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Preparing Cape Dory Typhoon for deck paint

4K views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  svHyLyte 
#1 ·
Ahoy,

The previous owner used Petit EasyPoxy but after 4 years in the Georgia sun it has started to peel.

I am looking for advice on how to prepare the deck for new paint and should I use Petit or is there another brand that is better.

I realize that surface preparation is important to a successful finish.

I hope the attached photos help with your recommendations.
 

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#2 ·
Could just be the surface prep was bad, not primed, over coated to quickly, I don't think paint is supposed to peel like that.

It's kind of a bummer because I was thinking about using Petite EZPoxy on my boat next year. It will be interesting to see what others have to say.
 
#4 ·
Yeah, it shouldn't have peeled.

So, you're back to square one getting that deck into shape. If you don't already own it, you should get Don Casey's This Old Boat book. It'll take you through the process. I think the previous owner of your boat has proved that everything has to be done right for a successful finish.

It's all about the prep. Can't stress too much the importance of a first rate prep job if you want good results. The paint will not hide surface flaws. That's where the great majority of your time will be spent. Recommend you use a 2 part coating to get the best results, especially if you want it to hold up under the Florida sun. Yeah, the 2 part costs more, and it's marginally more difficult to do, but the prep's pretty much the same for either coating.

Also, can't overstate going with a good instruction, like the Casey book if you want good results.
 
#5 · (Edited)
In the above post Siamese recommended 2 part coating. Well, Epoxy is 2 part. What I think he meant was 2 part Urethane, like an automotive finish. Check out NAPA Auto Parts for a color chart.
Prep involves a complete sanding with 220 sandpaper.
Then patch and fill and feather the surface.
Follow that with a thorough acetone wash.
Avoid dust. Have Pro spray paint.
Dick

BTW, check out www.capedorydotorg.
 
#6 ·
Greetings everyone and thank you.

I have Don Casey's book and will read the section on surface preparation as well online resources.

Concerning sanding, hand sanding with a block okay?

Any recommendations on paint brand? Interlux? Awlgrip? Petit? Kewigrip?

Again, thank you for your help.
 
#8 ·
Usually GRP decks have an antislip pattern, surface is unintentionally very uneven. Sanding with a block will then have to take that down. Huge job. You would need a maschine to do that.
Pity to take away the anti-slip structure as well.

An alternative is to sand somewhat, to remove the highest peaks in the antislip pattern. Then sand with ... sand, or something similar, and a brush. The rugg the surface in the valleys in the anti-slip pattern, without making everyting even.

When you fell enough is enough, then remove all dust. Vaccum clean, wash with a detergent and lots of water.
Apply generous amounts of aceton or other similar strong solvent. To remove all dirt and oxide and whatever could be left.

Paint with first a primer and then some other paint. Imortant to use a complete paint system and not mix. 2-component uretans are very strong, but also very glossy - consider adding something that removes the glossy finish. Deck color: not too white, not too dark.

I have used Interdeck (Interlux 1-component paint with antislip). Has worked fine, much better than anticipiated. Intended just to last for 1-2 year, still fine after 5 years (OK, I do not have the Florida sun here). The advantage with such a simple paint system is that it is easy to apply a new layer when I feel for it. Anyhow, I agree with the recommendations for a 2-component paint system - much more durable.

It may be of importance for you to be able to get some more paint in the same color later on. From that aspect, Interlux is not the best choice.

/J
 
#9 ·
It might be wise/best to see about having the deck Soda blasted to get all of the old crap off without destroying the non-skid patterning. That, followed by a good wash-down/scrub, would leave the deck ready for painting. Frankly, I'd use Imron that is very durable and can be hand or spray applied and looks great when finished. We refinished our prior boat, a 1976 Cal 2-29, with the stuff in 1999/2000 and the product looked great and I am told by the subsequent owner that it still looks great.

FWIW...
 
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