Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 47 Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

Hey StormBay , I really like your Cetol job with the natural . Makes me wish I started with the natural , as I use the Cetol light . And yes it's orange . I think I'm going to buy a can of the natural, thanks to your nice pics. Thanks!
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post #22 of 47 Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

LOL- Cetol recommends recoating annually:

http://www.yachtpaint.com/Literature...rine-guide.pdf

It's 5 o'clock somewhere:


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post #23 of 47 Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

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Maintenance aside, I honestly can not see that much difference between an amateur application of Cetol natural teak and an amateur application varnish even if the varnish is applied correctly. It just looks like a different band of varnish. No one at our marina that has seen our teak has guessed it was Cetol, and I put it on with the $0.75 brushes from home depot. Ours has been roasting away in the florida sun for 2 years and is showing no sings of quitting any time soon. We have acres of teak; it takes a full quart and a good half of a day for one coat. Its hard to see from the crappy cellphone pic but all of the ribboning shimmers in the light, Cetol does not obscure it al all.


Looks great.
How many coats?

It's 5 o'clock somewhere:


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post #24 of 47 Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

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Looks great.
How many coats?
3 initial coats of natural teak followed by 1 maintenance coat of gloss every 7 to 10 months ( I aim for every 6 months as the sun down hear is brutal, but I haven't been on schedule yet) so 6 coats total in 2 years. The gloss is what really makes it pop compared to the semi matt finish of the plain natural teak.

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post #25 of 47 Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

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that's why I use Bristol Finish elsewhere. Cetol got hard and brittle and flakey and horrible. I swear I still find cetol dust in little nooks and crannies and I've had it fully removed for three years.
I also think bristol finish looks great and it should last a long time if done right, however don't expect it to come off any easer than Cetol if you ever have to refinish. removing-bristol-finish-from-teak-

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post #26 of 47 Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

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Originally Posted by Markwesti View Post
Hey StormBay , I really like your Cetol job with the natural . Makes me wish I started with the natural , as I use the Cetol light . And yes it's orange . I think I'm going to buy a can of the natural, thanks to your nice pics. Thanks!
Thanks! The natural teak is defiantly a better color compared to the older formulas.

Yu & Frank

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post #27 of 47 Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

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I also think bristol finish looks great and it should last a long time if done right, however don't expect it to come off any easer than Cetol if you ever have to refinish. removing-bristol-finish-from-teak-
Yup, stripping brightwork isn't fun. However, I find Bristol Finish will knock down with 60 grit and then finished with 100. If you want to try to remove a coating that is nuclear proof, try to sand Interlux Perfection Plus. Hard as nails. This two part coating is incredibly hard, but is also so toxic when applied, you may not live long enough to need to remove it.

That link tells a story of it failing. Having tons of experience with this, I will attest that any coating failure is always pilot error. I've sworn it wasn't me at times, until I finally figure out what I was doing wrong.
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post #28 of 47 Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

Bristol finish doesn't like sharp corners or edges.

It's 5 o'clock somewhere:


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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

Nothing likes an edge that water might get under. Its the number 1 cause of brightwork failure. I can't say I've notice BF any tougher than any other finish on sharp corners. None are great.
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post #30 of 47 Old 10-06-2013
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Re: Interlux Schooner vs. Sikkens Cetol

The only threads more entertaining than varnish are about anchors.

I will not claim one is better than the other... they have different merits; choose your medicine. Varnish (generally) requires more coats, sanding between coats, is finicky to apply and needs more frequent attention... but it does look better. Cetol takes less work (no sanding between coats is BIG), is more forgiving to apply and generally more durable but does not match varnish for lustre. [I cite several Practical Sailor studies for claims that Cetol is more durable.]

Having used varnish on a previous boat, I do believe it is a fair statement that Cetol may be an aesthetic compromise but takes WAYYY less time to apply and maintain.
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