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post #11 of 12 Old 07-01-2013
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Re: plastic porthole windows

I thought about metal but then you have the increased cost plus an older boat like that can look weird with shiny metal- white plastic looks better and no worries of rust later. Much cheaper, a bit malleable when installing, and all in all a great buy.

(Satasfied BECKSON customer and DIY'r)
Go Beckson, you wont be dissapointed. Use 4200 above waterline, 5200 below.
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post #12 of 12 Old 07-01-2013
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Re: plastic porthole windows


Some folks have deeper pockets than others. Are you looking to do the job yourself? The photos seem to indicate that the glazing is adhered to the metal frame with w structural joint. If this is the case, get some scrap polycarbonate or acrylic from a local glazier. Cut and shape the material as required on a table saw, using a sander and a drill. Run the drill in reverse or use a dull bit. You want the plastic to soften as you penetrate and you don't want the drill to grab and rip your panels as you drill. Then, add a strip of 3M VHB tape in the metal frame, carefully line up the glazing and press. Throw a towel over it and tap around the perimeter with a rubber mallet Then run a perimeter of masking tape allowing a 1/4" gap from the frame. Apply a bead of structural silicone (DOW 795 works well, 995 is better)and tool it. NEVER leave a bead of sealant untooled. Allow to cure for a day or so and reinstall. Full cure will happen in about a week. My port lights, about 12 x 50 each, are applied this way and have been secure and watertight since I installed them.


Biddeford, ME
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