1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions. - Page 20 - SailNet Community
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post #191 of 813 Old 05-10-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: 1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions.

Okay - here are some photos of my electrical setup. I didn't have a chance to trace each of the wires/cables - I'll get to that next. For now, hopefully this will clarify things a bit in terms of how things are generally set up.

Let's start with the battery compartment under the aft berth. The various switches are...

To starboard:



Shown here from left-to-right are:

-1/2/All switch for the two "House" bank batteries.
-The slightly mislabeled "AC Source" (not House) switch for generator or shorepower (I'll fix that)
-The "Combine Batteries" switch for combining the house and start batteries.

To port:



-On/Off switch for the start battery
-Fuse (I think for the starter but I don't know)
-Generator start swtich

And the monster under the bed...



-The two green-topped house batteries, and the black start battery

The starter side components and wiring...



-You can see the positives coming off the start battery and running to the switch and the BlueSea ACR

Close-up of components...



-What I guess is a buss for the alternator connection to the left (not sure)?
-The BlueSea ACR - distributing the flow to each battery
-The backside of the start battery switch and the fuse

Closer-upper of components...



-The backside of the start battery switch
-That buss(?) just visible to the right

Now to the starboard house bank side...



-The blue thing is the AC Source switch
-I don't know what that buss with the green wires is yet - I assume it's the Combine Batteries switch wiring
-The two Group 27s that came with the boat

Again - as for alternator charging, when I tested everything with a voltmeter with the engine running, the starter battery and the house battery that the switch was set to was receiving charge. I haven't done the test with the switch set to "All" yet to see if the switch is directing the charge to the house battery - or if there is a fault in the ACR or cable going to the battery that wasn't receiving charge.

Next, the alternator. I couldn't see any markings on it and didn't have time to pull it and check - but if size is any indicator of amps, this is a very normal size alternator, not the volleyball size mentioned above for a 200amp-er.





And finally to the charger at the nav table...



The backside wiring...



And the panel...



Note: Unlike the alternator charge being dependent on the house switch, this indicates that both house batteries are always being charged and monitored regardless of switch setting. A good thing, I think.

When I get a chance, I'll start tracing wires and working out a diagram, but this is as far as I could get on this trip. There was, after all, sailing to be done.

Last edited by smackdaddy; 05-10-2014 at 04:23 PM.
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post #192 of 813 Old 05-10-2014
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Re: 1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions.

The Herreshoff's must be rolling in their graves.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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Re: 1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions.

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The Herreshoff's must be rolling in their graves.
Let 'em roll.
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Re: 1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions.

Herreshoff called fiberglass frozen snot, so my guess is he's rolling his eyes at most of us!

Smack,
It actually doesn't look that bad (or lets just say I've owned boats that were worse when I got them). The good news is that everything looks like its accessible and relatively straight forward. Without too much effort the wiring could be replaced or cleaned up, neatly routed and tied down, etc.
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post #195 of 813 Old 05-11-2014
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Re: 1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions.

Smack

That isn't a bus to the left in this picture - it is a shunt for an ammeter.


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Re: 1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions.

So the Blue Seas item is an ACR. That is good.

The house batteries should not be separate. They should be permanently combined to create a larger bank. The switch used to select them is not necessary. All you need is the one switch - 1/2/both/off.

Were it my boat I would install 2 separate simple on/off switches, one for start and one for house. Much simpler. A third switch would be added for starting off the house bank if it is ever necessary. Labeled properly nothing could be simpler.

Trace the alternator output wire and see where it goes. With the ACR it should go to the house bank positive directly, not to a switch.

With your cruising plane I would change the house batteries to golf carts, 4 if you have room.

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post #197 of 813 Old 05-18-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: 1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions.

Well, I replaced my Standard Horizon GX2150 with the GX2200. It was a bit of a bullet to bite - but I was having trouble with the GPS connection dropping off. The way it was set up is that the iMux has a GPS puck connected via a PS2 port. This GPS signal was then sent through to the GX2150 which would then generate the AIS readout and send that back through to the iMux. Then all that's pumped out to the iPad chartplotter.

As I said, the GPS signal would drop from the GX2150 and we'd lose AIS and get an alarm from the VHF. This happened too many times for me to fully trust it. So I bought the GX2200 which has GPS integrated into the radio. Now it's rock solid. I'll keep the 2150 as a backup.

I also wired the RAM mic in the cockpit - which also has the AIS readout on the mic. Pretty cool.

I also cleaned the raw water strainers and got started on epoxying the interior of the water tank. I'll do a write up on that soon.

BTW - miti, what specific golf cart batteries would you recommend? I don't have a lot of space in my compartment so I need to stay as compact as possible.
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post #198 of 813 Old 05-18-2014
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Re: 1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions.

Costco usually has a deal on golf cart batteries.....Trojans get pricey...had to get them this time as they were the only game in town (singapore)

You can also find white plastic boxes that fit the GC batteries, make your install easier.


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post #199 of 813 Old 05-18-2014
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Re: 1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions.

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BTW - miti, what specific golf cart batteries would you recommend? I don't have a lot of space in my compartment so I need to stay as compact as possible.
I think the GC batteries made by Deka/East Penn, Crown, or US battery are good alternatives to the more expensive Trojans. I think from Mainesail's posts that the ones at Sams Club under the Duracell brand are very good - same as West Marine at half the price and made by Deka. Maine has better knowledge of what is available in the US. Private message him for the latest info.

All GC batteries I have seen are the same size - 10.3 in x 7.11 in and about 11 in high depending on terminals for the T-105 Trojan.

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post #200 of 813 Old 05-19-2014
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Re: 1989 Hunter 40 - A million questions.

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Originally Posted by smackdaddy View Post
As I said, the GPS signal would drop from the GX2150 and we'd lose AIS and get an alarm from the VHF. This happened too many times for me to fully trust it. So I bought the GX2200 which has GPS integrated into the radio. Now it's rock solid. I'll keep the 2150 as a backup.
possible.
Do you have any issue getting a GPS signal from within the cabin on the GX2200?

I've been thinking about installing one on our boat, but it's so new that I haven't heard much info on how reliable the signal is. I like the idea of having it all integrated.
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