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Mast base organizer?

5K views 15 replies 10 participants last post by  DelmarRey 
#1 ·
What Im looking for may not be available but I can hope cant I ?

What Im looking for is a base for deck step masts , and is dish like casting that has a series of holes around the outer ring of the dish for halyard block attachment .

What I have now is/are Schaefer turning blocks deck mounted that account for a total of 20 holes in the cabin top on top of that they are self tapped screwed , so this will be changed one way or another before uncovering in the spring ....

If I cant locate a mast base organizer I will prob either use 3/8" u bolts in the mast as low to the deck as possible and single blocks with Harken stand up springs so they dont fall on the deck when unloaded .

Tim
 
#2 ·
I too have Schaefer blocks but the half moon that already has the springs.

You might check with the manufacrue of your mast. They may have a mast base with and organizer flange.

On my vessel I built a 316 SS hourseshoe that fits around the mast step and mounted the blocks on that . It had 14 winches when I made the purchase. Now it''s down to 6. Every line runs back to the cockpit now . Much better for singlehandling

Here are a couple links to pictures. Hope this helps in your search and/or ideas.

http://cruisersforum.com/photopost/data/517/120mastbase6-med.JPG

http://cruisersforum.com/photopost/data/517/120deckorg2-med.JPG

http://cruisersforum.com/photopost/data/517/120deckorg1-med.JPG

................................_/)
 
#3 ·
Yes, you need to know the manufacturer of your mast to see what they offer for that purpose. That would beat having a custom fabrication done costwise. Two links to try are www.rigrite.com and www.riggingonly.com. Good luck.
 
#4 ·
I understand but I have no idea who built Seafarer Spars 25 yrs ago , what i was hoping is id find something in a boat graveyard that I could possibly modify to provide , If not as I say I will drill the mast low and use U Bolts and stand up spring individual blocks and scrap my present turning blocks , 20 is 20 too many holes in the deck , after beginning removing deck hardware in the fall I reduced the holes by 18 at that time , and another job is to shorten the worthless
sail tracks to a usable length , lets face it no one needs 8'' inner sheeting tracks ..........
Tim
 
#5 ·
Build a platform (actually two) for supporting as many turning blocks as you want.

Imagine two C shaped plateforms that stand about 1 1/2 inches off the deck placed around the mast (mast in the middle of the O made by the two C''s) Attach as many turning blocks as you want to the stainless platforms and then bolt the two platforms down with atotal of four bolts.

Sasha


P.S I can show you pictures if you wish
 
#6 ·
Re deck trackage. Would tweekers (Downhauls floating on the jib sheets to judiciously positioned deck blocks) answer your need? If the eye pads were ''inboard'' and ''outboard'' (inhaul & outhaul) you can trick the jib clew into thinking its fairlead was any place within a rectangle on deck. The higher the clew the longer the fore and aft dimmension of the rectangle. However, a fixed fairlead further aft would be required to provide a fair lead to the winch. It''s an economical and convienent way to position the jib clew for sail shaping.

FWIW, George
 
#7 ·
I had a similar issue with my former 25''trailerable. Added spinnaker gear, vang etc, but didn''t want to put more holes in the coachouse. Made my own out of stainless plate, large enough to fit under the mast base/tabernacle with full length tabs sticking out on all four sides. Worked very nicely, though should''ve used a thicker guage as there was some bending near the vang.

Go to www.dwyermast.com, check under "hardware" for "halyard organizer plates" for the basis of my idea.

http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates

You can do a cut & paste if that link doesn''t display correctly.

cheers,
jcm
 
#13 ·
Originally the halfmoon blocks were mounted to the deck with thru bolts. I wanted to add 1 extra block and rearrange them for organizers, so I had to fill all the holes and redrill.

After filling and fareing, I placed the blocks on deck where I wanted them and drew a line around them.

Took measurements and cut out a piece of SS plate the shape of a horseshoe, modified.
Then put the blocks back and marked where the holes go. Drilled the holes in the plate then transfered them thru the deck.

Also put another plate on the inside. After all the holes were drilled in the deck
I placed the inside plate on the underside and transfered the holes.

Then drilled all the holes in the deck overside and filled with epoxy/filler, let cure, then redrilled again using the upper plate.

Finished up the deck with paint, sealed the upper plate and holes with 3M 101. And that''s it.

It was a lot of work, but well worth it. It not only looks better but it''s stronger as well.............._/)
 
#16 ·
JCM,

I put mahogany risers under the organizers and clutches. Epoxied and fared in the corners with triangular strips with one side having a radius, sanded to a smooth radius and epoxied it all in, sanded again, filled any nicks with epoxy filler, sanded again and painted.

I raised the halyards up off the deck for two reasons! I don''t like that green stuff growing under the lines when not in use, a big problem here in the Pacific NW. And the organizers would have required some special geometry with the angle of the deck, the angle of the organizers combined with the exit height of the halfmoon blocks. Plus there''s less of an opportunity for the halyards to wear the deck paint.

The vessel is an old (79) Choate 40 IOR racer. The gelcoat has seen better days so paint is it''s outer coat now, making it easy to make modifications without worry.

Now, I just need to close in the cockpit and raise the winches. Then she''ll look like a Swan 40. Same hull design.
 
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