new wood and varnish ??? - Page 3 - SailNet Community

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  #21  
Old 08-08-2013
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Re: new wood and varnish ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabreman View Post
Helmsman is fine, I've used it extensively. 10 coats on all sides. Sand between coats with 220 or 320. But you are setting yourself up for a lot of maintenance regardless of brand. The finish must be maintained or will lift rapidly.
Bingo.
If you apply two coats a day, you can have it all back on the boat by Tuesday, and will likely get two years out of it before needing to scuff and touch up with 3 more coats.

As a general rule of thumb, I thin the first 2 coats 50%, the next two coats 25%, and the rest 5-10% depending upon temperature and humidity.
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Old 08-08-2013
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Re: new wood and varnish ???

I would not bed any of that with 5200 as you will certainly be removing them in about 2 years time when fungus starts growing out of the fir.
5200 = requires dynamite to remove.
Butyl tape = easy replacement.

The job you do thoroughly finishing these pieces will effect their longevity.
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Re: new wood and varnish ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by bljones View Post
Bingo.
If you apply two coats a day, you can have it all back on the boat by Tuesday, and will likely get two years out of it before needing to scuff and touch up with 3 more coats.

As a general rule of thumb, I thin the first 2 coats 50%, the next two coats 25%, and the rest 5-10% depending upon temperature and humidity.
I was thinking of coating once attached to the boat since I have to sand for the bungs. Is that not the best approach?
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Re: new wood and varnish ???

Also should I varnish or not varnish the section that is getting bedded?
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Re: new wood and varnish ???

I'd almost advise that you coat all this wood your BIL made in epoxy and some thin cloth. The better you seal it, the longer it will last. Your boat will be in a hot, humid environment a lot of the time.
You need to seal ALL sides and every screw hole. Otherwise water will get into the wood and all bets are off.
Red oak is one of the least appropriate boating woods as its cellular structure leaves long tubes that moisture can use to permeate it.
White oak is supposed to be a bit better for boat use.
Fir will turn into a sponge once wet enough.

So yes, you do should finish the bottom, top & all sides BEFORE installing.
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Re: new wood and varnish ???

So its cool to do 7 coats then sand off for the bungs and just touch up again with 7 coats? And its a plain cut white oak on the winch islands.
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Re: new wood and varnish ???

I just now realized that since he stained the wood it will be a bear to sand the bungs without messing up the stain. come to think of it the bungs will need to be stained anyway. Crazy.
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Re: new wood and varnish ???

Yup.
And the bungs should ideally be of the same kind of wood they are plugging, so they will expand and contract at the same rate.

You might be surprised at just how clear a coat of epoxy and light cloth will look over wood.

In my own experience, we built some traveler blocks similar to your winch islands with some Birch stock instead of Teak or Mahogany. In about 2 years the Birch had wood mushrooms growing from it and was replaced with expensive Teak. I only finished the Birch with a few coats of Cetol.
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Re: new wood and varnish ???

You seem to know how to do it right - those woods are not great for boat exteriors (fir is pretty good spar material though). Staining exterior wood is not a good idea because it will get sanded/scrubbed a lot. 5200 is only for permanently installing things - it's an adhesive as much or more than it's a sealant.

Lastly - steel wool should NEVER be on a boat - you will end up with a boat with chicken pox. You can use it at home when refinishing boat stuff you've taken home to work on but it should never, ever go on board.
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Re: new wood and varnish ???

Well I was originally going to put them on with one coat then finish my other coats after they are installed because of the fact that I have to sand the bungs. Would it work out better if I did all the coats first(off the boat) then put the bungs in then fill that area out with varnish. Also any recomendations on staining the area that I am bunging. I guess obviously just sand and stain? Is that going to screw with my first coat of urethane? We did use similar woods for bungs and I do have a good idea of what I am doing, I just like to ask alot of questions. It kind of sucks because I really dont want to do this again in a few years and I had all intentions on getting mahogany but he went ahead and used fir and convinced me it was cool and now I am finding out it is not too cool. I had no problem buying to right wood cost wise. Not sure he was looking at the right places for wood though. He claims it would have cost $900 to make the two cockpit hatches. Even though they sell for $350.
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