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  • 2 Post By Minnewaska
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  #1  
Old 10-03-2013
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Old good teak deck

I boarded a Warwick Cardinal 46 a few days ago. Didn't get the year but I know it is over 20 years old.

The teak deck looked perfect. It was old style screwed and plugged.

I didn't know a teak deck could last that long.
This guy really knows how to take care of a boat.

Have you ever seen this before?
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Old 10-04-2013
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Re: Old good teak deck

Getting the wood on a teak deck to last that long isn't really difficult. Keep it clean, even just scrubbing with salt water works well. Once a year, use a one part cleaner. Only use scotch brite pads, so bristles don't reach down and remove soft grain. If it is reasonably thick decking, a light sanding every 5 or 10 years will bring it back to near new.

Its the caulking in between and underneath that can be the devil and not always noticeable by eye, especially when dry. However, take a look at the same deck as rain is evaporating. You'll often notice board ends that seem saturated, which means water is getting through. The more screws, the more likely it will also find its way into the core material. I highly prefer glued decks.

Love teak decks, we have them. However, they are always a worry of some kind.
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Old 10-04-2013
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Re: Old good teak deck

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
However, take a look at the same deck as rain is evaporating. You'll often notice board ends that seem saturated, which means water is getting through.
Love teak decks, we have them. However, they are always a worry of some kind.
Interesting tip.
What do you do if the ends stay wet too long?
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Old 10-04-2013
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Re: Old good teak deck

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidpm View Post
Interesting tip.
What do you do if the ends stay wet too long?
Find the leak.

Just to be clear, I don't mean a few fibers that soak back from the top edge. I mean when you see an inch or two that stays wet, long after the remaining boards have dried. Water is underneath and wicking back. Usually due to loose caulking or water getting down through a plug.

You can make spot repairs, but they take a surgical approach. You have to dig out the loose caulk and clean it up well. Wait for the wood to dry completely. Mask off the edges and recaulk. Smooth with finger or putty knife and remove the masking before it dries. If a long piece, you should put some tape (made for the purpose) inside the groove on the deck, so the caulk sticks to the wood, more than the deck. Allows for movement, without separating from wood.

I've done these repairs, where you would never notice. I've done them where you would. Patience is the difference.

I only wish I could find teak deck systems caulk in small repair tubes. The caulk gun size hardens up before I use it all for repair.
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Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Old good teak deck

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidpm View Post
Interesting tip.
What do you do if the ends stay wet too long?
It's not just the plank ends - any bits of seam that stay wet when the rest of the planking has dried are failure points. That's the simplest way to check the state of a teak deck - hose it down and watch it dry.

Boring but effective.
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Re: Old good teak deck

Sloop is right. It's not always the plank end where the leak begins. However, I find that mid plank leaks often flow under the plank, as the caulk is not always adhered to the deck, and wick in the end.
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Old 10-14-2013
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Re: Old good teak deck

Uff...I am in the process of taking up my 28 year old teak due from just what you`re talking about. It pains my heart to do it, but it the right thing to do. My house deck is 4m x 2.3m and leaks because of all the screw holes. I`ve written a small thread asking the same thing (if it should be removed) and have been given the good advice of getting rid of the whole mess. With each board removal, I feel better for it and it seems my boat is thanking me for it too. The boards are just floating off. The screws are holding, but the glue is gone. Yes, I could re-glue it, but will not and find an attractive non-slip to replace it. I`m looking on the bright side though, I have teak for projects; over 100 ss screws for use on other projects; and alot of weight is gone. It is pretty though, but such is life sometimes.
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Last edited by Andrew65; 10-14-2013 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 10-14-2013
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Re: Old good teak deck

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew65 View Post
My house deck is 4m x 2.3m and leaks because of all the screw holes.
So you were getting leaks in the overhead coming from the screw holes?

Exactly how did it manifest itself?
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Old 10-14-2013
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Re: Old good teak deck

Exactly how did it manifest itself?[/QUOTE]

Neglect of the previous owners. I am the 6th owner and overtook the boat from a man who didn`t sail or work on it for 6 years. The chauking hadn`t been taken care of and adressed in time, so water seeped inbetween the boards.

I`m not against the beauty of teak. It is of course beautiful, but it`s time to give the old girl a facelift. It has to come off.
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Old 10-14-2013
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Re: Old good teak deck

I know this is a technical thread but I must mention this.

I had teak washboards in a cockpit of one of my earlier boats and I did a long voyage with her. Long story short, I had reason to stand in the cockpit and hand steer for several hours and I did so with bare feet. When I got to my destination I noticed "footprints" on the teak where I had been standing as if damp, but not.

All of the research that I have done indicates that the teak had leached the natural oils from my feet causing the "damp stain"and ever since then I have suffered with varying degrees of psoriasis on my feet that comes and goes - never ever had it before, can't fully get rid of it now.

Now, because I am always barefoot on my boat, I will not have teak on the floor anywhere in/on a boat that I own. It's real pretty but I'm real nervous.

Just for interest . . . .
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