New Honda 2.3 outboard not running - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 42 Old 10-05-2013
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Re: New Honda 2.3 outboard not running

Don't think this is a brand issue w/Honda. My little Suzuki 2.5 does the same thing, now i run it dry unless I'm using it every day. I've gotten pretty good at removing and cleaning the little carb.
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post #32 of 42 Old 10-05-2013
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Re: New Honda 2.3 outboard not running

I have used this for many years on many different motors:

Fuel Additives / Treatments | Berryman Products

Works as advertised, no affiliation. Be careful, it can remove paint, hot stuff.

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post #33 of 42 Old 11-10-2014
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Re: New Honda 2.3 outboard not running

I am having the same problem, so I cleaned the carb, jets and added fuel stabilizer. I am thinking about adding a small fuel filter, it looks like there is room. Edit. Great news the problem was the gas cap. I removed the gas line to check flow and it would just trickle. Took the cap apart and blow out the holes in it. On a side note if mine won't start after setting for awhile (all gas drained) I pull the plug and put a drop of fuel in the cylinder (I keep 8" of fuel line in the boat) to prime and it fires right up. It feels good to fix things yourself.

Last edited by Mshoeverivon; 11-10-2014 at 12:49 PM.
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post #34 of 42 Old 11-10-2014
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Re: New Honda 2.3 outboard not running

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Originally Posted by Mshoeverivon View Post
I am having the same problem, so I cleaned the carb, jets and added fuel stabilizer. I am thinking about adding a small fuel filter, it looks like there is room.
My 2HP Honda had a small integral filter just inside the fuel line at the tank end. You couldn't see it from the outside"

Honda Marine - Parts Look Up Results

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post #35 of 42 Old 11-10-2014
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Re: New Honda 2.3 outboard not running

I also bought a new outboard this year. In my case it was a merc 6 hp.

I read the manual, called the factory, talked to an outboard mechanic who is my computer customer and talked to another mechanic.

The consensus seems to be that in the past it was recommended to run the carb dry and or drain the fuel bowl if the motor was to sit for more than a couple days.

Now the factory recommends storing the motor wet but with treated fuel.

Both the mechanics say that they now use E0 fuel and treat it anyway and store wet.

I was able to find this fuel VP racing fuel, specialty lubricants, performance chemicals
from an outboard dealer and also from a small engine (mowers, snow throwers etc) dealer.

Apparently the running it dry trick will work often if not most of the time.
The mechanics feel that when empty some small jets will sometimes clog with something, maybe insects etc.
Treated e10 is supposed to be ok but treated e0 is supposed to be the safest and one guy said he personally is responsible for a couple hundred motors and did not have one failure last year while he would typically have one or two failures a year with the run try method.

As a data point I ran my motor dry and drained the carb but while moving it a half oz or so of fuel dribbled out of the full intake so I'm not sure it is possible to really drain a motor completely dry even if you try.

I also called the Trufuel people. This gas is available in Home depot and tru-value. They say it is for air cooled motors only so it might be OK for your Honda but has not been tested for my Merc.

I put my new motor away wet a couple of weeks ago with wpracingfuel treated with the merc stablizer.
If it starts well in the spring I'm smart if not I'm dumb. I'll let you know.

Another interesting data point.
While putting it away and trying fogging oil, didn't need it just playing, and starting and stopping I had a strange occurrence.
I had the coke in, the engine was warm.
I was pulling the cord out very slowly to get to the point where you pull to start.
The engine started. Wow, I have never had an engine start with so little effort.
Explains why they recommend taking out the plug when working on the prop.
I was not trying to start the motor and was pulling the cord very slowly to find the resistance point.
Freaked me out.

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It is a lesson about the limitations of wax as an adhesive.
If you have an engineering problem solve it.

Last edited by davidpm; 11-10-2014 at 05:56 PM.
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post #36 of 42 Old 11-10-2014
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Re: New Honda 2.3 outboard not running

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Originally Posted by davidpm View Post
I also bought a new outboard this year. In my case it was a merc 6 hp.

I read the manual, called the factory, talked to an outboard mechanic who is my computer customer and talked to another mechanic.

The consensus seems to be that in the past it was recommended to run the carb dry and or drain the fuel bowl if the motor was to sit for more than a couple days.

Now the factory recommends storing the motor wet but with treated fuel.

Both the mechanics say that they now use E0 fuel and treat it anyway and store wet.

I was able to find this fuel VP racing fuel, specialty lubricants, performance chemicals
from an outboard dealer and also from a small engine (mowers, snow throwers etc) dealer.

Apparently the running it dry trick will work often if not most of the time.
The mechanics feel that when empty some small jets will sometimes clog with something, maybe insects etc.
Treated e10 is supposed to be ok but treated e0 is supposed to be the safest and one guy said he personally is responsible for a couple hundred motors and did not have one failure last year while he would typically have one or two failures a year with the run try method.

As a data point I ran my motor dry and drained the carb but while moving it a half oz or so of fuel dribbled out of the full intake so I'm not sure it is possible to really drain a motor completely dry even if you try.

I also called the Trufuel people. This gas is available in Home depot and tru-value. They say it is for air cooled motors only so it might be OK for your Honda but has not been tested for my Merc.

I put my new motor away wet a couple of weeks ago with wpracingfuel treated with the merc stablizer.
If it starts well in the spring I'm smart if not I'm dumb. I'll let you know.

Another interesting data point.
While putting it away and trying fogging oil, didn't need it just playing, and starting and stopping I had a strange occurrence.
I had the coke in, the engine was warm.
I was pulling the cord out very slowly to get to the point where you pull to start.
The engine started. Wow, I have never had an engine start with so little effort.
Explains why they recommend taking out the plug when working on the prop.
I was not trying to start the motor and was pulling the cord very slowly to find the resistance point.
Freaked me out.
Curious to know why the racing fuel is recommended for air cooled engines only? The only thing I can think of is that air cooled engines may run hotter,
helping to vaporize the fuel better, or properly?

Paul T
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post #37 of 42 Old 11-10-2014
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Re: New Honda 2.3 outboard not running

yup in cali those who race old honda air cooled bikes reccomend the racing fuel it helps with pinging and excessive heat from in some cases detonation too

it also allows to run richer jetting that gets more power in the end too as well as cool down the engine a bit at the same time

anywhoo

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Re: New Honda 2.3 outboard not running

You do know there is a fuel shut off lever on the side of the engine. Right? You have checked it is in the right position? It's kind of hidden and one can sometimes forget about it.

Mike
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Re: New Honda 2.3 outboard not running

Yes. I bet the cap was getting gummed up. Little engine little holes. I am going to run stabilizer in it all the time now.
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Re: New Honda 2.3 outboard not running

Quote:
Originally Posted by dabnis View Post
Curious to know why the racing fuel is recommended for air cooled engines only? The only thing I can think of is that air cooled engines may run hotter,
helping to vaporize the fuel better, or properly?

Paul T

It was the TruFuel site that said that their 4 stroke gas was for air cooled only. I called the mfr and the guy that called me back would not discuss it at all. I suspect it is an insurance or testing thing.

The VP fuel I bought from an outboard repair facility. I did not see any air cooled restriction on that product.

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It is a lesson about the limitations of wax as an adhesive.
If you have an engineering problem solve it.
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