Why not cheap refrig components? - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 28 Old 08-23-2013
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Re: Why not cheap refrig components?

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Glymoth,
that should be one large bank - and a small 12v as a starter, not two equal banks and certainly not three.

I added a 110v ice maker (180ish makes ice in 6 minutes and 33 pounds a day) to my boat this summer, it works underway off a 500w inverter. Man was not made to drink warm drinks. If it rots away in two years I'm still ahead on bags and blocks of ice, and certainly on carrying them up and down piers and such.

The installed fridge/freeze has a freezer that is the size of a dorm fridges, and the fridge is maybe 6 cubic feet. I can't get the temp in the fridge below 44 degrees.
I'm looking at options, but it can wait now that I have an ice maker.
Chuck, that's a really neat option. $180 to make the ice that fills the ice box and keeps everything cold, versus a 'fridge. How are you handling the fresh water supply? Does the ice maker have some kind of controls to tell it to turn off?

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post #22 of 28 Old 08-23-2013
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Re: Why not cheap refrig components?

Sounds like the module is electrically commutating the compressor motor as it would have to for a "brushless dc" motor. This could be as simple as reversing the output polarity (the frequency of which, among other things, would determine motor speed) on the two power leads to the motor. If there were four, six, or eight power leads, the controller would be doing a similar scheme, but applying power to successive poles to make the operation of the motor smoother. The speed transducer closes the control loop.

Figuring out which leads were which might be the hard part, but it could be easy depending on how much you can disassemble the compressor. You could use a multimeter to figure it out, too: the two leads that have a small resistance (not zero) would be the armature leads.

The transducer is probably an open collector sensor which allows for a wide range of input voltages. Hooking up a voltage across the transducer without a resister in series with it will KILL it!

The module is probably just a MOSFET H-bridge with some control logic and over-discharge protection.

I hope this helps and I didn't get too technical.

--Tom
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post #23 of 28 Old 08-23-2013
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Re: Why not cheap refrig components?

Rrrrright...
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post #24 of 28 Old 08-23-2013
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Re: Why not cheap refrig components?

I think if you are mostly at the dock and day sailing I see no reason this would not work. Let it get good and cold and if you are going out for a day sail just rely on the insulation to keep stuff cold (you did say you were going to put in good insulation right?). You might want an inverter for the occasional overnight. Yes you could draw your batteries down below the 50% level but I would imagine just a couple times a season will not really hurt anything. But before an occasional overnight load it up with some ice and you should be OK. Now if you sail a lot and lots of overnights then yes get a real 12 volt system, but for occasional use I think the 120 route should work. The biggest issue is going to be finding a dorm fridge with the coils on the back, they have mostly gone to the whole shell as evaporator model. So keep an eye out at yard sales.
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post #25 of 28 Old 08-23-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Why not cheap refrig components?

miata: nope, not the dock kinda guys. We splash and go ( this time, south to Fl from MD), then from Jan-Mar (bahamas). I should also mention that we already have an inverter (1500w IIRC). We are also planning on adding 200-300w of solar. mostly hook to hook, w/ re-supply and dock visits for fuel, etc. about once a week or two. ICW south should be ok, as most of that is power, unless weather is suitable, and a couple of jumps outside. Also, I believe I've seen the cold plate style for sale at HD & Lowes. Are these useable.

chuckles: I totally agree, one of my quick (lol) projects in Sept. is to make one big bank and small starter battery. I'm actually going to start another thread on that.

denise: what did you mean by the danfoss as much as a compressor? I'm a bit confused (happens easily). Did you mean that the danfoss is a less expensive solution or that it is expensive but vastly superior to other approaches?

thx all :-)
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post #26 of 28 Old 08-23-2013
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Re: Why not cheap refrig components?

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Rrrrright...
Too much?
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post #27 of 28 Old 08-23-2013
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Re: Why not cheap refrig components?

Even if one could do all that.. they are hermetically sealed. it takes a cut off wheel mounted on a jig to slice one open. Kollman "wrote the book" Danfoss keeps their secrets very well on the propietary things like the transistors.
we installed a norcold in the box on my boat. it's a swing compressor. 3.5 amps. #2 setting takes it to 36-38 degrees and I'm happy with that and I've still not sealed the lid with weather strips!

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post #28 of 28 Old 08-23-2013
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Re: Why not cheap refrig components?

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Originally Posted by glymroff View Post
miata: nope, not the dock kinda guys. We splash and go ( this time, south to Fl from MD), then from Jan-Mar (bahamas). I should also mention that we already have an inverter (1500w IIRC). We are also planning on adding 200-300w of solar. mostly hook to hook, w/ re-supply and dock visits for fuel, etc. about once a week or two. ICW south should be ok, as most of that is power, unless weather is suitable, and a couple of jumps outside. Also, I believe I've seen the cold plate style for sale at HD & Lowes. Are these useable.

thx all :-)
From my understanding the "peltier cooler" are not good even though they have fairly low amp draw, they will have to run constantly to keep the box remotely cool, so it actually draws significantly more because of the continuous run. It bothers me as well that it is a thousand bucks for what in the 120 world would be 120. Though it does seem that they appear to be very reliable.
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