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  #11  
Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

Make my teak grey and as little as possible. Some of you have applied six coats, others 14, while I applied none.
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

I have seen weathered teak on another boat like mine and the coaming looked terrible with splits and rough/lifting surface. No thanks. I'd rather do a little maintenance every couple of years, than have to have it replaced for lack of upkeep. When the covers are made this winter I won't need to re-coat but once every 5 years or more. Teak decks should never be finished and for safety I did not finish the hatch cover but now I regret that decision, the teak is heavily worn. It will be easier to replace the wood than repair it to apply a finish at this point.
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Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

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Originally Posted by KeelHaulin View Post
Your math is also incorrect. When you put down a base coat of natural teak you apply a minimum of 3 coats IIRC. If you want to clear coat for more durability you put two coats over that so its 5 coats initially, same as varnish. The 18month to two year maintenance coat can be a single coat. I usually put two thinner coats on instead of one, the clear flows better and is more workable with a little bit of thinning. Everything I've read says that varnish needs re coating every six months unless you are at a high latitude. I get two years out of Cetol here in San Francisco, you might get one year out of varnish here but I don't know. I've seen many slightly neglected varnish jobs suddenly start peeling at my marina; not the case with cetol if you heed the warning signs (dull finish, some light surface checking).

I'd say in 8 years I have about 12 coats total including base coat, but only had to re-coat 4 times instead of 8, and prepping is most of the work.
Keel, I don't disagree with you that no matter what you use, prep before coating is the key.

Okay, so my math is wrong...based on the math you gave me. NOW you say that you aren't doing "3-4 thin coats of natural teak beneath 2-3 coats of gloss " every " 18 months " now it is only 2 coats every 18 months.

Varnish takes 2 coats every 12 months. So I see a 50% maintenance time savings.

If you think "5 coats initially" is "the same as varnish", I understand why you think varnish isn't durable, and needs to be redone every 6 months. Varnish is only the most durable and beautiful finish available, IF you don't cut corners.


That is why Cetol was invented.

The teak companionway trim (beside the drink holder on the port side of the companionway,hatch sliders and all of the cabin top hand rails were sanded and varnished in 2010. They are due for a recoat next spring. The door was built and varnished in 2011.



So, four years and three years respectively without needing refinishing. I can live with that level of maintenance.

I would expect I would have to do it twice as often in a lower latitude... in other words, every 2 years.

The only wood trim I touch up annually on our boat is the rubrail, because it gets, er... rubbed.

So, to recap, two coats on the rubrail every year, two coats on the rest of the wood every 4 years.

You are cetoling every 18 months to 2 years.

So, hey, it looks like i was fudging the math as well, because i am not having to refinish ALL of my brightwork every year. just 50% of it.


Keel I am not sure what books you have been reading that condemn varnish to a lifespan of only six months. Casey says 3-5 years for spar varnish, Interlux says 4 years, CLC says 3 years.
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

Sorry BL but I disagree on the statement that Cetol was developed to "cut corners". It was develoed to be more durable than varnish. If you improve durability you reduce the need for maintenance, that's that's the pay off. Everything I have read says that varnish needs to be maintained on a six month schedule; especially so in the tropics. I've seen beautiful varnish on one of the teak laden boats at my marina, except that the guy spent every minute of his spare time re-painting it. He'd get to the stern end, 2-3 months would go by and then the blue tape would appear again at the bow. The boat never left the slip (maybe once-twice per year).

similarly cetol does not require as much maintenance if it is not getting direct sun. My dropboards and trim around the companionway need less maintenance also, and they are not beneath a dodger. Just being on a vertical surface and oriented north-south gives enough sun evasion.
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

Maintenance aside, I honestly can not see that much difference between an amateur application of Cetol natural teak and an amateur application varnish even if the varnish is applied correctly. It just looks like a different band of varnish. No one at our marina that has seen our teak has guessed it was Cetol, and I put it on with the $0.75 brushes from home depot. Ours has been roasting away in the florida sun for 2 years and is showing no sings of quitting any time soon. We have acres of teak; it takes a full quart and a good half of a day for one coat. Its hard to see from the crappy cellphone pic but all of the ribboning shimmers in the light, Cetol does not obscure it al all.


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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

I bought my boat with Cetol on it and quickly learned to hate it. It peels and flakes when it gives up and the only fix is to fully remove and start over.

I like varnish and did my cockpit table with it. My main objection to varnish is the 24 hr dry time between coats. Between schedules and weather, that makes it very impractical to do on the boat. The table could be brought home.

I like Bristol Finish for other brightwork on the boat. It's two part and dries enough to recoat inside an hour, so you can apply all 4 to 5 initial coats on the same day. Serious advantage. I think the finish looks the closest to varnish as well.
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

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Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
I bought my boat with Cetol on it and quickly learned to hate it. It peels and flakes when it gives up and the only fix is to fully remove and start over.
Varnish doesn't do the same if let go?
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

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Varnish doesn't do the same if let go?
Varnish will blister, but seems to stay a bit more plyable. Granted, varnish is very hard to repair, but that's why I use Bristol Finish elsewhere. Cetol got hard and brittle and flakey and horrible. I swear I still find cetol dust in little nooks and crannies and I've had it fully removed for three years.
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

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Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post

I like varnish and did my cockpit table with it. My main objection to varnish is the 24 hr dry time between coats. Between schedules and weather, that makes it very impractical to do on the boat.
Most varnishes can be hot-coated, (er, more like lukewarm coated) inside the recommended drying time. I do a coat in the morning after the dew has lifted (if working outside) and a coat before dusk. This way 8 coats can be laid on in four days on stripped brightwork. annual 2 coat maintenance coating can be done in a day.
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

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Originally Posted by KeelHaulin View Post
similarly cetol does not require as much maintenance if it is not getting direct sun. My dropboards and trim around the companionway need less maintenance also, and they are not beneath a dodger. Just being on a vertical surface and oriented north-south gives enough sun evasion.
You're abosoutely correct- the trim pictured is under dodger....except for the six months of the year when the dodger is stowed away and it is exposed to snow and rain and sun and sub-zero temperatures.
and the wood that isn't covered isn't in need of maintenance any earlier than that which is dodger protected.


I agree, one can end up chasing brightwork maintenance, and varnishing a peeling ugly finish every year... and it is inevitably because the sanded surface wasn't wiped down before initial coating, there wasn't a full buildup of coats the first time the bare wood was coated, or the first coats were imporoperly thinned, hindering full saturation.

More work up front means less work later.
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