Diagram for upgrades - will they work? - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest Forums > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #1  
Old 09-15-2013
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
juddgefizzy is on a distinguished road
Diagram for upgrades - will they work?

Hey all, I've been working on some ideas for upgrades for next year for my Precision 165. We get a lot of light air where I'm at, so the main idea is to add hardware to support a genoa. Also, I'm looking to add some nice-to-haves to make the boat a little more single-handed friendly. This includes running the halyards back to the cockpit, and a lazy jack to douse the genoa, and adding slugs to the main to make it easier to hoist.

I'm completely new to hardware modification so I've been drawing out my ideas to hopefully fine tune everything before actually drilling any holes. I've pieced this together from photos and measurements, it's not quite accurate, but close enough to hopefully get the idea.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1g2p7rwguj...cision-165.pdf

I'd appreciate any suggestions!
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 09-15-2013
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Posts: 1,953
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 23 Posts
Rep Power: 4
MarkSF is on a distinguished road
Re: Diagram for upgrades - will they work?

If you can reduce the angle formed by the deck organisers on the halyards, that would reduce the load on the organisers. It looks like 90 degrees might be necessary to avoid the hatch slides, though.

What about reefing lines for the main? I find it rather useful to have the boomvang brought back to the cockpit too.
__________________
1984 Bristol 31.1
Alameda, California, USA
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
The Following User Says Thank You to MarkSF For This Useful Post:
juddgefizzy (09-15-2013)
  #3  
Old 09-15-2013
Alex W's Avatar
always busy with sailing
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,774
Thanks: 2
Thanked 90 Times in 86 Posts
Rep Power: 2
Alex W is on a distinguished road
Re: Diagram for upgrades - will they work?

Look at some of the tricks used on dinghies to get good halyard tension without a winch. You certainly shouldn't need two cabin top winches on a boat this size, a single one that can handle both halyards is good enough.

The first thing that I'd add is something that allows you to tie off the tiller so that you can comfortably handle the sails without being stuck in the cockpit. Then you can keep the boat rigged more simply. A "Tiller Tamer" is the brand name for one of these devices, but a clove hitch around the tiller and going to two cleats works fine too.

I'd try the genoa without a lazy jack first, I bet you'll find it easy enough to handle.

MarkSF: On a boat this size a normal boom vang is easily accessed from the cockpit.

I can't tell what 4 lines you are running back. Each line run back to the cockpit costs at least $100 in hardware, so just do the essentials.
__________________
boats that I sail on regularly: Pearson 28-2, Rondar 505, Yankee 30, Blanchard Junior
Seattle, WA
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 09-15-2013
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
juddgefizzy is on a distinguished road
Re: Diagram for upgrades - will they work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkSF View Post
If you can reduce the angle formed by the deck organisers on the halyards, that would reduce the load on the organisers. It looks like 90 degrees might be necessary to avoid the hatch slides, though.

What about reefing lines for the main? I find it rather useful to have the boomvang brought back to the cockpit too.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll see if I can re-position the organizers somehow, that's a good point. I do have reefing lines currently, but they're pretty bare-bones. How would you run the vang back?
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #5  
Old 09-15-2013
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
juddgefizzy is on a distinguished road
Re: Diagram for upgrades - will they work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex W View Post
Look at some of the tricks used on dinghies to get good halyard tension without a winch. You certainly shouldn't need two cabin top winches on a boat this size, a single one that can handle both halyards is good enough.
Is there something specific you would recommend? Maybe just a 4:1 block setup or something like that?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex W View Post
The first thing that I'd add is something that allows you to tie off the tiller so that you can comfortably handle the sails without being stuck in the cockpit. Then you can keep the boat rigged more simply. A "Tiller Tamer" is the brand name for one of these devices, but a clove hitch around the tiller and going to two cleats works fine too.
I've been using a 6' bungie wrapped around the tiller and hooked on each rear mooring cleat. Not the most sophisticated, but it has helped. I also have an extension on it to do the "between the knees" towards the front of the cockpit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex W View Post
I'd try the genoa without a lazy jack first, I bet you'll find it easy enough to handle.
Cool, yeah, maybe that's a nice-to-have later if it's a little unwieldy. This won't be a furling genoa so the thought here was to use it as a emergency "oh crap" tool if a gust blows in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex W View Post
I can't tell what 4 lines you are running back. Each line run back to the cockpit costs at least $100 in hardware, so just do the essentials.
My thought here was to plan ahead for a possible spinnaker in the future, so if I was making the investment and doing the work, sort of a do it all at once kind of thing. But you're right, I could really do one side at a time and build on it later.

Thanks for the feedback!
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #6  
Old 09-15-2013
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Posts: 1,953
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 23 Posts
Rep Power: 4
MarkSF is on a distinguished road
Re: Diagram for upgrades - will they work?

The vang is routed just like the halyards in your diagram
- to a block at the mast base, then back to the cockpit. I had to remove the cleat from the vang assembly.
__________________
1984 Bristol 31.1
Alameda, California, USA
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #7  
Old 09-15-2013
Alex W's Avatar
always busy with sailing
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,774
Thanks: 2
Thanked 90 Times in 86 Posts
Rep Power: 2
Alex W is on a distinguished road
Re: Diagram for upgrades - will they work?

The primary dinghy that I've sailed is a Lightning (though that shall soon change, I bought a used 5o5 recently with a friend). On the Lightning the halyard is raised by hand, then another line links into a loop on the halyard and uses a 4:1 block and tackle to tension. A cunningham basically works the same way.

I'd put a downhaul on the genoa before messing with lazy jacks. That is a line that goes through every other hank and allows you to pull the sail down to the deck immediately.

You'll likely find that you don't benefit from a winch on a spinnaker halyard (high luff tension isn't a big concern there), so a spinnaker halyard can just go to a cam cleat.

MarkSF: My vang is also routed that way, but only because my boat has a dodger. It's completely unnecessary on a boat without one (especially a boat of this size), a boom or mast base fiddle block with cleat is easy to access.
__________________
boats that I sail on regularly: Pearson 28-2, Rondar 505, Yankee 30, Blanchard Junior
Seattle, WA
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #8  
Old 09-15-2013
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Posts: 1,953
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 23 Posts
Rep Power: 4
MarkSF is on a distinguished road
Re: Diagram for upgrades - will they work?

I agree that if you can reach the vang from the cockpit INCLUDING when heading downwind, there's no need to bring it back. However if you can't, it certainly is necessary to bring it back, as the ability to adjust it quickly, in a gust, without putting yourself in danger, is an essential safety feature, IMHO.

I know sailors who have it long enough to reach the helm, and have a cam cleat, so they can release it quickly.
__________________
1984 Bristol 31.1
Alameda, California, USA
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electrical Upgrades efiste Electrical Systems 17 09-17-2012 06:12 PM
VAT free in the EU. What about upgrades? myocean General Discussion (sailing related) 0 05-19-2012 02:39 PM
Tartan 31 upgrades DanBR Tartan 3 08-07-2011 11:14 AM
Zeneth Carburator upgrades???? sailnaway Gear & Maintenance 0 12-05-2004 05:07 AM
Mirage 29 upgrades Cava Gear & Maintenance 2 08-15-2001 07:18 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:51 AM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012