on, every tip and comment has to be benificial.
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post #14 of 17 Old 05-22-2011
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I have been a mechanic for over 30 years. The only way I have ever known to get rid of waste oil is to clean it up and dispose of it properly.
The residue from fuel/oil may eventually break down smaller or end up on shore somewhere but even if you can no longer see it,it is still there.

Seems a lot of our environmental problems come from people thinking they have caused no harm because nobody can see what they have done.
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post #15 of 17 Old 09-28-2013
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Re: Ten Tips for Clean and Green Boating

I invest lots of time on my uncle's motor boat. We use oil only absorbing shields to fresh up the unpleasant oil that builds up under the energy guiding and that very sometimes leaking from the 2-stroke outboard, i didn't think this will sort it out.

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post #16 of 17 Old 05-04-2015
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Re: Ten Tips for Clean and Green Boating

good to know, thank you for sharing
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post #17 of 17 Old 05-04-2015
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Re: Ten Tips for Clean and Green Boating

A few inaccuracies. I'm in the waste disposal and recycling industry, and have designed, built, and operated some of the largest facilities.

1. Absorbent pads are not hazardous waste and are only regulated waste if there is free-flowing oil. If disposed of at a "site" there are 19 chances in 20 that the pads will be sent to a land fill as is. Just make sure you use enough absorbent and bag it. I chair the industry association committee. So little interest, the quarterly meeting of this sub-committee was cancelled.

2. Used antifreeze is only a hazardous waste in a very few states. It is recyclable and is generally prohibited from sewer or surface water discharge.

Next, I'm not saying spills are OK--they are NOT--but whether dispersants make sense is situation specific. They should not be used to hide spills; however, there are other factors. Is a surface film more or less harmful than dispersed oil? Will it evaporate (recreational fuels will as they are all distillates--Fstbottms is most correct)? Is the environment (warm, enough organisms) such that breaking the oil up with make it more biodegradable? Not a simple matter. But we can agree prevention is simple and is best.

3. Soap does not send light products like used oil, diesel, or gasoline to the bottom. They distribute it in the column. Only certain components of crude and #6 oil can settle. Simply not true, try the experiment at home. Urban legend. Additionally, many soaps are harmful in their own right and increase the toxicity of oils.

4. Heavy oil eventually sink without dispersants; the light parts evaporate, and the remaining asphalt-like part sinks.


What we SHOULD do is engineer our boats to prevent spills, rather than talk about clean-up, which is always bad.
1. Make over-fills impossible.
a. Place the vent above the fill and where it can be seen and protected.
b. Install a fuel/air separator on the vent.
2. For gasoline, install a silica gel vent filter; it will prevent water absorption and prevent gasoline evaporation.
3. If bilge oil is unavoidable, install an oil absorbing filter on the sump pump (you will need a second pump for this, since it will plug).

Not hard. The mods probably pay for themselves, if they avoid one oops.

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Last edited by pdqaltair; 05-04-2015 at 01:39 PM.
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