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post #11 of 24 Old 09-03-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Watertight blind bolts?

Brilliant!

Graham

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Originally Posted by knuterikt View Post
Instead of using a pole you could thread a thin line through one hole front to back, diagonally across the back side of the plate and back to front.

use an fish tape to pull both ends of the line through the holes in the boat, and pull the plate into place.

When you have inserted the two bolts in the free holes you can just pull the line out and insert the two remaining bolts.

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post #12 of 24 Old 09-03-2013
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Re: Watertight blind bolts?

I see no problem with a watertight access in the propane locker. One of those round things with an O-ring seal.

An alternative to a nut is to tap a thick backing plate.
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post #13 of 24 Old 09-03-2013
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Re: Watertight blind bolts?

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Originally Posted by JimsCAL View Post
I see no problem with a watertight access in the propane locker. One of those round things with an O-ring seal.
Propane locker's need to be gas-tight for a reason - rules or no rules.
How would you ensure the integrity of the access cover?
By testing..
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post #14 of 24 Old 09-03-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Watertight blind bolts?

Thanks guys,
I will try the string and backing plate and let you know how it goes.

Graham

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post #15 of 24 Old 09-03-2013
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Re: Watertight blind bolts?

I would cut an access panel and then just epoxy it back in. Its inside a locker.


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post #16 of 24 Old 09-03-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Watertight blind bolts?

Plan B.

Thanks,

Graham

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I would cut an access panel and then just epoxy it back in. Its inside a locker.

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post #17 of 24 Old 09-06-2013
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Re: Watertight blind bolts?

Could you use blind nuts on the plate?


Atlas brand blind threaded rivet nuts and studs

Blind Rivet Nuts - Bolt Products, Inc.

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post #18 of 24 Old 09-06-2013
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Re: Watertight blind bolts?

Manatee, those are really neat! I've never seen something like that before. I forgot to look at how thick of a sheet they could handle. Something like that into a pre-drilled backing plate would be pretty cool. I wonder how water-tight they would be, or how best to seal it. It seems like removal would be difficult for rebedding purposes.

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Re: Watertight blind bolts?

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Originally Posted by jimgo View Post
Manatee, those are really neat! I've never seen something like that before. I forgot to look at how thick of a sheet they could handle. Something like that into a pre-drilled backing plate would be pretty cool. I wonder how water-tight they would be, or how best to seal it. It seems like removal would be difficult for rebedding purposes.
Jim,

You might not want to remove them, or upset them either. Sometimes you make them a permenent part of the project. Use these instead of tapping holes in a plate, for example. It depends on the project. When I was using them to make custom wheelchair gear, I didn't always use them according to maker's directions. (Sometimes I put them on 'backwards' to get a particular assembly to work.) I think you could bed them with butyl or epoxy. In a water environment it would be important to match metals: stainless bolts == stainless nuts. I'd Loktite the bolts in any location subject to vibration, or hard to inspect. Once you have them, you can find all kinds of things to use them for. We used to order kits with different sizes, sort of like a pop-rivet kit. Try them, you'll like them.

Gary
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post #20 of 24 Old 09-07-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Watertight blind bolts?

Thanks Manatee,
I had not come across these before, or at least I did not know what they were when I did..... I would still need to get the plate into place but that would be relatively easy. There are plenty of stainless ones available and most of the waterproofing effort needs to be on the outside.

Graham

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Jim,

You might not want to remove them, or upset them either. Sometimes you make them a permenent part of the project. Use these instead of tapping holes in a plate, for example. It depends on the project. When I was using them to make custom wheelchair gear, I didn't always use them according to maker's directions. (Sometimes I put them on 'backwards' to get a particular assembly to work.) I think you could bed them with butyl or epoxy. In a water environment it would be important to match metals: stainless bolts == stainless nuts. I'd Loktite the bolts in any location subject to vibration, or hard to inspect. Once you have them, you can find all kinds of things to use them for. We used to order kits with different sizes, sort of like a pop-rivet kit. Try them, you'll like them.

Gary

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