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post #1 of 7 Old 10-21-2013 Thread Starter
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Electrical wiring

Hi
first post
need some advise re rewiring my Cavalier 32
I have just removed the mast to repair,replace all the standing rigging
all good but for wiring for lights and vhf,wind instruments,which now exit out of base of mast ,about 1 foot above bilge.
Unable to get wires thru cabin top,so thinking of running under sole\above bilge
vulnerable but cant see another option
plan to use waterproof flexible conduit(is there such stuff?)
Ideas\others experience please
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post #2 of 7 Old 10-21-2013
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Re: Electrical wiring

best way is to use heat shrink covered crimp connectors on each wire and mount the wires so the wires connector stay near the top of the bilge in air so they will be dry. wrapping just holds moisture between the wires and causes more problems. waterproof conduit will get moisture inside and cause problems. I know you are thinking that they would be waterproof. but it is a boat and there is nothing that is water proof on a boat. mine have been this way for 25 years and no problems. connectors get replaced every time the mast is re stepped.

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Re: Electrical wiring

Where do they go now? Wires in the bilge aren't ideal, but its done all the time. Continuous lengths of wire under the sole are best, with connectors inside a box. Be sure you leave plenty of looped wire to be able to cut these connectors and reinstall new ones over time. If you can run the wires out of the mast to a spot that is high and dry for the connections, then down to the bilge, all the better.

Your profile doesn't say where you are. Be sure to study up on electrical codes. 12v electrical fires are the number one cause of boat fires in the US. DIY is most likely the reason.


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post #4 of 7 Old 10-21-2013
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Re: Electrical wiring

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Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
Where do they go now? Wires in the bilge aren't ideal, but its done all the time. Continuous lengths of wire under the sole are best, with connectors inside a box. Be sure you leave plenty of looped wire to be able to cut these connectors and reinstall new ones over time. If you can run the wires out of the mast to a spot that is high and dry for the connections, then down to the bilge, all the better.

Your profile doesn't say where you are. Be sure to study up on electrical codes. 12v electrical fires are the number one cause of boat fires in the US. DIY is most likely the reason.
Here's how Bristol did it, and it's lasted 30 years now. There is a screw terminal block mounted just under the floor where it stays (mostly) dry. The cables that go up the mast then need simple ring crimps on the end. When you next remove the mast, no need to cut any wires, simply undo the screws.

The antenna cable is terminated there too, and there is an inline connector to a separate cable that runs to the radio. I put self-amalgamating tape over the whole connection and so far, also no trouble.

Bristol 31.1, San Francisco Bay
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post #5 of 7 Old 10-21-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Electrical wiring

Thanks
Great to have the advice
Will use junction box as high as possible,near mast,on bulkhead,carefully sealing ends with shrink wrap,then running continuous lengths thru bilge,held as high as possible with cable ties.
Non conduit perhaps except to prevent chafe at critical spots
Easy to say
Now to get on with it!
Summer is on the way here in Victoria,australia
Hope to get her back in water soon
Thanks again
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post #6 of 7 Old 10-22-2013
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Re: Electrical wiring

Any wiring I have had to run in the bildge area I have made a bilge hose conduit specificall for it. It stays dry that way and I also have a messager line shouldI need to pull another line through at a future date. I used 1" bildge hose because of its larger diameter.

The suggestion for the junction box in a dry space is a good idea. Our mast wires come out of the masthigh in the cabin and are run to a junction box under the headliner


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post #7 of 7 Old 10-22-2013
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Re: Electrical wiring

The issue is getting the mast through the hole in the cabin top. Disconnect the wires at some point outside of the mast. Hoist your mast 18". One at a time stuff the wires into the hole in the side of the mast and pull them out of the mast butt. When no wires are sticking through the side wall of the mast, finish hoisting the mast through the deck.

BTW, you may wish to pass a line through the hole in the side of the mast as soon as the butt clears the deck. The line helps control the movement of the mast while you're getting it down
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