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post #11 of 17 Old 06-30-2013
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Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Another wood butcher here who hates Polyshades. What an awful product!

Since I'm not a fan of that finish I would NOT coat it with anything with anything except perhaps sandpaper! Let the weather get to it and maybe some of it will fall off.

What I like for finishing Teak & Mahogany is to oil the wood first (teak oil or tung oil) and then apply a coating like varnish or Cetol. Oils bring out the grain and color of the wood while most stains cover it.

Mostly, throw out or give away that Polys-hades crap.

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post #12 of 17 Old 07-01-2013
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Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

At the risk of writing something that you don't want to read, why not do it over? You did it once and don't like the result. So every time that you look at the bulkhead (i.e., every time you're on the boat), you'll hate it. Why not suck it up and do it right. You'll be a lot happier and that's what a boat's supposed to do for you.

While PolyShades is most definitely a compromise, all Minwax products should not be grouped with it. I use gallons of Minwax Wipe-on Poly and Helmsman Urethane and have never had an adhesion failure when using fresh product. Even old stuff is ok, but difficult to get a good flow. I use it on the furniture that I build and Victoria's interior. Good stuff that's difficult mess up.

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post #13 of 17 Old 07-01-2013
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Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Mark, Was Victoria's interior wood that light in color originally, or did you strip and re-do? looks fantastic!

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post #14 of 17 Old 07-01-2013
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Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

In the 80's, Sabre didn't put a finish on their interiors. Some people would use Murphy's Oil Soap or any number of "oils" which tend to look nice for about 5 minutes then collect dirt, progressively darkening the wood. Teak is naturally oily and does not need to be oiled, especially interior wood. Fortunately, my PO was lazy and didn't do much to the interior, so I mostly had just dirt. I used a plastic pot scrubby with acetone to give the wood a good cleaning. Then I sanded lightly with 220 grit sandpaper and then applied 5 coats of satin Minwax Wipe-on Poly. For handholds, window frames, table, and other high wear objects, I used gloss. I only wipe with a damp cloth from time to time to clean up. The interior is all teak, so I broke up the job, working on the head, then V berth and hallway, main salon, and finally galley & chart table. I didn't move to the next section until I was done with the current one. The photo shows the natural color of teak which is not dark.

Admission of Guilt: I don't apply finish or sand between coats with the same care that I use for my furniture. It's a flippin' boat and even I have my limits for persnickety-ness. I take care and it shows but seriously, a boat is a lesson in entropy. It looks nice enough....and then I drop a winch handle, it bounces down the steps, off the corner of the chart table, and onto my high gloss floor. So much for perfection.
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Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Thanks for that info Sabreman. My PO used a min-wax cherry stain. (dark) I'd love to get it back to the natural color and lighten it up. I re-did the sole with Ultimate Sole several years ago, but the desire to sail and other projects have kept me from adressing the interior wood. I like the idea of doing it in smaller bits.

BTW, was it you that steered me to a card scraper? I bought a nice set w/handle from Woodcraft works great on the toe rails! Thanks.

Apologies to the PO for any drift.

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post #16 of 17 Old 07-02-2013
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Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Try some Formsby's furniture refinish or Ploy remover ( test first ) either one should remove the finish without damaging the grain ( again test first )

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post #17 of 17 Old 07-02-2013
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Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

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My PO used a min-wax cherry stain. (dark) I'd love to get it back to the natural color and lighten it up.
I have no idea why people insist on staining wood, especially teak. The only reason to stain a wood is to make it look like another wood, to make a cheaper wood like an expensive one. But why would someone stain one of the most expensive woods to look like a much cheaper one? Regardless, I wouldn't even try to lighten it up. Once the stain is in the wood fibers, the only way to get it back to natural teak color is to sand it down. If you're dealing with a veneer which is most likely, then it's a non-starter.

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BTW, was it you that steered me to a card scraper?
Possibly. I'm a huge fan of scrapers. They're far faster and controllable than any sort of sander. I'm glad that it worked out for you.

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